The Best Luxury Hotels

The hotel scene in Israel is presently in the process of a change. After 6 years of a tourism slump, when almost no hotels were renovated or rooms redone, tourists are returning and with them, carpenters, plumbers, and decorators to brighten establishments that had become worn and shabby. During the time span of this edition, many hotels we've described as needing to redecorate will probably do so. International chains have been better at keeping up standards and have already begun ambitious renovation programs. Although new hotel construction has been at a standstill in Israel since 2000, plans for new hotels that have been on hold are ready to go forward if a quiet security situation continues to hold. Inside Israel, hotel rates are beginning to rise in response to higher demand. In Jordan and Sinai, you'll find wonderful new hotels with rooms still going at bargain rates.

The King David Hotel (Jerusalem; tel. 02/620-8888): Built in 1930 during the British Mandate, the King David has outlasted the British Empire and continues to sail on, immaculate, elegant, and up-to-date in every way. The Nubian, fez-adorned lobby attendants of the 1930s are no longer here, but the King David is thick with atmosphere and ambience, and VIPs from Henry Kissinger to Barbra Streisand seem to pop up here. The gardened swimming pool and views of the walls of the Old City are a real plus.

American Colony Hotel (Jerusalem; tel. 02/627-9777): This beautiful, atmospheric, gardened enclave was a 19th-century pasha's villa. As an international meeting place between the worlds of East and West Jerusalem, it attracts journalists, writers, archaeologists, and all sorts of VIPs. It's probably the most savvy, romantic spot in the Middle East. Some of the suites, furnished with antiques and traditional crafts, are as splendid as anything you'll find in the region, yet prices are comparatively reasonable. The hotel's Saturday afternoon luncheon buffet is famous throughout the country.

Tel Aviv Sheraton Hotel & Towers (Tel Aviv; tel. 03/521-1111): The most fun of Tel Aviv's luxury hotels -- right on the beach, but steps away from the city's restaurant and gallery district -- feels like an urban resort. The restaurants here are probably the best of any hotel in the country, topped off by the inventive (and kosher!) Olive Leaf Restaurant. Mediterranean views from many of the guest rooms, complete with dazzling sunsets, are a plus, as is the very efficient business center.

Tel Aviv Hilton (Tel Aviv; tel. 03/522-2240): With an unequaled staff, business center, and CYBEX health club the Hilton is the doyenne of Tel Aviv's beachfront hotels. Suites and better-category rooms are beautifully furnished and decorated; the sheltered beach offers a resort atmosphere; and the kosher sushi bar hints at the Hilton's role as a center for business and tourism exchanges between Asia and the Middle East.

Dan Carmel Hotel (Haifa; tel. 04/830-3010): With sweeping views from its site at the top of the Carmel Range, as well as a careful staff and a relaxing, gardened pool enclave, this hotel, built in the 1960s, is regarded as Haifa's best. The better guest rooms, with views of the bay, are beautifully decorated and well worth the extra money. Lower-category rooms still have a style that recalls the Eisenhower era.

Sheraton's Herods Palace Hotel (North Beach, Eilat; tel. 07/638-0000): Opened in 1999, this blockbuster's public areas are the most sumptuous in Israel. With architectural touches echoing Middle Eastern traditions, and staff at times costumed in "ancient" garb, the effect may seem a bit Hollywoodesque, but the gorgeous spa, the vast pool, and the excellent service are not fantasies. The Red Sea is steps away.

Four Seasons Sharm el Sheik (Sharm el Sheik, Sinai, Egypt; tel. 69/360-3555): This establishment is the most atmospheric and luxurious of Sinai's many new superluxury resorts. It's designed in a low-rise, garden style that suggests a whitewashed Egyptian/North African village. The Four Seasons offers rooms, suites, and private villas overlooking the Red Sea; a good snorkeling reef; diving, swimming, and snorkeling facilities; and every amenity you could want.

Petra Mövenpick Hotel (Petra, Jordan; tel. 962 03/215-7111): Right at the entrance to Petra National Park (which makes more than one foray into Petra each day possible) the Mövenpick is the best blend of contemporary and traditional Middle Eastern design I've seen in the region. Without being kitschy, public areas are atmospheric and exciting. The rooftop cafe at night is an easy place for travelers to meet and swap experiences under the stars; the dinner buffet is the best around.

Taybet Zaman Hotel and Resort (Petra, Jordan; tel. 962-03/215-0111): The stone houses and lanes of an abandoned Bedouin village in the mountains above Petra (a 20-min. drive away) have been turned into the rooms and suites of a charming, atmospheric, quality resort. Vistas are awesome, and each room is uniquely decorated with Bedouin crafts. The village market is a shopping arcade and local country musicians serenade at night.