Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- Several international airlines and dozens of charter carriers have service to Margarita's Aeropuerto Internacional del Caribe Santiago Mariño (tel. 0295/269-1438; airport code PMV) from major European cities, as well as from Toronto, Montreal, Miami, and New York. Many of these are sold as package tours.

From Caracas, there are a couple dozen flights to Margarita throughout the day. Aeropostal (tel. 0800/284-6637; www.aeropostal.com), Aserca (tel. 0800/648-8356; www.asercaairlines.com); Avior (tel. 0501/284-67737; www.aviorairlines.com), Conviasa (tel. 0500/266-8472; www.conviasa.aero), and Laser (tel. 0501/527-3700; www.laser.com.ve) all fly between Caracas's Simón Bolívar International Airport and Isla de Margarita. Fares vary radically according to season and day of the week, ranging from 107,000Bs to 322,000Bs ($50-$150) each way. Midweek and low-season fares are considerably less expensive. Conversely, seats sell out well in advance and at a premium on weekends and holidays and during the high season. Flight schedules and travel agents refer to the airport as Porlamar, although it is around 20km (13 miles) from the city, on the southern part of the island near the beach of El Yaque.

By Ferry -- Although losing ground to air traffic, ferry service has and continues to be Margarita's principal link to the mainland. Visitors, residents, cars, buses, and most of the island's goods and merchandise travel by sea. The main ferry station is at Punta de Piedras on the southern end of the island. The main departure points for ferries to Margarita are La Guaira on the coast about 30 minutes from Caracas, and Puerto La Cruz and Cumaná on the northern coast of Venezuela several hours east of Caracas. There are numerous public buses throughout the day from Caracas to both Puerto La Cruz and Cumaná. The bus trip runs about 5 hours from Caracas to Puerto La Cruz (fare 8,600Bs-16,000Bs/$4-$8), and 7 to 8 hours to Cumaná (fare 11,000Bs-15,000Bs/$5-$7). You can also try the Unión Conductores de La Guira (tel. 0212/482-3344), or the Unión Conductores de Margarita, Terminal Oriente, Caracas (tel. 0212/541-0035 or 0295/287-0931). The latter has a direct combined trip that costs around 54,000Bs ($25) each way.

Basically, there are two types of ferries running from Puerto La Cruz and Cumaná: the older regular ferries, which take between 3 and 4 hours each way, and the newer "express" ferries, which make the crossing in around 2 hours. Conferry also has regular express service between La Guaira (just outside of Caracas) and Margarita. The crossing takes just under 5 hours to or from La Guiara. Ferry schedules change drastically according to season and demand, and even the set schedules are sometimes somewhat flexible. For current ferry schedules and fares, contact Conferry (tel. 0212/709-0000 or 0501/266-33779; www.conferry.com), or Gran Cacique Express (tel. 0800/227-2600 or 0295/239-8339; www.grancacique.com.ve).

It's recommended to try buying tickets in advance on weekends and during high season. Costs range from 15,000Bs to 39,000Bs ($7-$18) per person, each way, and 43,000Bs to 86,000Bs ($20-$40) per car on most ferries. The cost difference for passengers is often tied to the "class" of your ticket. Splurge for the higher-class fares, which will get you a seat in an enclosed and air-conditioned lounge deck. The cost is 97,000Bs ($45) per car and 54,000Bs ($25) per person, one-way, on the modern express ferries. Many of the car ferries will leave only when they are completely full. Because of demand and convenience the express ferry from La Guiara is quite costly, running around 165,000Bs-223,000Bs ($77-$104) per person, round-trip.

Twin Peaks -- Whether you arrive by air or by ferry, one of the first sights most visitors have upon approaching Isla de Margarita are two rounded hills that are officially and affectionately known as Las Tetas de María Guevara (María Guevara's Tits). A transplant from the mainland who moved to Margarita in the early 19th century, María Guevara became a local icon important in the growth of Punta de Piedras. Regardless of whether you're told she was a groundbreaking feminist or a successful brothel owner, she clearly inspired local fishermen to christen the prominent landmarks that guided them home in her honor. Today, the hills are a national monument.

Getting Around

Renting a car is not essential, but it does make getting around Margarita easier. Budget (tel. 0800/283-4381 or 0295/269-1490; www.budget.com.ve), Hertz (tel. 0800/800-0000 or 0295/269-1274; www.hertz.com), and Margarita Rentals (tel. 0295/263-2711) all have offices at the airport. It costs $35 to $80 per day to rent a car. Several outfits around the island rent scooters and mopeds for between $30 to $45 per day.

Por puesto buses service most of the island. They are a very inexpensive and reliable way to get around, although the going can be slow, as they often stop to pick up and discharge passengers at maddeningly short intervals. Typical service hours are daily from 6am to 8pm. Fares range from 350Bs to 1500Bs (15¢-70¢).

Taxis are also readily available. It will cost you around 20,000Bs ($9.30) to travel between the airport and Porlamar; 5,000Bs ($2.30) between Porlamar and Pampatar; 17,000Bs ($7.90) between Playa El Agua and either Porlamar or Pampatar; and 26,000Bs ($12) between Playa El Agua and the airport. If you can't flag one down on the street you can order a cab by calling Taxis Unidos (tel. 0295/263-2269).

Visitor Information

There is a simple, very basic information desk at the airport in Porlamar. However, you're better off heading to one of the scores of tour agencies to be found around Porlamar and Pampatar and at most major hotels on the island.

Fast Facts -- You'll find a couple of currency exchange offices at the airport and a dozen or more money-exchange houses in Porlamar, Pampatar, and around the island. Most major hotels here will change money for you as well, although usually at slightly unfavorable rates. There are scores of banks on Isla de Margarita. They often have ATMs connected to PLUS or Cirrus systems that will advance you bolivares against your home account. You'll find ATMs in both Porlamar and Pampatar, as well as at all the large malls and some of the large resort hotels.

In case of any medical emergency, consult with your hotel first, or head to the Luis Ortega Hospital in Porlamar (tel. 0295/261-6508).

Internet cafes are located in most malls and major resorts, as well as in Porlamar, in Pampatar, and along Playa El Agua. For regular mail, there are Ipostel offices in both Porlamar and Pampatar. Most hotels will also post mail for you.