Ilhabela offers many options for those seeking sun and sea. The more civilized west side of the island has a string of easily accessible beaches. One of the liveliest is Praia do Curral, located about 12km (7 1/2 miles) south of the ferry terminal; it features great restaurants and bars with live music. Just north of Praia do Curral is Praia Grande, a lovely long beach, perfect for swimming and strolling. A nice small beach, Praia Feiticeira is about 5km (3 miles) south of the ferry terminal; access is through an old fazenda. The wild east side of the island is where the most beautiful beaches are to be found. Praia dos Castelhanos is long, wild, and completely undeveloped. Rising up from the beach, the mountains -- covered in untouched Atlantic rainforest -- provide a stunning backdrop. Access is by boat or over a bumpy rutted track -- four-wheel-drive definitely recommended. Praia do Bonete, on the extreme southern point of the island, is only accessible by boat or on foot. A few rustic bed-and-breakfasts provide comfortable accommodations for those who make the 15km (9-mile) hike to the small community of fishermen who make their home at this lovely remote beach.