Attractions

Turtle Sanctuary

Years ago, fishermen converged on the island nightly from May to September to capture turtles when they would come ashore to lay eggs. Then a concerned fisherman, Gonzalo Chale Maldonado, began convincing others to spare at least the eggs, which he protected. It was a start. Following his lead, the fishing ministry founded the Centro de Investigaciones Pesqueras to find ways to protect the species and increase the turtle populations. Although the local government provides some assistance, most of the funding comes from private-sector donations. Since the center opened, tens of thousands of young turtles have been released, and local schoolchildren have participated, helping to educate a new generation of islanders for the cause. Releases are scheduled from May to October, and visitors are invited to take part. Inquire at the center.

Three species of sea turtles nest on Isla Mujeres. An adult green turtle, the most abundant species, is 1 to 1.5m (3 1/4-5 ft.) long and can weigh 204kg (450 lb.). At the center, visitors walk through the indoor and outdoor turtle pool areas, where the creatures paddle around. Turtles are separated by age, from newly hatched up to 1 year. People who come here usually end up staying at least an hour, especially if they opt for the guided tour, which I recommend. They also have a small gift shop and snack bar. The sanctuary is on a spit of land jutting out from the island's west coast. The address is Carr. Sac Bajo #5; you'll need a taxi to get there. Admission is $2 (£1.50); the shelter is open daily from 9am to 5pm. For more information, call tel. 998/877-0595.

Garrafón National Park and Punta Sur

El Garrafón (tel. 998/849-4748; www.garrafon.com) is at the southern end of the island. The pricy but well-equipped park has two restaurant/bars, beach chairs, a swimming pool, kayaks, changing rooms, rental lockers, showers, a gift shop, and snack bars. Once a public national underwater park, Garrafón is now operated by Dolphin Discovery. Public facilities have vastly improved, with the addition of new attractions and facilities each year. Activities include snorkeling and Snuba (a tankless version of scuba diving, when you descend while breathing through a long air tube); "Sea Trek," which allows you to explore the Caribbean seabed wearing a helmet with compressed air; crystal-clear canoes for viewing underwater life; and a zip-line that takes you over the water. On land are tanning decks, shaded hammocks, a 12m (40-ft.) climbing tower, and -- of course -- a souvenir superstore. A new panoramic tower had yet to open as of my last trip. At 50m (164-ft.) high, it will afford visitors a bird's-eye view of the entire island. Several restaurants and snack bars are available. Basic admission is $36 (£18); the all-inclusive package is $50 (£25; American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted). More expensive packages include transportation and/or swims with dolphins at Dolphin Discovery . The park is open daily in high season from 9am to 5pm. In low season it closes for 2 or 3 days per week.

Next to the panoramic tower you'll find Sculptured Spaces, an impressive and extensive garden of large sculptures donated to Isla Mujeres by internationally renowned sculptors as part of the 2001 First International Sculpture Exhibition. Among Mexican sculptors represented by works are José Luis Cuevas and Vladimir Cora.

Nearby is the Caribbean Village, with narrow lanes of colorful clapboard buildings that house cafes and shops displaying folkloric art. Plan to have lunch or a snack here at the kiosk and stroll around, before heading on to the lighthouse and Maya ruins.

Also at this southern point of the island, and part of the ruins, is Cliff of the Dawn, the southeasternmost point of Mexico. Services are available from 9am to 5pm, but you can enter at any time; if you make it there early enough to see the sunrise, you can claim you were the first person in Mexico that day to be touched by the sun!

A Maya Ruin

Just beyond the lighthouse, at the southern end of the island, are the remains of a small Maya temple. Archaeologists believe it was dedicated to the moon and fertility goddess Ixchel. The location, on a lofty bluff overlooking the sea, is worth seeing and makes a great place for photos. It is believed that Maya women traveled here on annual pilgrimages to seek Ixchel's blessings of fertility.

A Pirate's Fortress

Almost in the middle of the island is large building purported to have been a pirate fortress. A slave trader who arrived here in the early 19th century, claimed to have been the pirate Mundaca Marecheaga. He set up a business selling slaves to Cuba and Belize and prospered here. According to island lore, a charming local girl captivated him, only to spurn him in favor of a local. Admission is $2 (£1); the fortress is open daily from 10am to 6pm.

A Visit to Isla Contoy

Try to visit this pristine uninhabited island, 30km (20 miles) by boat from Isla Mujeres. It became a national wildlife reserve in 1981. Lush vegetation covers the oddly shaped island, which is 6km (3 3/4 miles) long and harbors 70 species of birds as well as a host of marine and animal life. Bird species that nest on the island include pelicans, brown boobies, frigates, egrets, terns, and cormorants. Flocks of flamingos arrive in April. Most excursions troll for fish (which will be your lunch), anchor en route for a snorkeling expedition, skirt the island at a leisurely pace for close viewing of the birds without disturbing the habitat, and then pull ashore. While the captain prepares lunch, visitors can swim, sun, follow the nature trails, and visit the fine nature museum, which has bathroom facilities. The trip from Isla Mujeres takes about 45 minutes each way and can be longer if the waves are choppy. Because of the tight-knit boatmen's cooperative, prices for this excursion are the same everywhere: $40 (£22). You can buy a ticket at the Sociedad Cooperativa on Avenida Rueda Medina, next to Mexico Divers and Las Brisas restaurant (tel. 998/877-1363). Isla Contoy trips leave at 9am and return around 4:30pm. The price (cash only) is $55 (£28) for adults, $28 (£14) for children. Boat captains should respect the cooperative's regulations regarding ecological sensitivity and boat safety, including the availability of life jackets for everyone on board. If you're not given a life jacket, ask for one. Snorkeling equipment is usually included in the price, but double-check before heading out.