Dining on Ilhabela is a casual and relaxed affair, and the seafood is some of the best in Brazil. Ilhabela's prawns are famous nationwide. In high season reservations are recommended.
One of the island's top restaurants, Restaurante Viana, Avenida Leonardo Reale, Viana, tel. 012/3896-1089, serves up the undisputed best casquinha de camarão (spiced shrimp served in a crab shell). Other acclaimed dishes include the robalo fish with seafood and a delicious vegetable-stuffed oven-roasted fish. Call to confirm opening hours in the off season. Closed Monday through Thursday during the months March to June and August to November.
For the prime patio in town head to Aeroilha, Praça da Bandeira 1, Centro (tel. 012/3896-1178), on the main dock overlooking the ocean and the mainland. The prawns here are among the best I have had in Brazil -- thick, juicy, and succulent, whether grilled, breaded, or sautéed.
A 15-minute drive south from Centro is Ilha Sul, Av. Riachuelo 287 (tel. 012/3894-9426), a casual restaurant that serves some of the best seafood on the island. The breaded squid (calamari) is outstanding, tender, and perfectly grilled. Main courses include everything maritime, from lobster to prawns to fish, all fresh, all excellently prepared. Reservations required on weekends and holidays.
Nova Iorque, Avenida Governador Mario Covas Junior, Frades (tel. 012/3894-1833), is the new toast of the town. Specializing in excellent and affordable seafood, the restaurant has two large decks that offer alfresco dining with prime views of Alcatrazes islands. Open 10am to 8:30pm on weekdays and until 10pm on Friday and Saturday. No credit cards.
More than just a bookstore, Ponta das Letras, Rua dr. Carvalho 146 (tel. 012/3896-2104), makes the best espresso for hundreds of miles around! The store, which has a great selection of English-language magazines as well as CDs and souvenirs, is open daily from 9am to 8pm.
