Planning a Trip

Getting There & Departing

Puerto Juárez, just north of Cancún, is the dock (tel. 998/877-0382) for passenger ferries to Isla Mujeres. Ultramar (tel. 998/843-2011; www.granpuerto.com.mx) has fast boats leaving every half-hour from "Gran Puerto" in Puerto Juárez, making the trip in 15 minutes. There is storage space for luggage and the fare is about $4 (£2.20) each way. These boats operate daily, starting at 6am and usually ending at 10:30pm (check beforehand for the latest schedules). They might leave early if they're full, so arrive ahead of schedule. Pay at the ticket office -- or, if the ferry is about to leave, aboard.

Note: Upon arrival by taxi or bus in Puerto Juárez, be wary of pirate "guides" who tell you either that the ferry is canceled or that it's several hours until the next ferry. They'll offer the services of a private lancha (small boat) for about $40 (£22) -- and it's nothing but a scam. Small boats are available and, on a co-op basis, charge $15 to $25 (£8.25-£14) one-way, based on the number of passengers. They take about 50 minutes and are not recommended on days with rough seas. Check with the clearly visible ticket office -- the only accurate source for information.

Taxi fares are posted by the street where the taxis park, so be sure to check the rate before agreeing to a taxi for the ride back to Cancún. Rates generally run $12 to $15 (£6.60-£8.25), depending upon your destination. Moped and bicycle rentals are also readily available as you depart the ferry. This small complex also has public bathrooms, luggage storage, a snack bar, and souvenir shops.

Isla Mujeres is so small that a vehicle isn't necessary, but if you're taking one, you'll use the Punta Sam port a little beyond Puerto Juárez. The 40-minute car ferry (tel. 998/877-0065) runs five or six times daily between 8am and 8pm, year-round except in bad weather. Times are generally as follows: Cancún to Isla 8 and 11am and 2:45, 5:30, and 8:15pm; Isla to Cancún 6:30 and 9:30am and 12:45, 4:15, and 7:15pm. Always check with the tourist office in Cancún to verify this schedule. Cars should arrive an hour before the ferry departure to register for a place in line and pay the posted fee, which varies depending on the weight and type of vehicle. A gas pump in Isla is at the intersection of Avenida Rueda Medina and Calle Abasolo, just northwest of the ferry docks.

There are also ferries to Isla Mujeres from the Playa Linda, known as the Embarcadero pier in Cancún, but they're less frequent and more expensive than those from Puerto Juárez. A Water Taxi (tel. 998/886-4270 or -4847; asterix@cablered.net.mx) to Isla Mujeres operates from Playa Caracol, between the Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Hotel and the Xcaret terminal on the island, with prices about the same as those from Playa Linda and about four times the cost of the public ferries from Puerto Juárez. Scheduled departures are at 9 and 11am and 1pm, with returns from Isla Mujeres at noon and 5pm. Adult round-trip fares are $15 (£8.25); kids ages 3 to 12 pay $7.50 (£4.15); free for children younger than 3.

To get to Puerto Juárez or Punta Sam from Cancún, take any Ruta 8 city bus from Avenida Tulum. If you're coming from Mérida, you can fly to Cancún and proceed to Puerto Juárez, or take a bus directly to Puerto Juárez. From Cozumel, you can fly to Cancún (there are daily flights), or take a ferry to Playa del Carmen, and then travel to Puerto Juárez.

Arriving -- Passenger ferries arrive at the docks in the center of town (car ferries arrive just north of town). The main road that passes in front is Avenida Rueda Medina. Most hotels are close by. Tricycle taxis are the least expensive and most fun way to get to your hotel; you and your luggage pile in the open carriage compartment, and the driver pedals through the streets. Regular taxis are always lined up in a parking lot to the right of the pier, with their rates posted. If someone on the ferry offers to arrange a taxi for you, politely decline, unless you'd like some help with your luggage down the short pier -- it just means an extra, unnecessary tip for your helper.

Visitor Information

The City Tourist Office (tel./fax 998/877-0767 or -0307) is at Av. Rueda Medina 130, just across the street from the pier. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4pm, closed on Saturdays and Sundays. Also look for Islander, a free publication with local information, advertisements, and event listings.

Island Layout

Isla Mujeres is about 8km (5 miles) long and 4km (2 1/2 miles) wide, with the town at the northern tip. "Downtown" is a compact 4 blocks by 6 blocks, so it's very easy to get around. The passenger ferry docks are at the center of town, within walking distance of most hotels, restaurants, and shops. The street running along the waterfront is Avenida Rueda Medina, commonly called the malecón (boardwalk). The Mercado Municipal (town market) is by the post office on Calle Guerrero, an inland street at the north edge of town, which, like most streets in the town, is unmarked.

Getting Around

A popular form of transportation on Isla Mujeres is the electric golf cart, available for rent at many hotels or rental shops for $15 (£8.25) per hour or $45 (£25) per day. Prices are set the same at all rental locations. El Sol Golf Cart Rental, Av. Benito Juárez Mza 3 #20 (corner of Matamoros; tel. 998/877-0791) is one good option in the town center. The golf carts don't go more than 30kmph (20 mph), but they're fun. Anyway, you aren't on Isla Mujeres to hurry. Many people enjoy touring the island by moto (motorized bike or scooter). Fully automatic versions are available for around $30 (£17) per day or $8 (£4.40) per hour. They come with helmets and seats for two people. There's only one main road with a couple of offshoots, so you won't get lost. Be aware that the rental price does not include insurance, and any injury to yourself or the vehicle will come out of your pocket. Bicycles are also available for rent at some hotels for $4 (£2.20) per hour or $10 (£5.50) per day, usually including a basket and a lock.

If you prefer to use a taxi, rates are about $2.50 (£1.40) for trips within the downtown area, or $4.50 (£2.50) for a trip to the southern end of Isla. You can also hire them for about $10 (£5.50) per hour. The number to call for taxis is tel. 998/877-0066.