Getting There

By Plane

If choice breeds confusion, you won't have much confusion getting to Iceland -- only two airlines fly there.

Icelandair (www.icelandair.com) flies to Reykjavík from Baltimore, Boston, New York (Apr-Oct only), Minneapolis, and Orlando in the USA, and Glasgow and London in the UK. From each destination, there's usually one flight a day -- overnight from North America, midmorning from the UK.

Icelandair doesn't have any codeshare agreements with US airlines, so you're responsible for getting yourself to an Icelandair gateway airport. Baltimore, heavily served by Southwest (www.southwest.com) is a big favorite of connecting passengers.

Icelandair is famous for its discount packages, combining airfare, hotels and sometimes tours. "Midweek Madness" is the cheapest, but as the name implies it requires a departure in the middle of the week. Cheap Icelandair fares from the US to Europe (or vice versa) can usually include a stop of up to seven days in Iceland at no extra charge.

In fact, sometimes it's cheaper to buy a ticket from the US to London with a stopover in Iceland than it is just to buy a ticket from the US to Reykjavík. If you have the time, see if you can save money by going to London for one day and turning around.

Call 800/223-5500 in the US and Canada for information and reservations; 0207 874 1000 in London, and 0141 889 3550 in Glasgow.

Iceland Express (www.icelandexpress.com) runs flights twice-daily from London and Copenhagen to Reykjavík for prices almost always lower than Icelandair's rates. They're no help for North America-based travelers -- a flight to London plus a flight on Iceland Express will almost always cost more than an Icelandair flight from the US -- but they're great for Europeans. Call them at +44 870 8500 737 in the UK.

Residents of Australia or New Zealand trying to get to Iceland should fly to London and book a ticket on Icelandair or Iceland Express from there.

Getting into Town from the Airport

The privately-run Flybus (www.re.is/home/flybus/) connects to all flights at Keflavik airport, shuttling you into Reykjavík in about 45 minutes for ISK 1100 (half price for kids 12-15; free for under-12s.) The Flybus will drop people off at major hotels in Reykjavík, but not at guesthouses. If you're heading for downtown, ask to be dropped off at the Hotel Borg. The Flybus picks people up for flights at major hotels and at the BSI bus terminal just south of downtown, about 2 1/2 hours before international flights.

The Flybus is pretty much the only affordable way to get into Reykjavík from the airport. You can also take a taxi, but expect it to cost $75-90.

Getting There By Ferry

Ferries operated by Smyril Line (www.smyril-line.is; tel. +354 570 8600; fax +354 552 9450) sail between May and early September, from Seyðisfjörður in western Iceland to Tórshavn in the Faroe Islands, and thence to Hanstholm, Denmark or to Lerwick, Shetland and Bergen, Norway. (You can pick up a P&O Scottish Ferry from Lerwick to Aberdeen, Scotland, or a weekly ferry run by Standfaraskip Landsins direct from Tórshavn to Aberdeen.) There's only one ferry on the route, making the trip from Iceland weekly. You can sleep in your car on the overnighter to Tórshavn, or stay in couchettes, 4-berth, 2-berth or deluxe cabins. Showers are available in all cabins.

Packages for the Independent Traveler

Before you start your search for the lowest airfare, you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package.

Both Icelandair and Iceland Express sell packages; Icelandair is by far the largest packager in Iceland. Icelandair's packages will inevitably land you in one of their two Reykjavík hotels, the (recommended) Nordica just outside the city center or the (not recommended) older Loftleiðir. Iceland Express packages come with rooms at a budget hotel such as the Atlantis. Another big packager for Iceland is Scantours (www.scantours.com; tel. 800/223-7226) -- they like to use the two institutional, but perfectly decent Radisson hotels in Reykjavík.

Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in national travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel & Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Package tours can vary by leaps and bounds. Some offer a better class of hotels than others. Some offer the same hotels for lower prices. Some offer flights on scheduled airlines, while others book charters. Some limit your choice of accommodations and travel days. You are often required to make a large payment up front. On the plus side, packages can save you money, offering group prices but allowing for independent travel. Some even let you to add on a few guided excursions or escorted day trips (also at prices lower than if you booked them yourself) without booking an entirely escorted tour.

Before you invest in a package tour, get some answers. Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. You'll also want to find out what type of room you get. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it; don't take whatever is thrown your way. Request a nonsmoking room, a quiet room, a room with a view, or whatever you fancy.

Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Within the US, Scantours (tel. 800/223-7226; www.scantours.com/escorted.htm) runs a comprehensive set of escorted tours to Iceland, all year around, lasting anywhere from two days to a week. Iceland Saga Travel (3 Freedom Square, Nantucket, MA 02554; tel. 866/423-7242 or 508-825-9292; fax 508-825-9933; www.icelandsagatravel.com) has a slew of itineraries from 5 to 14 days long. Icelandair Holidays (tel. 800/779-2899 x 2; www.icelandair.com) also sells various kinds of escorted tours.

Within Iceland, turn to Destination Iceland (Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavík; tel. +354 591 1020; fax +354 591 1050; www.dice.is), or This Is Iceland (Laugavegur 20, 101 Reykjavík; tel. +354 561 6010; www.this.is/iceland), which offers extensive tours up to two weeks long.

But in general, Iceland is such an easy country to enjoy that we advise against taking a long, guided tour. Rather, take advantage of the huge number of day tours based in Reykjavík, Akureyri, and smaller towns like Höfn. Use a BSÍ bus pass or Air Iceland tickets to shuttle between regions of the country.

Many people derive a certain ease and security from escorted trips. Escorted tours-whether by bus, motor coach, train, or boat-let travelers sit back and enjoy their trip without having to spend lots of time worrying about details. You know your costs up front, and there are few surprises. Escorted tours can take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle -- you don't have to sweat over the plotting and planning of a vacation schedule. Escorted tours are particularly convenient for people with limited mobility. They can also be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, an escorted tour often requires a big deposit up front, and lodging and dining choices are predetermined. You'll get little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure-plus they also often focus only on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on the lesser-known gems.

Before you invest in an escorted tour, ask about the cancellation policy: Is a deposit required? Can they cancel the trip if they don't get enough people? Do you get a refund if they cancel? If you cancel? How late can you cancel if you are unable to go? When do you pay in full? Note: If you choose an escorted tour, think strongly about purchasing trip-cancellation insurance, especially if the tour operator asks you to pay up frontYou'll also want to get a complete schedule of the trip to find out how much sightseeing is planned each day and whether enough time has been allotted for relaxing or wandering solo.

The size of the group is also important to know up front. Generally, the smaller the group, the more flexible the itinerary, and the less time you'll spend waiting for people to get on and off the bus. Find out the demographics of the group as well. What is the age range? What is the gender breakdown? Is this mostly a trip for couples or singles?

Discuss what is included in the price. You may have to pay for transportation to and from the airport. A box lunch may be included in an excursion, but drinks might cost extra. Tips may not be included. Find out if you will be charged if you decide to opt out of certain activities or meals.

Before you invest in a package tour, get some answers. Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. You'll also want to find out what type of room you get. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it; don't take whatever is thrown your way. Request a nonsmoking room, a quiet room, a room with a view, or whatever you fancy.

Finally, if you plan to travel alone, you'll need to know if a single supplement will be charged and if the company can match you up with a roommate.