The Best Luxury Hotels

The hotel scene in Israel is presently in the process of a change. After 6 years of a tourism slump, when almost no hotels were renovated or rooms redone, tourists are returning, and with them, carpenters, plumbers, and decorators to brighten establishments that had become worn and shabby. During the time span of this edition, many hotels we've described as needing to redecorate will probably do so. International chains have been better at keeping up standards and have already begun ambitious renovation programs. Although new hotel construction has been at a standstill in Israel since 2000, these plans are ready to go forward if the quiet security situation continues to hold. Inside Israel, hotel rates are beginning to rise in response to higher demand. In Jordan and Sinai, you'll find wonderful new hotels with rooms still going at bargain rates.

• David Citadel Hotel (Jerusalem; tel. 02/621-1111). Rival to the King David , this newest luxury hotel in Jerusalem is architecturally interesting, lively, and offers excellent food services, including a great sushi bar. Most of the light, modern rooms offer Old City views.
• King David Hotel (Jerusalem; tel. 02/620-8888): Built in 1930 during the British Mandate, the King David has outlasted the British Empire and continues to sail on; it's elegant and up-to-date in every way. The Nubian, fez-adorned lobby attendants of the 1930s are no longer here, but the King David is thick with atmosphere and ambience, and VIPs from Henry Kissinger to Barbra Streisand seem to pop up here. The gardened swimming pool and views of the walls of the Old City are a real plus.
• American Colony Hotel (Jerusalem; tel. 02/627-9777): This beautiful, atmospheric, gardened enclave was a 19th-century pasha's villa. As an international meeting place between the worlds of East and West Jerusalem, it attracts journalists, writers, archaeologists, and all sorts of VIPs. It's probably the most savvy, romantic spot in the Middle East. Some of the suites, furnished with antiques and traditional crafts, are as splendid as anything you'll find in the region, yet prices are comparatively reasonable. The hotel's Saturday-afternoon luncheon buffet is famous throughout the country.
• Mount Zion Hotel (Jerusalem; tel. 02/568-9555): This lesser-known four-star standout features lovely gardens, interesting architecture, a large swimming pool, and the most dramatic vistas of the Old City, Himmom Valley, and the Mount of Olives of any Jerusalem hotel.
• Tel Aviv Sheraton Hotel & Towers (Tel Aviv; tel. 03/521-1111): The most fun of Tel Aviv's luxury hotels -- right on the beach, but steps away from the city's restaurant and gallery district -- feels like an urban resort. The restaurants here are probably the best of any hotel in the country, topped off by the inventive (and kosher) Olive Leaf. Mediterranean views from many of the guest rooms, complete with dazzling sunsets, are a plus, as is the very efficient business center.
• Tel Aviv Hilton (Tel Aviv; tel. 03/520-2240): With an unequaled staff, business center, and CYBEX health club, the Hilton is the doyen of Tel Aviv's beachfront hotels. Suites and better-category rooms are beautifully furnished and decorated; the sheltered beach offers a resort atmosphere; and the kosher sushi bar hints at the Hilton's role as a center for business and tourism exchanges between Asia and the Middle East.
• Dan Carmel Hotel (Haifa; tel. 04/830-3010): With sweeping views from its site at the top of the Carmel Range, as well as a careful staff and a relaxing, gardened pool enclave, this hotel, built in the 1960s and a bit dated for some, reigns as Haifa's best. The better guest rooms, with views of the bay, are nicely decorated and worth the extra money. Lower-category rooms still have a style that recalls the Eisenhower era.
• The Scots Hotel (Tiberias; tel. 04/671-0710): With its 19th-century buildings, beautiful terraces, and gardens looking out on the Sea of Galilee, this well-run, four-star hotel seems almost like a villa on the Italian coast. Run under the auspices of the Church of Scotland, it welcomes visitors of all faiths. All rooms were totally rebuilt in 2004, but the "antique rooms" in an older building have special character.
• Herods Palace Hotel Complex (North Beach, Eilat; tel. 08/638-0000): Opened in 1999, this blockbuster's public areas are the most sumptuous in Israel. With architectural touches echoing Middle Eastern traditions and staff at times costumed in "ancient" garb, the effect may seem a bit Hollywood-esque, but the gorgeous spa, the vast pool, and the excellent service are not fantasies. The Red Sea is steps away.
• Four Seasons Sharm el Sheik (Sharm el Sheik, Sinai, Egypt; tel. 69/360-3555): This establishment is the most atmospheric and luxurious of Sinai's many new superluxury resorts. It's designed in a low-rise, garden style that suggests a whitewashed Egyptian/North African village. The Four Seasons offers rooms, suites, and private villas overlooking the Red Sea; a good snorkeling reef; diving, swimming, and snorkeling facilities; and every amenity you could want.