Regions in Brief

The island has six tiny villages, originally established as parishes, and each has a church as its focal point. Some are stone churches that date from the days of the French regime, and with fewer than a dozen such churches left in all of Québec province, this is a particular point of pride for the islanders.

It's possible to do a circuit of Ile d'Orléans in a half-day, but you can justify a full day if you eat a good meal, visit a sugar shack, do a little gallery hopping, or just skip stones from the beach. If you're strapped for time, loop around as far as St-Jean, and then drive across the island on route du Mitan ("middle road"). You'll get to the bridge by turning left onto Route 368 west.

Ste-Pétronille

The first village reached on the recommended counterclockwise tour is Ste-Pétronille, only 3km (2 miles) from the bridge (take a right turn off the bridge).

When the British occupied the island in 1759, General James Wolfe had his headquarters here before launching his successful attack on Québec City. At the end of the 19th century, this parish was a top vacation destination for the Québécois.

The village is now best known for its Victorian inn, La Goéliche , and also claims North America's northernmost stand of red oaks, which dazzle in autumn. The houses were once the summer homes of wealthy English in the 1800s and the church dates from 1871. Even if you don't stay at the inn, drive down to the water's edge, where there's a small public area with benches and views of Québec City.

St-Laurent

From Ste-Pétronille, continue on Route 368, which is called chemin de Bout-de-l'Ile for a few minutes here. After 7km (4 1/3 miles), you'll arrive at St-Laurent, founded in 1679, once a boat-building center turning out ships that could carry up to 5,300 tons for Glasgow ship owners.

To learn about the town's maritime history, head down to the water and visit Le Parc Maritime de St-Laurent (tel. 418/828-9672), an active boatyard from 1908 to 1967. Before the bridge was built, islanders journeyed across the river to Québec City by boat from here. The maritime park incorporates the old Godbout Boatworks and offers demonstrations of the art of building flat-bottomed schooners. It's open daily from 10am to 6pm mid-June through early September.

St-Jean

St-Jean, 6km (3 3/4 miles) from St-Laurent, was home to sea captains. That might be why the houses in the village appear more luxurious than others on the island. The creamy-yellow "Scottish brick" (as it's called) in the façades of several of the homes was ballast in boats that came over from Europe. The village church was built in 1734, and the walled cemetery is the final resting place of many fishermen and seafarers.

For a sweet treat, keep your eyes out for cabanes à sucre, traditional "sugar shacks," where maple syrup is made and casual all-you-can-eat meals are available. One that is regularly in business is La Sucrerie Blouin, 2967 chemin Royal (tel. 418/829-2903; www.sucrerieblouin.com), run by a family of bakers who have lived on the island for 300 years. They offer demonstrations of the syrup-making equipment and explanations about the process that turns tree sap into syrup.

If you're pressed for time, pick up route du Mitan here. It crosses Ile d'Orléans to St-Famille on the west side of the island, back near the bridge. The road is marked with a small sign on the left just past the church in St-Jean. Even if you're continuing the full loop, you might want to make a short detour down the road to see the farmland and forest here. To continue the tour, return to St-Jean and proceed east on Route 368.

St-François

St-François is at the island's most northeastern tip. The 9km (5 2/3-mile) drive from St-Jean to St-François exposes vistas of the Laurentian Mountains off to the left on the island's northern and western shores.

Mont Ste-Anne can be seen on the opposite side of the river in the distance, its slopes scored by ski trails. The St. Lawrence River is 10 times wider here than when it flows past Québec City and can be viewed especially well from the town's observation tower, which you'll pass on your right; you can park here and climb for a view. Regrettably, the town's original church (1734) burned in 1988. It was replaced in 1992.

After you've looped around the island's northern edge, the road stops being Route 358 east and becomes Route 368 west.

Ste-Famille

Founded in 1661, Ste-Famille is the island's oldest parish; it's 8km (5 miles) from St-François. Across the road from the triple-spired church (1743) is the convent of Notre-Dame Congregation, founded in 1685 by Marguerite Bourgeoys, one of Montréal's prominent early citizens.

Maison de Nos Aïeux, 3907 chemin Royal (tel. 418/829-0330; www.fondationfrancoislamy.org), is a genealogy center with minimovies about some of the island's oldest families and information about the island's history. It's open mid-June until mid-August daily from 10am to 6pm, and costs C$3 (£1.50). Parc des Ancêtres, a riverside green space with picnic tables, is adjacent.

St-Pierre

When you reach St-Pierre, you're nearly back to where you started. Its central attraction is the island's oldest church (1717). Services are no longer held there, but a large handicraft shop in the back, behind the altar, was founded in 1695, making it even older than the church.

If you haven't stopped at any of the above orchards that beckoned, Bilodeau at 2200 chemin Royal (tel. 418/828-9316; www.cidreriebilodeau.qc.ca; daily 9am-5pm) makes a satisfying final stop. It produces some of Ile d'Orléans's regular ciders and cidre de glace, a sweet wine made from apples left on the trees until after the first frost. Visitors can partake of samples (try the hazelnut-and-apple-syrup mustard), guided facility tours, apple-picking (if you're there mid-Aug to mid-Oct), and a shop.

Buffet d'Orléans, 1025 Rte. Prévost (tel. 418/828-0013) just at the bridge, is an old-time diner where the waitresses wear white skirts and black aprons and the bread comes in plastic wrap. Try the tourtière maison, a homemade meat pie in a crust, served with two scoops of mashed potatoes and vegetables, for C$12 (£6), or cigare aux choux, cabbage rolls with the same side dishes, for C$11 (£5.50). It's open daily 7am to 9pm year-round, and until 11pm in summer.