Attractions

The Bocas del Toro Archipelago, despite its location in the warm, cerulean Caribbean Sea, is not a quintessential beach destination. That's not to say that there are no beaches here; in fact, there are a handful of idyllic beaches straight from the pages of a travel magazine -- it just takes a little effort to reach them. Also, most beaches in Bocas offer poor swimming conditions because of strong riptides. The closest decent beach to Bocas Town (Bluff Beach) is an 8km (5-mile) bike- or taxi ride away, and the beaches on Isla Bastimentos can only be reached by boat, followed by a short to medium-long walk. During the calm-water months (early Sept to early Nov), it's possible to arrive directly by boat at the beaches of Isla Bastimentos.

If you don't have an all-inclusive package with your hotel, or if your hotel simply does not offer trips, there are plenty of tour agencies to fulfill your excursion needs. Bocas is a good base for exploring the archipelago -- nearly every kind of excursion and destination can be reached from here, including spots for watersports and cultural visits. Trips to Isla Bastimentos and the Zapatilla Cays are better with fast boats that offer flexible itineraries. If you have a group or can afford a private-boat rental, do so because it offers you the freedom to plan your own itinerary.

Tip: The old cliché "You get what you pay for" rings true in Bocas. There are plenty of agencies pitching the same day tour to the masses, usually for dirt-cheap prices. These companies cut corners by hiring semi-qualified guides with little concern for the environment; others try to save on gas by not taking clients far enough to the best snorkeling and diving sites -- providing less-than-memorable experiences and the dreaded cattle-herd sensation. To avoid disappointments, when booking, ask detailed questions about destinations, snorkeling and diving sites, safety precautions, and schedules.

Beaches & Other Natural Attractions

Boca del Drago Beach & Swan's Cay -- Boca del Drago is the best beach on Isla Colón for swimming, and when the sea is calm visitors can snorkel from the shore. However, often there isn't much beach to speak of -- just a couple of feet or so for throwing down a towel or beach chair, but it's a lovely spot. The beach is on the north shore of Isla Colón. Tour companies include Boca del Drago as part of their standard day tour, including a visit to nearby Swan's Cay, a picturesque rocky outcrop and bird sanctuary that attracts nesting boobies, frigates, and the magnificent red-billed tropic bird. There is no coral reef at Swan's Cay, but the sea-battered rocks are still an interesting place to snorkel. Do not disturb nesting birds by going ashore. You can also get to Boca del Drago from Bocas Town by road in a taxi, which costs $25 round-trip and takes 30 minutes. There is an excellent restaurant here called Restaurant Yasinori that also rents snorkel gear, but I recommend renting gear in Bocas and taking it with you.

Bluff Beach -- This gorgeous, golden-sand beach would be perfect if it weren't for a light sprinkling of trash. It's still the prettiest beach close to town for catching some rays -- but don't plan on getting more than your feet wet here because the ocean is fraught with riptides. The beach is about 8km (5 miles) from the city center and can be reached by taxi for $10 one-way. Some drivers are willing to hang around if you plan on staying an hour or two; if not, you'll need to arrange for pickup later. In this case, negotiate to pay when the driver returns (to make sure that he comes back). You can also rent a bicycle and pedal there, which is quite a pleasant ride if you're up to it. Rain can wreak havoc on the road, so be prepared for lots of puddles. (Incidentally, taxi drivers often inflate their price when the road calls for a 4WD.) On the way out of town you'll pass by the less-scenic Punch Beach, which is popular with surfers. Punch is known for its right and left breaks, reef bottom, and swells that average 1.5 to 1.6m (5-6 ft.).

San San Pond Sak Wetlands -- The San San Pond Sak Wetlands, covering nearly 16,187 hectares (40,000 acres), are located on the coast about 4.8km (3 miles) north of Changuinola. The wetlands are home to sloths, white-faced capuchin monkeys, and caimans, but more importantly, San San is the natural habitat of the manatee, an aquatic, elephant-like mammal that weighs between 363 and 544 kilograms (800 and 1,200 lb.). Previously it was difficult to visit San San, but Starfleet Scuba now offers a full-day excursion (7am-5pm) that provides for an out-of-the-ordinary experience. Because there is so little human traffic in this region, your chances of spotting a manatee are very good, but please note that manatees are protected animals. Do not chase, pet, or harass these magnificent creatures -- and report anyone who does. The Starfleet tour takes visitors to the coast, where they are transported by minibus to the put-in site for the cayuco (dug-out canoe) to paddle quietly through the wetlands. There is also an easy nature trail for getting out and stretching your legs. The cost includes a full lunch, park entrance fees, guides, and transportation; contact Starfleet for prices.

Other Activities In Bocas Town

Scientific Visits -- The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute has a base in Bocas del Toro, and is open to the public every Friday from 3 to 5pm. If you're lucky, you'll be around for one of their monthly chats led by a scientist who highlights the center's work and discoveries in the region. Contact the institute at tel. 212-8000, or visit their site, www.stri.org, for information about upcoming lectures.

Local Events -- The Fería Internacional del Mar (International Festival of the Sea), which takes place around the second week of September, is a 5-day event featuring handicrafts booths, food stands serving local cuisine, and exhibits by the Smithsonian Institute and ANAM (the park service), with displays of animals and natural history information. Nightly events include folkloric presentations and dances, all culminating with the crowning of the Sea Fair Queen. Contact the IPAT office for exact dates. The Fundación de la Provincia de Bocas del Toro (Founding Day of Bocas del Toro) takes place on November 16, and is celebrated with parades and other events; on November 23, residents of Isla Bastimentos celebrate Bastimentos Day, with parades and live music. There is a maypole dance in Bocas and on Isla Bastimentos for Palo de Mayo, which takes place on May 1. Lastly, on July 16 is the Día de la Virgen del Carmen, which honors the patron saint of Bocas with a parade; the following Sunday hundreds make the pilgrimage across the island to visit the shrine of the virgin at La Gruta.

Spa -- If you're winding down from a day of activity (and a hammock isn't doing the trick), try Spa Flora Bella (tel. 6591-3814; www.spaflorabella.com), which offers deep tissue massages, reflexology, and hot-stone treatments, as well as an assortment of beauty services such as hair cuts and facials. The spa is located behind Bubbles Laundry at Calle 4 and Avenida Central. Several massage therapists provide in-hotel services; try Therapueutic Body Work at tel. 6632-6269; Bocas Delight Massage at tel. 6577-9915; or Holistic Alternative Therapy at tel. 6686-0235, which has Zen-Shiatsu massage and Thai foot massages.