Turkish food has long been at the forefront of international cuisine thanks to its use of the freshest produce and the incorporation of flavors from all of what was the Ottoman Empire. But just because an eatery bills itself as serving Ottoman cuisine doesn't mean your taste buds are going to explode. This is because many restaurants cater to tourists while keeping the menu lean and mean of anything really interesting. A week or two of grilled meat and you'll see what I mean. Lately, though, Istanbul has regained its place as a culinary destination with celebrity chefs from the U.K., the U.S., Sweden, Japan, and, of course, Turkey. The progressive kitchens led by these chefs are located north of the Golden Horn, but even without a visit to one of these cover-story kitchens, the better meals will be had up in the neighborhoods of Beyoglu, Besiktas, and along the Bosphorus, and will be shared alongside Istanbullus.
A Sweet Shop near Galata -- Wandering around the spice bazaar, you can really work up an appetite. Across the Galata Bridge at the Karaköy seaport is the humble (and famous) Güllüoglu (tel. 0212/244-4567) sweet shop, where you'll find the best börek -- a cheese- or meat-filled pastry that's feathery and delicious. They also keep their glass cases full of baklava.
Dining with a View -- Restaurant dining rooms resemble ghost town eateries in the summer, but if you just continue up the steps, you'll see why. Istanbul is a city of rooftop terraces, and summer dining is almost exclusively enjoyed high above the city accompanied by warm breezes and breathtaking panoramas.
On the Historic Peninsula
For the most part, 90% of the restaurants and eateries in the Old City are sadly lacking, and although you can forgive an eatery a less than stellar meal at lunchtime, I for one can't forgive the extortion. Instead, I recommend you sample the honest home cooking at the various innocuous lokantas (dives with steam tables), particularly along Piyer Loti Caddesi, between the Hippodrome and Cagaloglu and in the working streets around the Grand Bazaar, or grab a taxi to the restaurants I've recommended highly.
Another popular option is the neighborhood of Kumkapi, on the southern tip of the historic peninsula, a year-round carnival crammed with typical tavernas, which benefits directly from the fish market across the highway. Appropriately, Kumkapi translates to "sand gate." Pick the restaurant with the most people or the freshest looking fish, and hold on to your valuables, as the dimly-lit surrounding streets attract the worst petty thieves.
