For Families

If you're coming from North America, the long flight and jet lag are likely to leave a kid either semicomatose or in a very negative state of mind. But Israel is a kid-friendly country, and exploring it though a child's eyes will add new levels of meaning to your journey. The country is a tale of two halves. Southern Israel is filled with a plethora of attractions and sites geared to kids, from camel trekking in the Ramon Crater to floating in the Dead Sea. Even archaeological sites such as Masada are filled with adventure and drama for young ones. Touring the north of Israel with a child, however, needs more careful planning. Only the most pious child will enjoy darkened holy places, the rubble of archaeological sites, and being hounded by shopkeepers in the bazaar trying to sell child-size crowns of thorns ("How many you need? What size you take?"). So I've designed this itinerary to help you navigate the northern spots without taxing you or your child's patience.

And to make sure I kept a child's perspective in mind, Frommer's Israel has as part of its team an inquisitive, golden-haired, 5-year-old moppet named Lyne, who lives in Jerusalem, attends a bilingual school, and has been checking restaurants, zoos, museums, and hotels with me since she was a 4-week-old in a Snugli, charming the staff of a kosher Indian restaurant in Jerusalem. Lyne's picks are included in this itinerary.

Kids' Activities--No matter where you travel with your kids, always check the Friday Ha'aretz/Herald Tribune and Jerusalem Post and check in with Tourist Information Offices everywhere. Especially in summer, there's usually an array of street performers at night on Jerusalem's Ben Yehuda Mall or Tel Aviv's beach promenade, puppet shows, and special museum exhibits and activities aimed at kids.

Days 1 & 2: Jerusalem's Old City

A hotel with a pool is a necessity; the Inbal has one open year-round, and is next to Liberty Bell Park, with a playground. Lyne's Pick: Mount Zion Hotel, because you can jump from the kids' pool to the big pool in one step and there are often Jerusalem and visiting kids to play with. Spend your morning in the Old City, exploring the bazaar and Jewish, Christian, and Islamic holy sites. Lyne's Pick: The Crusader-era Church of Saint Anne, where groups and individuals of all religions are welcome to try out the exquisite acoustics with religious songs of any tradition. Father Michel from Canada, who oversees the church, is very welcoming and "Frère Jacques" (preferably in French) sounds great; break between verses to let the echoes reverberate. Check the Via Dolorosa between the fourth and fifth Stations of the Cross for simple toys from the days when "Made in Japan" meant "Broken in 5 Minutes!" Lyne loves to shop here. Kanafeh (an ancient sweet cheese pizza) at Jaffar's Sweets on the Souk Khan es Zeit is a big hit.

Day 3: Jerusalem's New City

Visit the Israel Museum. Lyne's Picks: The ancient and modern objects that line the entrance path to the museum; the Children's Museum; the wall of Chanukah menorahs from all over the world in the Judaica Wing; and the Billy Rose Sculpture Garden filled with works by Picasso, Rodin, and others. For older children, the Bible Lands Museum, next to the Israel Museum, contains fascinating, interactive computer explanations of scarabs, ancient inscriptions, and brings ancient artifacts to life. Move on to the excellent Tisch Family Zoological Gardens. Have dinner at Ticho House, where there is a parklike garden for kids to run around in between courses.

Day 4: To the Galilee

Drive north through Jordan Valley. Stop to swim at Sachne, with its water park for kids; Belvoir Crusader castle; Hammat Gader hot springs, with its alligator farm, vast ruins of ancient baths, and a good Thai restaurant. Overnight at Kibbutz Ein Gev Resort in a family bungalow set in a date palm grove beside the Sea of Galilee. Take a swim in the lake, then dine at Ein Gev on incredibly fresh Saint Peter's fish.

Day 5: The Galilee

Swim in the lake at Ein Gev's beautiful beach before moving on to a family bungalow at Vered HaGalil Guest Farm in the hills overlooking the northern side of the Sea of Galilee. Explore nearby ruined Roman-era Jewish village of Korazim, then ride the quiet Galilee countryside on Vered HaGalil's beautiful horses (Lyne's Pick: a gentle, dark brown pony named Choco). Dine at Decks in Tiberias (where Lyne, usually not a meat eater, downed a baby lamb chop and some salmon perfectly grilled on citrus and olive wood fires). Lyne's Pick: Evening party boat on the Sea of Galilee, with everybody dancing to Israeli and Arabic music -- you get a free voucher with dinner at Decks!

Day 6: To Tel Aviv via Nazareth and Caesarea

Explore Nazareth Village with its replicas of biblical-era houses and synagogue; then head off to explore the vast seaside Roman and Crusader ruins at Caesarea, with its great multimedia presentation. Check into a beachfront hotel in Tel Aviv, before dining at Margaret Tayar's in Jaffa, which has acclaimed food, a fabulous vista, and is very informal, so kids can prowl around between courses. Take an evening stroll through romantic Old Jaffa.

Day 7: Tel Aviv

See the Eretz Israel Museum's exhibitions of living crafts, its planetarium, and ancient glass; there's a great museum shop for kids and adults. Lyne's Pick: The restored houses you can go into from 1100 B.C. For older kids, move on to the Diaspora Museum; for younger kids, try the wonderful drive through Safari Park. Take a late-afternoon Mediterranean swim. Dine on great hamburgers or chicken wings at Mike's Place; on sweet potato quiche at Shalvata, whose tables are actually in the sand; or have quality seafood for dinner at the beachfront Manta Ray in south Tel Aviv. Finish your day off with dessert at Max Brenner's Chocolate Bar. Lyne's Pick: Visit kosher Roy Chocolates, where by prearrangement, it is sometimes possible to do interactive Belgian chocolate making and sculpting.

Day 8: Back to Jerusalem

Stop at Mini Israel, located between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, where kids can explore miniatures of virtually every landmark they've visited in Israel. Stop off in Jerusalem for last-minute shopping and a goodbye dinner in West Jerusalem, or Lyne's Pick: Try the informal rooftop Papa Andreas Restaurant in the Old City, which has incredible vistas. Head off to Ben Gurion for a late-night flight home or overnight in Jerusalem and then fly home the next morning.

Lyne's Other Kid-Friendly Picks in Israel

Uri Buri (Akko) -- One of the few restaurants with gourmet food and an atmosphere relaxed enough to tolerate kids. Lyne loves Uri's calamari (chewy and no bones) and tender coquilles St. Jacques a la plancha.

Abu Christo (Akko) -- Because kids can feed pita bread to fish swimming in the sea from their table while parents eat the very fresh catch of the day.

Dan Carmel Hotel (Haifa) -- The energetic children's summer staff and evening entertainment captivated Lyne, and the swimming pool is deliciously warm by August. The Dan Hotels' children's clubs are excellent throughout the country.

Kibbutz Shefayim Guest House (north of Tel Aviv) -- Because it has a kid's water park and swimming pool with artificial waves and a sandy bottom. Lyne also likes walking along the wild cliff-side paths overlooking the Mediterranean and watching the sunset.

Alpaca Farm (Mitzpe Ramon) -- Because you can interact with these weird, gentle animals that are always ready to eat Alpaca snacks from your hands. Within an hour of leaving, Lyne felt we needed to go back to get more alpaca information for the guidebook.

Kibbutz Lotan (north of Eilat) -- Lyne was charmed by the inventive structures of natural and recycled materials, the sitting areas and solar teahouse in the organic fields, watching falling stars in the desert sky at night, and the swimming pool with a large shallow area.

Sheraton's Herods Palace Hotel (Eilat) -- Because it has the largest adult and children's pools in the country, as well as children's activities and staff that Lyne adored. Not at all stuffy, although it's the most deluxe hotel in Eilat. Manager Adi Maor, who has a good eye for what will delight children, has set up a new children's center at the less expensive, neighboring Sheraton Moriah Eilat.

Taybet Zaman Hotel and Resort (Petra) -- The entire Petra experience is exciting for kids. The unique Taybet Zaman hotel, created from a traditional Bedouin village, is charming and itself an interesting place to explore.