Attractions

Aside from visiting the local churches and people-watching from a bench at one of the several downtown parks, there's not very much of interest for tourists in Ibarra. The city's most popular attractions, San Antonio de Ibarra and Laguna Yahuarcocha , are just outside the city limits.

While the Iglesia de la Merced, Iglesia San Augustin, Iglesia Santo Domingo, and the Cathedral are all worth a quick visit, my favorite church in Ibarra is the Basílica de la Dolorosa, which is located several blocks south of downtown, on Calle Sucre. This somber stone-and-brick church features two high clock towers, several large stained-glass murals, and a bright neon sign over the ornately carved wooden alter reading OH, MADRE, DOLOROSA.

The local branch of the Museo del Banco Central de Ecuador (Ecuador Central Bank Museum; tel. 06/2644-087) has a respectable collection of Inca and pre-Inca relics. The museum is located at the corner of calles Sucre and Oviedo. It is open Monday through Saturday from 9am until 5pm. Admission is $1 (55p).

There's also a small museum of colonial-era religious art attached to the Iglesia Santo Domingo. The church features large carved wooden doors and fronts a small park with a statue of Simón Bolívar. The museum is open daily from 9am till noon, and from 2 to 6pm. Admission is 50¢ (30p). This church is located north of downtown, on calles Bolívar and Troya.

Those not staying at the Hotel Montecarlo , can use the pool, sauna, gym, and other facilities there for a daily fee of $3 (£1.65).

Tip: Try to catch a local match of pelota de guante, a popular game played with a soft ball and large circular leather paddles with large nails embedded in them. This is a team sport, played on a large field, whose rules can best be described as a rough blend of team tennis (without a net) and dodge ball. Ask around town and you should be able to find a game to watch, especially on Saturday afternoons, after the main market activity winds down.

San Antonio de Ibarra

Cedar wood is abundant in Imbabura province. Take a trip to the small town of San Antonio de Ibarra and you can see how local woodcarvers transform this raw wood into high art. The town is full of galleries selling wood figurines in almost every shape and size; all are beautifully hand-painted. Many are religious-themed, although there are plenty of artisans making secular decorative and functional pieces as well. The best stores are on the main street, 25 de Noviembre and along Calle Ramón Teanga, whose colonial-era charm has been restored. This cobblestone road now features brightly painted buildings, which are a mix of residential homes, tourist shops, galleries, and artisans' workshops. All along the street are broad brick sidewalks with iron, antique-style street lamps.

Tip: I recommend starting your tour of San Antonio de Ibarra near the church known locally as La Capilla del Barrio del Sur. This diminutive blue church is near the top of the restored section of Calle Ramón Teanga. Catty-corner to the church is Escultura Cisneros (tel. 06/2932-354), the workshop of Saul and Alfonso Cisneros, two of the more prominent local sculptors. From here, walk downhill for several blocks, stopping in at shops as they strike your fancy, before jogging over toward the town's central plaza and the main Avenue 25 de Noviembre. Heading out of town on this avenue, be sure to stop at the Asociación de Artesanos (tel. 06/2933-538). This large space exhibits works by a number of local artisans, and also has a large gallery area that often hosts traveling exhibitions. For a real treat, try calling on Alcides Montesdeoca (tel. 06/2932-106), a renowned maker of large Virgin Mary sculptures used in prominent Holy Week processions around the world. Alcides can usually be found at his home workshop, on Calle Bolívar 5-38.

Getting There -- San Antonio de Ibarra is located 5km (3 miles) south of Ibarra, just off the Pan-American Highway. Any bus from Ibarra to Quito or Otavalo will drop you off at the entrance to San Antonio de Ibarra, although it's 10 blocks or more uphill from here to the center of town, so be sure to hop on one of the similarly frequent direct buses to San Antonio proper. These leave roughly every 20 minutes from Ibarra's Terminal Terrestre throughout the day. The fare is 20¢ (10p). A taxi ride here should not cost over $3 (£1.65).

Laguna Yahuarcocha (Yahuarcocha Lake)

Located a few miles outside the city, this small lake is a popular local spot for picnics and small-boat outings, but to my mind it holds more interest as a historical site. The lake's name means "Blood Lake," in reference to a fierce 1495 battle in which Inca King Huayna Capac massacred thousands upon thousands of the local Cara people. The massacre was so intense that the lake allegedly turned red.

Getting There -- Laguna Yahuarcocha is located 3.2km (2 miles) north of Ibarra, just off the Pan-American Highway. Frequent buses leave Ibarra's main bus terminal for Yahuarcocha. The fare is 30¢ (20p). Alternatively, a taxi ride here should cost around $3 (£1.65).