Active Pursuits

Ireland is a satisfyingly wild place, where foxes and hares wander in and out of city limits, otters frolic in the rivers, seals bark on the beaches, and wildflowers blanket the countryside so thoroughly it looks like someone spilled the paint. It has spaces of extreme isolation -- in Donegal and County Mayo you can drive for long stretches on empty highways and walk for hours along a coastal headland without meeting another human. It can almost be unnerving. But you have to get out of the city to do it.

About a third of Ireland's 3.8 million residents live in Dublin and its sprawling suburbs -- and almost half its entire population lives within 97km (60 miles). Apart from a few other small cities, the remaining population spreads thinly across the rest of the island, putting very few demands on the environment. As a result, there are remarkably intact bird and wildlife habitats.

That's the way the locals like it -- they love the outdoors and spend as much of their time in it as possible. So what if it rains? That doesn't stop the Irish from golfing, hiking, fishing, and cycling. You're not made of sugar -- get outside.

A Bit of Adventure -- If you're looking for more from your Ireland trip than just a bit of golf or hiking, you might want to try one of the country's adventure centers. These lively, youthful facilities offer a range of guided activities -- from rappelling to kite surfing -- in some of the country's most remote and beautiful settings, along with accommodations, food, and all you need for a holiday with like-minded folk.

The Delphi Adventure Company, Leenane, County Galway (tel. 095/42208; www.delphimountainresort.com), is a popular option deep in the mountains of County Galway. There is almost nothing you can't do here; the resort offers courses in kayaking, windsurfing, and sailing, as well as mountaineering, rappelling, hiking, and pony trekking. Everything is reasonably priced, and the atmosphere is laid back and friendly.

Another option is the Little Killary Adventure Company, Leenane, County Galway (tel. 095/43411; www.killary.com) which will take you on Hobie Cat sailing trips, or guide you through an exploration of the countryside by kayak, water-skis, or on foot on hill and coastal walking tours, straight up on rock climbing expeditions, and more.

Golf

Golf is the single biggest sporting attraction in Ireland, with more than 200,000 visitors traveling here specifically to play. The Irish landscape and climate, like those of Scotland, seem almost custom-designed for scenic links, fair fairways, green greens, and dramatic traps -- and there is never a shortage of 19th holes. In short, Ireland is a place of golfing pilgrimage.

Best of all, golfing is not confined to those with an Olympian income. Membership fees do not require mortgages, and greens fees for walk-ins are often quite modest, especially on weekdays and at off-peak hours.

Golf Resources -- The Irish Tourist Board has a dedicated golf website with numerous contacts and links (no pun intended) at www.golf.ireland.ie.

A host of U.S. companies offer package golf tours. Among them are Golf International (tel. 800/833-1389 or 212/986-9176; www.golfinternational.com), and Wide World of Golf (tel. 800/214-4653; www.wideworldofgolf.com).

Horseback Riding

Ireland is a horse-loving country, with a plethora of stables and equestrian centers offering trail rides and instruction. The Association of Irish Riding Establishments (www.aire.ie) is the regulatory body that accredits stables, ensuring adequate safety standards and instructor competence. Riding prices range from €20 to €40 per hour; expect to pay €25 on average. A list of accredited stables throughout the country is available from the Irish Tourist Board.

Choose your trek or horse ride based on your interests and experience. Pony trekking caters primarily to beginners, and you don't need experience. Long-distance trail riding requires you to trot for extended periods, which can be exhausting (and painful) for a novice. Some horse-riding tours offer meals, and lodging as well as riding. Post-to-post trail riding allows a rider to stay at different lodgings each night, riding on trails all day.

Horseback-Riding Tip -- Always phone ahead to make sure any particular equestrian center is still offering rides. Many have discontinued this service in the past few years due to skyrocketing insurance costs.

Horseback Riding Resources -- The Irish Tourist Board has a dedicated horseback-riding website with numerous links and contacts at www.equestrian.ireland.ie.

Equestrian Holidays Ireland (www.ehi.ie) is a collection of riding centers around the country, each registered with the Association of Irish Riding Establishments, offering a wide variety of accommodations and holiday riding experiences. EHI properties include Dingle Horse Riding, Ballinaboula, Dingle, County Kerry (tel. 066/915-2199; www.dinglehorseriding.com), and Drummindoo Stud & Equestrian Centre, Knockranny, Westport, County Mayo (tel. 098/25616).

In Dublin, you can go trail riding through Phoenix Park with Ashtown Riding Stables (tel. 01/838-3807). They're in the village of Ashtown adjoining the park and only 10 minutes by car or bus (no. 37, 38, 39, or 70) from the city center. Among the other riding centers within easy reach of downtown Dublin are Calliaghstown Riding Centre, Calliaghstown, Rathcoole, County Dublin (tel. 01/458-8322), and Carrickmines Equestrian Centre, Glenamuck Road, Foxrock, Dublin 18 (tel. 01/295-5990). You can see the beaches of Connemara from horseback on a trek with the Cleggan Riding Centre, Cleggan, County Galway (tel. 095/44746; www.clegganridingcentre.com). The center offers beach and mountain treks, and the most popular is a 3-hour ride to Omey Island at low tide.

Hidden Trails (tel. 888/9-TRAILS [987-2457]; www.hiddentrails.com) offers 7-day guided riding tours in several regions in Ireland, including the Wicklow Mountains, West Cork, and Connemara. The tours are graded easy, moderate, or challenging, and include lodging and meals (breakfast, picnic lunch, and dinner).

Fishing

What makes Ireland such a great fishing destination? A coastline of more than 5,603km (3,472 miles), thousands of lakes and ponds, countless creeks, rills, streams, and rivers -- those certainly don't hurt. Ireland's temperate climate and low pollution also encourage a high fish population, and low human density has put little pressure on that. It all adds up to fairly ideal fishing conditions.

The sport of fishing -- referred to by the Irish as angling -- is a cherished tradition. Festivals and competitions celebrate the many forms of this sport; for dates and locations, contact the Irish Tourist Board; you have to sign up well in advance to participate in most of the competitions. Among the festivals are Killybegs International Sea Angling Festival in July, the Baltimore Deep Sea Angling Festival in August, and the Cobh International Deep Sea Angling Festival in September.

In the west and northwest, Killybegs is a center for sea angling, while Lough Corrib offers much to entice the freshwater angler. The Killarney area is a popular angling destination, as are the Blackwater River near Cork and Kinsale for sea angling. Also consider the Shannon River and its lakes.

Fishing Resources -- Fishing seasons are as follows: salmon, January 1 to September 30; brown trout, February 15 to October 12; sea trout, June 1 to September 30; coarse fishing and sea angling, all year. A license is required only for salmon and sea trout angling; the cost is €34 for a day, €48 for 21 days, or €128 annually. For all private salmon and sea trout fisheries, a permit is required in addition to the license, and it can be considerably more expensive. Prices vary greatly, from €10 to €200 per rod per day (depending on the venue and provider), although most permits run €30 to €40.

The Irish Tourist Board has websites dedicated to fishing at www.discoverireland.com/us/ireland-things-to-see-and-do/activities/fishing. A helpful brochure, Angling in Ireland, detailing what fish can be caught where, is available from the Angling Information Office at the Central Fisheries Board, Balnagowan House, Mobhi Boreen, Glasnevin, Dublin 9 (tel. 01/884-2600; fax 01/836-0060; www.cfb.ie). Another helpful resource, The Angler's Guide, is published by the Irish Tourist Board. Permits, licenses, and specific information can be obtained from local outfitters or the Central Fisheries Board.

Many hotels have exclusive access to lakes and ponds, and will rent boats, gear, and ghillies (fishing guides) to their guests. Nearly two dozen such hotels have formed the Great Fishing Houses of Ireland (www.irelandfishing.com). Examples include Adare Manor in Limerick; the Delphi Lodge in County Galway; and Newport House Hotel and Enniscoe House, both in Mayo.

In Northern Ireland, you must get a rod license from the Fisheries Conservancy Board, 1 Mahon Rd., Portadown, Craigavon, County Armagh (tel. 028/3833-4666; www.fcbni.com), or in the Derry area from the Foyle Carlingford Irish Lights Commission, 22 Victoria Rd., Derry BT47 2AB (tel. 028/7134-2100; www.loughs-agency.org). A permit may also be required; you can obtain information from local outfitters or the Department of Culture, Arts and Leisure, Interpoint Centre, York Street, Belfast BT4 3PW (tel. 028/9025-8825; www.dcalni.gov.uk). A rod license costs £4 to £24, depending on the license provider and duration of license; permits run upwards of £5 for 3 days or £15 for 14 days. You can find a wealth of information in An Information Guide to Game Fishing, available from any office of the Northern Ireland Tourist Board.

Kayaking

This sport has always been popular with the natives -- and no wonder, considering the island's 5,603km (3,472 miles) of coastline, plus its numerous lakes and rivers.

In particular, the coastline provides year-round superb sea-kayaking waters, some of which are remote, with spectacular scenery. In a sea kayak, the wonders of the Irish coast can be investigated up close. You'll find caves, tiny inlets, out-of-the-way cliffs, and reefs inhabited by abundant seabirds, colorful crustaceans, seals, and the occasional dolphin. Many islands are within easy reach of the mainland, and with experience and good conditions, a sea kayaker can reach any of Ireland's island outposts.

A number of adventure centers offer kayaking lessons, and a few schools are devoted solely to kayaking. For those new to the sport or unfamiliar with the Irish coast, a guided excursion is the best option.

Kayaking Resources -- For a rich source of information about kayaking in Ireland, visit the Irish Canoe Union website at www.canoe.ie.

Courses and day trips for all levels of experience are available from Deep Blue Sea Kayaking (tel. 01/276-0263; www.deepblueseakayaking.com) and Shearwater Sea Kayaking (tel. 086/836-8736 or 087/988-5658; www.shearwaterseakayaking.ie). Although kayaking is mainly a summer activity, the latter also runs special winter excursions to the Skerries and Lambay Island in Dublin Bay. Kayaking vacations are also available at Delphi Adventure Company, Leenane, County Galway (tel. 095/42208; www.delphimountainresort.com).

Diving

With visibility averaging 15m (49 ft.) and occasionally reaching 29m (95 ft.), and many wrecks to explore, the west coast of Ireland may be cold, but it's still a pretty good place for divers.

The Irish dive season generally starts in March and ends in October, although specific dates depend on your comfort zone. Outside these months, weather and ocean conditions could make jumping into the sea unappealing. The PADI open-water diver certification is the minimum requirement for all dives; most schools also offer introductory dives for novices.

The rocky coast of West Cork and Kerry is great for diving, with centers in Baltimore and Dingle. On the west coast, there are many great locations, one of which is the deep, sheltered Killary Harbour. Northern Ireland offers many interesting dives, with more than 400 named wrecks off the coast and many in the Irish Sea and in Belfast Lough.

Diving Resources -- The Irish Underwater Council (CFT, or Comhairle Fo-Thuinn), 78A Patrick St., Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin (tel. 01/284-4601; fax 01/284-4602; www.cft.ie), is an association of more than 70 Irish diving clubs. Its website lists information on diving and snorkeling, dive centers, and dive hotels (no pun intended) throughout the Republic and publishes the CFT Guide to Dive Sites and other information on exploring the Emerald Isle's emerald waters. The CFT operates under the aegis of the CMAS (Confédération Mondiale des Activités Subaquatiques), the world diving federation.

Sign up for certified level-one and level-two instruction and equipment rental for kayaking, sailing, and windsurfing at the Surfdock Centre, Grand Canal Dock Yard, Ringsend, Dublin 4 (tel. 01/668-3945; www.surfdock.ie). Dublin Bay is filled with sea life and old wrecks, making it ideal for cold-water diving. To try it out, get in touch with Oceantec Adventures in Dun Laoghaire (tel. 01/280-1083, or toll-free within Ireland 1800/272-822). It offers a five-star PADI diving school and arranges dive vacations on the west coast.

The UK Diving website, www.ukdiving.co.uk, features information on diving in the North, including a wreck database you can access either through a conventional listing or by pinpointing on a map.

Irish dive centers and schools include the National Diving School, Malahide Marina Village, County Dublin (tel. 01/845-2000; natdive@indigo.ie); Oceantec Adventures, Dun Laoghaire, County Dublin (tel. 01/280-1083); Baltimore Diving Centre, Baltimore, County Cork (tel./fax 028/20300; www.baltimorediving.com); and Scubadive West, Renvyle, County Galway (tel. 095/43922; fax 095/43923; www.scubadivewest.com).

Windsurfing

Windsurfing is increasingly popular in Ireland, and some spots play host to vast flotillas of colorful sails and wet-suited windsurfers when conditions are good. Some of the best locations are in remote areas of the west coast, and those spots are rarely crowded. Windsurfing schools with boards for rent can be found in most regions of the country, with the greatest concentration on the southeast and southwest coasts.

In Dublin the most popular spot is Dollymount Beach; Salthill, behind Dun Laoghaire Harbour, is another good choice. In the Southeast, try Brittas Bay (County Wicklow), Cahore (County Wexford), and Rosslare (County Wexford). Dunmore East (County Waterford), Dungarvan (County Waterford), and Cobh (County Cork) are good in the south. The most challenging waves and winds are in the west, at Brandon Bay on the Dingle Peninsula, Roundstone in Galway, Achill Island in Mayo, and Magheroarty and Rossnowlagh in Donegal.

Because even skilled windsurfers spend a sizable portion of their time in the water, the water quality is surely a concern. Ireland has 27 designated European Union Blue Flag beaches and marinas, and Northern Ireland has 12. To find a complete listing or to check out a particular beach in advance, go to www.blueflag.org.

Windsurfing Resources -- Equipment rental and lessons are widely available on Ireland's coasts and lakes. Try the following centers: the Surfdock Centre, Grand Canal Dock Yard, Ringsend, Dublin 4 (tel. 01/668-3945; www.surfdock.ie); the Dunmore East Adventure Centre, Dunmore East, County Waterford (tel. 051/383783; www.dunmoreadventure.com); the Oysterhaven Centre, Oysterhaven, Kinsale, County Cork (tel. 021/477-0738; www.oysterhaven.com); and, in the North, Craigavon Watersports Centre, 1 Lake Rd., County Armagh (tel. 028/3834-2669; www.craigavon.gov.uk/leisure/water_sports.asp).

If kite surfing is your thing, check out the website www.kitesurfing.ie. It offers advice on where to buy or rent boards, the best locations, and weather conditions, and it also hooks you up with other kite surfers.