Dolphin Discovery -- You can swim with live dolphins (tel. 998/877-0207 or 849-4757; fax 998/849-4751; www.dolphindiscovery.com) in an enclosure at Treasure Island, on the side of Isla Mujeres that faces Cancún. Groups of eight people swim with two dolphins and one trainer. Swimmers view an educational video and spend time in the water with the trainer and the dolphins before enjoying 15 minutes of free swimming time with them. Reservations are recommended, and you must arrive an hour before your assigned swimming time, at 10:30am, noon, 2 or 3:30pm. The cost is $139 (£76) per person for the Dolphin Royal Swim. There are less-expensive programs that allow you to learn about, touch, and hold the dolphins (but not swim with them) starting at $79 (£43).
A Turtle Sanctuary -- As recently as 20 years ago, fishermen converged on the island nightly from May to September, waiting for the monster-size turtles to lumber ashore to deposit their Ping-Pong-ball-shaped eggs. Totally vulnerable once they begin laying their eggs, and exhausted when they have finished, the turtles were easily captured and slaughtered for their highly prized meat, shell, and eggs. Then a concerned fisherman, Gonzalez Cahle Maldonado, began convincing others to spare at least the eggs, which he protected. It was a start. Following his lead, the fishing secretariat founded the Centro de Investigaciones; although the local government provided assistance in the past, now the center relies solely on private donations. Since opening, tens of thousands of turtles have been released, and every year local schoolchildren participate in the event, thus planting the notion of protecting the turtles for a new generation of islanders.
Six species of sea turtles nest on Isla Mujeres. An adult green turtle, the most abundant species, measures 1 to 1.5m (3 1/4-5 ft.) in length and can weigh as much as 450 pounds. At the center, visitors walk through the indoor and outdoor turtle pool areas, where the creatures paddle around. The turtles are separated by age, from newly hatched up to 1 year. People who come here usually end up staying at least an hour, especially if they opt for the guided tour, which I recommend. They also have a small gift shop and snack bar. The sanctuary is on a piece of land separated from the island by Bahía de Mujeres and Laguna Makax, at Carr. Sac Bajo #5; you'll need a taxi to get there. Admission is $3 (£1.65); the shelter is open daily from 9am to 5pm. For more information, call tel. 998/877-0595.
Sights of Punta Sur -- At Punta Sur (the southern point of the island, just inland from Garrafon National Reef Park; call 866/393 5158 in the U.S. or 800/727 5391 in Mexico or go to www.garrafon.com) and part of the park, is Isla's newest attraction, the Panoramic Tower. At 50m (164-ft.) high, the tower offers visitors a bird's-eye view of the entire island. The tower holds 20 visitors at a time, and rotates for 10 minutes while you snap photos or simply enjoy the scenery. However, it was closed for renovations at press time.
Next to the tower you'll find Sculptured Spaces, an impressive and extensive garden of large sculptures donated to Isla Mujeres by internationally renowned sculptors as part of the 2001 First International Sculpture Exhibition. Among Mexican sculptors represented by works are José Luis Cuevas and Vlaadimir Cora.
Nearby is the Caribbean Village, with narrow lanes of colorful clapboard buildings that house cafes and shops displaying folkloric art. Plan to have lunch or a snack here at the kiosk and stroll around, before heading on to the lighthouse and Maya ruins.
Also at this southern point of the island, and part of the ruins, is Cliff of the Dawn, the southeasternmost point of Mexico. Services are available from 9am to 5pm, but you can enter at any time; if you make it there early enough to see the sunrise, you can claim you were the first person in Mexico that day to be touched by the sun!
A Maya Ruin -- Just beyond the lighthouse, at the southern end of the island, are the strikingly beautiful remains of a small Maya temple, believed to have been built to pay homage to the moon and fertility goddess Ixchel. The location, on a lofty bluff overlooking the sea, is worth seeing and makes a great place for photos. It is believed that Maya women traveled here on annual pilgrimages to seek Ixchel's blessings of fertility. If you're at Garrafon park and want to walk, it's not too far. Turn right from Garrafon. When you see the lighthouse, turn toward it down the rocky path.
A Pirate's Fortress -- The Fortress of Mundaca is about 4km (2 1/2 miles) in the same direction as Garrafon, less than a kilometer (about half a mile) to the left. A slave trader who claimed to have been the pirate Mundaca Marecheaga built the fortress. In the early 19th century, he arrived at Isla Mujeres and set up a blissful paradise, while making money selling slaves to Cuba and Belize. According to island lore, he decided to settle down and build this hacienda after being captivated by the charms of an island girl. However, she reputedly spurned his affections and married another islander, leaving him heartbroken and alone on Isla Mujeres. Admission is $2 (£1.10); the fortress is open daily from 10am to 6pm.
A Visit to Isla Contoy -- If possible, plan to visit this pristine uninhabited island -- 30km (20 miles) by boat from Isla Mujeres -- that became a national wildlife reserve in 1981. Lush vegetation covers the oddly shaped island, which is 6km (3 3/4 miles) long and harbors 70 species of birds as well as a host of marine and animal life. Bird species that nest on the island include pelicans, brown boobies, frigates, egrets, terns, and cormorants. Flocks of flamingos arrive in April. June, July, and August are good months to spot turtles burying their eggs in the sand at night. Most excursions troll for fish (which will be your lunch), anchor en route for a snorkeling expedition, skirt the island at a leisurely pace for close viewing of the birds without disturbing the habitat, and then pull ashore. While the captain prepares lunch, visitors can swim, sun, follow the nature trails, and visit the fine nature museum, which has bathroom facilities. The trip from Isla Mujeres takes about 45 minutes each way and can be longer if the waves are choppy. Because of the tight-knit boatmen's cooperative, prices for this excursion are the same everywhere: $40 (£22). You can buy a ticket at the Sociedad Cooperativa Turística on Avenida Rueda Medina, next to Mexico Divers and Las Brisas restaurant (tel. 998/877-1363). Isla Contoy trips leave at 9am and return around 4:30pm. The price (cash only) is $55 (£30) for adults, $28 (£15) for children. Boat captains should respect the cooperative's regulations regarding ecological sensitivity and boat safety, including the availability of life jackets for everyone on board. If you're not given a life jacket, ask for one. Snorkeling equipment is usually included in the price, but double-check before heading out.
