Side Trips

The Princes' Islands

The Princes' Islands are just a hop, skip, and a jump from Istanbul, and a well-received respite from the chaos and scorching sun of the city. The islands were originally used as a place of exile for members of the royalty and clergy during the age of Byzantium. It was later taken over by the more clever residents of the city as summer homes. The atmosphere is one of pure repose thanks to the prohibition against vehicles; the only form of transportation here (besides your own steam) is the characteristic and charming horse-drawn phaeton.

Thanks to the introduction of seabuses that shorten the ferry trip by an hour, the islands are only a half-hour away, making them an accessible retreat from city life.

Getting There -- Ferries departing from the docks behind Sirkeci Train Station cost 4YTL ($2.90) each way and make stops at Kinaliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada, and Büyükada. From Bostanci on the Asian side, you can get a ferry direct to Büyükada. Ferries run roughly every 65 minutes between 7am and midnight (7:30am-11:30pm on weekends; return times vary somewhat; ask for a current schedule at the tourist information office in Sultanahmet). Seabuses depart weekdays from Eminönü and Kabatas and make the trip to Büyükada in under 30 minutes (fare: 5YTL/$3.70), but there are only two scheduled departures per day, one at 8:45am and the other at 6:05pm. Return boats from Büyükada with through service to Eminönü depart at 7:30am and 4:45pm. There is no service to or from Eminönü on weekends or holidays. (Call the 24-hr. hot line at tel. 0212/516-1212 to confirm departure times.)

Exploring the Princes' Islands -- Thanks to the absence of vehicles other than the horse-drawn carriage, the islands have managed to retain their old-world charm. Horse-drawn carriages serve as local taxis, charging fixed rates from 5.50YTL ($4) to the nearest beach up to $26 for a grand tour of the islands. As expected, Istanbulers inundate the islands in the summer, looking to enjoy the characteristic architecture of the many clapboard mansions along with a relaxing day at the beach.

Big Island, or Büyükada, is the largest of the five islands and the one with the most to offer, including several good beaches, diving facilities, and the old hilltop monastery of Ayayorgi (St. George) from which you can see forever. To get to the monastery, take a carriage to Luna Park and take the 30-minute uphill path to Ayayorgi Peak, where you can sip their homemade wine while enjoying the panorama at the monastery's simple restaurant on the hill. To better appreciate what the islands have to offer, organize your excursion for a weekday, when the ferries are not packed like sardine cans and you can still get a glimpse of the sand beneath the blankets of the other sun worshippers. In the fall a stroll along the deserted cobblestone lanes met by the occasional donkey cart or a friendly pack of hopeful stray dogs transports you countless years back in time.

Kinaliada was the site of a major human rights infraction -- the Byzantines gouged out the eyes of and exiled Romanos Diogenes IV here for his defeat by the Selçuks in the Battle of Manzikert. The monastery built for the unfortunate general is still standing. The island was raided many times by pirates and later inhabited mainly by Armenians, but because of a harsh climate, it has attracted fewer people than the other islands. Electricity first came to the island in 1946, and it wasn't until the 1980s that the island received a water supply from the Municipality. Kinaliada is also the only one of the Princes' Islands without the services of the 19th-century phaetons.

Burgazada is the second of the Princes' Islands, originally settled as a Greek fishing village. In the 1950s the island attracted the wealthy Jews of Istanbul, who restored existing mansions or built their own. The island is also the home of a famous Turkish writer, Sait Faik, whose home has been turned into a museum. There are two swim clubs near the ferry landing, but if it's beaches you're after, you'll be better off on one of the other islands.

Heybeliada is the island closest to Büyükada and similar in character in that the natural beauty attracts boatloads of weekenders in the summer. The waterside promenade ensures a steady stream of visitors looking to avoid the crowds over on Büyükada, but aside from a few eateries, you'll have to make this a day trip or book a room on Büyükada anyway.

Where to Stay -- There are few experiences that top getting in a horse-and-buggy and arriving at a wooden palace. Fantasy becomes reality on Büyükada, the biggest of the islands but not so built up that you want to avoid it. The Hotel Splendid Palace, 23 Nisan Cad. (turn right at the Hotel Princess and drop your jaw at the white domed mansion on your left; tel. 0216/382-6950; fax 0216/382-6775; double in summer 120YTL ($90); American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa), is a palatial clapboard house with views of the Marmara with peaceful gardens, a private swimming pool, two restaurants, and an on-site patisserie. It's closed November through March. The disco next door may make you think twice, though. The Hotel Princess, Iskele Meydani 2 (straight up the street from the ferry landing on the right; tel. 0216/382-1628; fax 0216/382-1949; double 110YTL-160YTL ($80-$120), is a more modest but gracious seaside lodge, and is open year-round. Rooms are adequate although bathrooms are a bit tight, and there's a small pool overlooking the Marmara Sea for use in the summer months.

Those undeterred by the serenity of one of the smaller islands would do well to check out the Halki Palas, Refah Sehitleri Cad. 88, Heybeliada; tel. 0216/351-0025; fax 0216/351-0032; double from 135YTL/$100). This attractive wooden house may be isolated from civilization, but a highly recommended restaurant, an outdoor swimming pool, sauna, Jacuzzi, and garden more than make up for the loss. The hotel closes December through March.

Where to Dine -- Restaurants specializing in fish line the wharf to the left of the ferry landing, for breezy and atmospheric waterside dining. Birtat Restaurant, Gülistan Cad. 10, Büyükada (tel. 0216/382-1245), is one of the first waterside restaurants that you encounter as you make your way down the wharf, and there's really no need to go any farther. Milano Restaurant, Gülistan Cad. 8, Büyükada (tel. 0216/382-6352), just a few doors down, has been here for over 30 years, and is the most famous restaurant on the island. For a more modest meal, try the Yildizlar Caféteria, Iskele Cad. 2, Büyükada (tel. 0216/382-4360), actually a 100-year-old tea garden serving döner kebaps, grilled cheese sandwiches, and the Turkish fast-food favorite, lahmacun.

Polonezköy

Little more than an intersection in the road, the village itself has been designated as a national park. The bucolic setting, home to several restored Polish houses set on exquisite expanses of rolling hills, makes this a fashionable weekend getaway for residents of Istanbul or foreigners with a bit of spare time.

The origins of Polonezköy go back to the mid-19th century, when the Polish exile Adam Czartoriski lobbied Sultan Abdülmecid for the creation of a colony for Polish refugees, many of whom were fleeing from the invading Russians. The sultan granted these exiles permission to build a village in a forested area on the outskirts of Istanbul. The original settlement -- called Adampol after Czartoriski -- had only 12 residents.

The distinctive character of the town has attracted some foreigners with impressive credentials: Franz Liszt, Gustave Flaubert, and Lech Walesa all slept here, and even Pope John Paul II stopped in for a visit in 1994.

Getting There -- Getting to Polonezköy is pretty much impossible unless you have a car. To get there from the European side, drive across the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge north of the city and follow the highway to Beykoz, then take the turnoff for Polonezköy. It's about another 15 minutes through Turkish suburbia before you reach the winding forest road into the village; ask for directions frequently after the highway exit, as signage is sparse. (Total time from Taksim is about 30 min.)

Exploring Polonezköy -- This forested retreat is a perfect place to spend a weekend outdoors or an afternoon by the fire. A nature lover's path runs from near the Adampol Hotel through the woods, and most of the hotels have bikes for their guests. Best of all is the possibility to wander around town and negotiate the hire of a pony for an enjoyable, if not authentic, pastoral experience.

Where to Stay -- The recently restored Polka Country Hotel, Cumhuriyet Yolu 36 (tel. 0216/432-3220; fax 0216/432-3042; www.polkahotel.com), is rustic and romantic. A garden swimming pool enjoys pastoral hillside views, while in cooler weather stone fireplaces in several buildings encourage guests to rekindle the romance. A dry sauna is also tempting after a windy afternoon along the forest trails. The hotel is owned and operated by Hakan Ozan, an architect whose vision for the building is simple and tasteful. All rooms have telephones and TV, but try to nab one of the two top "penthouse" rooms, made slightly more rustic thanks to slanted roofs. (These also have air-conditioning,) Rooms are 100YTL ($74) on weekdays, 150YTL ($111) on weekends.

Where to Dine -- Continuing the village tradition, Leonardo Restaurant, Polonezköy 32, Beykoz (tel. 0216/432-3082), is the only restaurant in town to serve Polish food. It's also one of the few places you can get pork or even wild boar, but they also serve steaks, grills, and schnitzel at prices that hover around 14YTL ($10) per dish. The Sunday buffet lunch is a popular event as well, and costs around 18YTL ($13) per person with drinks. The restaurant is in the restored home of one of the first Polish immigrants and has a splendid outdoor garden for Indian-summer evenings.