Tips on Accommodations

Ireland offers a remarkable array of accommodations, some quite affordable and others outrageously lavish. There is something for everyone, from families on a budget to lovers on the splurge of a lifetime. Here's a sketch of what's out there.

Hotels & Guesthouses

Be Our Guest, a comprehensive guide to the hotels, country houses, castles, and inns of Ireland, is published by the Irish Hotel Federation and is available from the Irish Tourist Board. It's also online at www.irelandhotels.com, which is a particularly handy, searchable site, with options to sort hotels by feature (TV in all rooms, elevators, crèche [daycare/babysitting], and so on). Hotels and guesthouses, depending on their size and scope, offer a good deal more than a bed and a meal -- everything from nightclubs to children's playrooms to golf courses. Some were historic buildings in a former life and others have been elegant hotels from birth, but there are plenty that are nondescript. If you're traveling with a well-padded wallet, Ireland's Blue Book (www.irelands-blue-book.ie) is a collection of upscale manor house hotels and castles.

The governments of the Republic and of the North inspect and rate all approved hotels and guesthouses. In the Republic, hotels can aspire to five stars, but guesthouses can reach no higher than four. In the North, hotels receive one to four stars, and guesthouses are either grade A or grade B.

In this guide, however, we use our own system of zero to three stars for rating places to stay, based on quality of amenities, atmosphere, and the most elusive, overall value for money. Cost is only a factor inasmuch as it affects value. For example, an expensive hotel may rate only one star, while a moderately priced guesthouse rates two stars if it delivers an exceptional experience for the money.

Bed & Breakfasts

Throughout Ireland, in cities and countryside, a huge number of private homes are open to lodgers, by the night or longer. A warm bed and a substantial Irish breakfast can be expected, and other meals are negotiable. While most B&Bs are regulated and inspected by Tourism Quality Services (look for the shamrock seal of approval), approximately 12,000 premises are under no external supervision. Regulated or not, they are all different, as are your hosts. Note: Establishments without governmental supervision or approval are not necessarily inferior to those stamped with the green shamrock. Approval involves an annual fee, as well as specific restrictions that some proprietors prefer not to accept.

For a modest fee, the Irish Tourist Board will send you a detailed listing of roughly 2,000 approved B&Bs, complete with a color photo of each. Or, you can follow the recommendations in this book. Needless to say, you receive a personal touch when you stay in someone's home, and more often than not, this is a real bonus. For anyone on a budget who is touring the country and spending only a night or two in each location, B&Bs are often hard to beat.

In high season it's a good idea to make your reservation at least 24 hours in advance; your room will ordinarily be held until 6pm. In a moderately priced B&B, the average cost for a room with private bathroom is roughly €45 ($59) per person per night. Obviously, some B&Bs charge less than this, and some charge more. Note: More and more B&Bs accept credit cards, but many still do not -- ask in advance.

In the North, the Northern Ireland Tourist Board inspects each of its recommended B&Bs annually. Its Information Guide to Bed & Breakfast is available free from the NITB. The NITB also sells a useful comprehensive annual listing titled Where to Stay in Northern Ireland.

The Hidden Ireland

The Hidden Ireland is essentially a collection of very upscale B&Bs -- think Town & Country with a brogue. These are private houses offering visitors the opportunity to sample upscale B&Bs, in a style not usually experienced by the ordinary tourist. The properties include some of Ireland's oldest and grandest buildings, many of particular architectural merit and character. A B&B for two people generally runs €120 to €338 ($156-$439). To explore this option, contact The Hidden Ireland, P.O. Box 31, Westport, County Mayo (tel. 800/688-0299 in the U.S., or 01/662-7166; fax 01/662-7144; www.hidden-ireland.com).

Farmhouse Accommodations

Many of Ireland's small, family-run farms offer an attractive alternative to hotels and guesthouses, especially for families with small children. The Irish Farm Holidays Association (www.irishfarmholidays.com) produces an annual guide to farmhouse accommodations.

Self-Catering

If you want to stay awhile and establish a base, you might want to consider renting an apartment, town house, cottage, or castle. Self-catering is a huge business in Ireland, and the range of available accommodations is impressive. The minimum rental period is usually 1 week, although shorter periods are negotiable in the off season. Families and small groups often find self-catering works out to be less expensive than staying in hotels. In the high season, in both the Republic and the North, a cottage sleeping seven could cost anywhere from $350 to more than $2,000 per week. Both the Irish Tourist Board and the Northern Ireland Tourist Board prepare helpful annual guides to self-catering cottages.

Among the self-catering companies worth checking out are Trident Holiday Homes, 15 Irishtown Rd., Irishtown, Dublin 4 (tel. 01/668-3534; fax 01/660-6465; www.thh.ie). For alluring seaside properties in west County Cork, try Cashelfean Holiday Houses, Durrus, County Cork (tel. 027/62000; fax 027/62012; www.cashelfean.com). In the west of Ireland a selection of traditional Irish cottages, fully equipped to meet modern expectations, is offered by Rent an Irish Cottage PLC, 85 O'Connell St., Limerick, County Limerick (tel. 061/411109; fax 061/314821; www.rentacottage.ie). If you're interested in sampling the rural lifestyle, Irish Country Holidays, Discovery Centre, Rearcross, County Tipperary (tel. 067/27790; fax 067/27791; www.country-holidays.ie), has properties all over Ireland.

Finally, for self-catering in any of Northern Ireland's areas of outstanding natural beauty, there is one surefire recommendation: Rural Cottage Holidays Ltd., St. Anne's Court, 59 North St., Belfast BT1 1NB (tel. 028/9044-1535; fax 028/9044-1530; www.ruralcottageholidays.com).

Youth Hostels

Ordinarily, youth hostels are not included in this book. You should be aware, however, that some Irish hostels are broadening their scope and redesigning to attract travelers of all ages, as well as families. Many have private rooms and, although they cost a fraction of even a modest bed-and-breakfast, quite a few are attractive and in extraordinarily beautiful locations.

An Óige, the Irish Youth Hostel Association, 61 Mountjoy St., Dublin 7 (tel. 01/830-4555; fax 01/830-5808; www.irelandyha.org), runs dozens of exquisitely located hostels in rural Ireland. Most are in drop-dead-gorgeous spots of natural beauty and housed in buildings of real character. Before you dismiss this option, explore the website and see if you can believe the views and the prices.

In the North, YHANI (Youth Hostels Association of Northern Ireland), 22-32 Donegall Rd., Belfast BT12 5JN (tel. 028/9032-4733; fax 028/9043-9699; www.hini.org.uk), runs similar hostels of real character.

Bottom Line on Beds

Rates -- Room charges quoted in this guide include 13.5% government tax (Value Added Tax or VAT) in the Republic of Ireland and 17.5% VAT in Northern Ireland. They do not (unless otherwise noted) include service charges, which are usually between 10% and 15%. Most hotels and guesthouses automatically add the service charge onto your final bill, although in recent years many family-run or limited-service places have begun the practice of not charging for service, leaving it as an option for the guest. Home-style B&Bs do not ordinarily charge for service.

The price categories used throughout this guide indicate the cost of a double room for two per night, including tax but not service charges:

Very Expensive -- €275 ($325) and up

Expensive -- €200 to €275 ($260-$325)

Moderate -- €100 to €200 ($130-$260)

Inexpensive -- Under €100 ($130)

Note: Many accommodations span more than one of these categories, and in those cases, we've done our best to assign each to the category that best represents its characteristic rates in high season.

Ordinarily, the Irish list prices per person, but since we find that confusing, in this guide we've used the price a double room would cost for two people spending 1 night. Children staying in their parent's room are usually charged at 20% to 50% of the adult rate. If you're traveling on your own, there is often a single surcharge.

Terminology -- The Irish use the phrase "en suite" to indicate a room with private bathroom. A "double" has a double bed, and a "twin" has two single beds. An "orthopedic" bed has an extra-firm mattress. Queen- and king-size beds are not common except in large, deluxe hotels.

Reservations -- If you are traveling from the U.S., you should always have at least your first night's room booked, as you will be required to give an address for where you're staying at immigration when you arrive at the airport. That's just as well, since having rooms booked in advance is always a good idea. For properties that do not have a U.S. reservation number, the fastest way to reserve is by calling ahead or via the Internet (check the property's website anyway, as that's often where the best prices and last-minute deals are posted).

If you arrive in Ireland without a room reservation for some nights of your stay, head straight to the local tourist office, which can help with their computerized reservation service known as Gulliver. In Ireland or Northern Ireland, you can also call the Gulliver line directly (tel. 00800/668-668-66). This is a nationwide and cross-border "free-phone" facility for credit card bookings, operated 8am to 11pm from Monday to Friday, and 8am to 10pm weekends. Gulliver is also accessible from the United States (tel. 011-800/668-668-66) and on the Web at www.gulliver.ie.

Quality & Value -- Despite the various systems of approval, regulation, and ratings, accommodations in Ireland are quite uneven in quality and cost. Often these variations are due to location; a wonderful, budget B&B in an isolated area of countryside can be dirt-cheap, while a mediocre guesthouse in Dublin or Cork can cost much more.

In any given lodging, the size and quality of the rooms can vary considerably, often without any corresponding variation in cost. This is particularly true of single rooms, which can approach Victorian boardinghouse standards even in semiluxurious hotels. Don't be discouraged by this, but know what you're getting into so you're not disappointed. If you have complaints, state them at once and unambiguously -- doing so may bring an immediate resolution (ask for a lower rate or a better room).

Note: Many lodgings close for a few days or more on and around Christmas, even when they announce that they are open year-round. If you plan to visit Ireland during the Christmas holidays, double-check that the hotels, restaurants, and attractions you're counting on will be open.

Keys to the Castle

Dream of spending your vacation like a king or queen? Two companies specialize in self-catering accommodations in Ireland's historic and architecturally significant properties -- including elegant Georgian manor houses, stately country mansions, lighthouses, and castles. The Irish Landmark Trust, 25 Eustace St., Dublin 2 (tel. 01/670-4733; fax 01/670-4887; www.irishlandmark.com), rescues historic but neglected properties all over the island and restores them into fabulous hideaways, complete with period furnishings. It's a not-for-profit institution, so prices are hard to beat. Elegant Ireland, 15 Harcourt St., Dublin 2 (tel. 01/475-1632; fax 01/475-1012; www.elegant.ie), can put you up in anything from an upscale seaside bungalow to a medieval castle that sleeps 20. As most properties are privately owned, they are priced according to what the market will bear. Bargains are harder to come by, and deals are more likely in the off season.