Attractions

Ischia is the largest of Campania's islands, covering about 46 sq. km (18 sq. miles). Its velvety slopes green with pine woods and vineyards have earned it the nickname Isola Verde (Emerald Isle), while its fame as a healthy retreat has earned it another nickname, Island of Eternal Youth, for its peaceful atmosphere and its spas. These are fueled by the widespread volcanic activity still occurring on the island, although its volcano, Mount Epomeo, has long been dormant. Hot springs, mineral-water springs, and steam- and hot mud-holes dot the island's slopes.

The largest town on the island is Ischia, on the island's northeastern corner. The majority of activity is concentrated in Ischia Porto, around the main harbor (porto means harbor), and Ischia Ponte (ponte means bridge), by the bridge to the island promontory that flanks a small natural harbor. In between runs the pleasant promenade of Via Roma and Corso Vittoria Colonna -- il corso in local parlance -- stretching about 2km (1 1/4 miles). The promontory with its small natural harbor was the site of the original settlement, fortified by a castle as far back as the 5th century B.C. The castle, Piazzale Aragonese, Ischia Ponte (tel. 081-992834; www.castellodischia.it; 10€/$14/£7 adults, 6€/$8.40/£4.20 youth ages 9-19; children 8 and under free; winter 10am-4:30pm, summer 9am-7pm) on the promontory today was built by the Aragonese over the ruins of the earlier fortifications. We encourage you to climb up for a visit (though you can take an elevator), as it is quite scenic and picturesque. The last eruption of Mount Epomeo in 1301 destroyed most of the village that had grown around the small natural harbor. The population resettled, but closer to the castle and bridge.

Ischia Porto, the other, now larger, part of town was founded by the Bourbons on a whim. When they took over the island in the 18th century, all that was there was a scenic volcanic lake (originally a volcano crater) and a few villas. The new kings fell in love with a villa-cum-spa built by a doctor, Francesco Buonocore, and decided to establish their residence there. They transformed the villa overlooking the lake into a small palace -- what happened to the doctor is unknown; maybe he graciously donated his home to their majesties -- the Casina Reale Borbonica, which today houses a military spa (not open to the public). They also cut a channel into the outer shore of the lake, transforming it into a large harbor. Inaugurated in 1854, it has been the island's major port ever since, and a lively town has developed around it, with many nice bars and a few restaurants.

A short distance away from Ischia (6.5km/4 miles) on the north shore, you'll find the small village of Casamicciola Terme, with its scenic harbor and marina (although, being right on the main road, its charm is a bit spoiled by the traffic) and Villa Ibsen, where the famous Norwegian writer wrote Peer Gynt. Founded in the 16th century to take advantage of the area's thermo-mineral springs, Casamicciola Terme is where the first modern spa was opened on the island in 1604. The village, though, suffered a reversal of fortunes when it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1883. It was immediately rebuilt, but closer to the shore, in its current position by the marina. The remains of the original town are in the inland hamlet of Bagni, with the island's oldest spas opening onto its main square, and the village of Majo, farther up the slope.

Adjacent to Casamicciola, 8km (5 miles) west of Ischia Porto, is the picturesque Lacco Ameno, famous for its mushroom-shaped rock a few yards from the sandy shore. The ancient Greeks established their first settlement on this coast; although, daunted by the frequent -- at that time -- earthquakes and eruptions, they never developed a colony. An unassuming fishing harbor until the 1950s, it was then shaken out of its sleep by Italian publisher Angelo Rizzoli. He built his villa on the promontory of Monte Vico, overlooking the village to the west, and decided to invest in the area and transform it into an exclusive resort. His plan was successful and the promontory has become the most exclusive spa destination in Italy, offering many luxurious hotels and villas. Villa Arbusto, Angelo Rizzoli's own summer home, is today a museum -- Museo Civico Archeologico di Pithecusae (tel. 081-900356; 3€/$4.20/£2.10; Tues-Sun 9:30am-1pm and 4-8pm) -- displaying the findings of local archaeological excavation. It is worth a visit, if only to admire the famous Coppa di Nestore: Dating from 725 B.C., it bears one of the oldest known Greek inscriptions, which, appropriately, celebrates the wine of Ischia. Nearby is an important Catholic pilgrimage site, the Sanctuary of Santa Restituta (tel. 081-980706 or 081-980538; daily 10am-1pm and 4-7pm), with its attached archaeological excavations and museum. The original church was created in the 4th or 5th century A.D. by adapting an ancient Roman water cistern, and later restructured.

On the west side of the Monte Vico promontory are the lovely gardens of Villa La Mortella, Via F. Calise 39, 80075 Forio (tel. 081-986220; www.lamortella.it). Covering 2 hectares (5 acres), the gardens were created by the Argentinean wife of William Walton who collected many rare botanical species. Admission is 10€ ($14/£7) adults, 8€ ($11/£5.60) children ages 8 to 12, 6€ ($8.40/£4.20) children ages 5 to 7, and children 4 and under are admitted free (Apr 1-Nov 15 Tues, Thurs, Sat, and Sun 9am-7pm; ticket booth closes 30 min. earlier).

On the western coast of the island, 13km (8 miles) west of Ischia Porto, is the lively town of Forío, with its wealth of bars and beaches. Popular among Naples residents, it is usually bypassed by foreign tourists. A favorite retreat of writers and musicians for centuries, Forío is also appreciated by those who come to enjoy the locally produced wine and the views of its watchtower. The tower was built in the 16th century to defend the town from the Saracens attacks, was once a prison, and now houses a small museum (tel. 081-3332934) of the work of local poet and sculptor Giovanni Maltese.

The southern half of Ischia is more agricultural, with only one town on the southern shore: the tiny fishing harbor of Sant'Angelo, 11km (7 miles) south of Ischia Porto. Shaded by a tall promontory jutting into the sea and connected to the shore by a sandy isthmus (100m/300 ft. long) that is closed to vehicles, it is one of Ischia's most picturesque sights. Far from the hype of the high-priced spa resorts, it is quite exclusive and secluded. The other villages on this part of the island are nested on the steep slopes of the mountain, overlooking the sea. Serrara Fontana (9.5km/6 miles southwest of Ischia Porto) is a tiny hamlet centered around a lookout terrace affording spectacular views.

Flower Power

Ischia's unusual volcanic characteristics have produced more than spa-perfect conditions. The fertile soil and unique subtropical climate have been so favorable to flowering plants and shrubs that you can find on the island 50% of the entire European patrimony of flower species, a number of them indigenous to Ischia.

The D.O.C. Wines of Ischia

Ischia's vineyards produce wines that have been increasingly appreciated by connoisseurs; three even earned the D.O.C. label -- a government recognition reserved only for those superior wines from specific areas that answer to severe requirements of consistently good quality and characteristics. The winning wines are the red Monte Epomeo, the Ischia (red and white), and the white Biancolella. Wine enthusiasts around the world have to thank the Greeks for this bounty, for it was they who recognized the local potential and planted the varieties of grape still used today to produce the area's wines.