Attractions

Istanbul is a city that has successfully incorporated a rich past into a promising future -- no small feat considering the sheer magnitude of history buried under those cobblestone streets. Three of the greatest empires in Western history each claimed Istanbul as their capital; as a result, the city overflows with extraordinary sites all vying for equal time. Conveniently, all of the top sights are located on or immediately around Sultanahmet Park, but that by no means is an indication that there's nothing worth seeing outside of that neighborhood.

700 Years of Turkish Jews

Jews visiting Turkey inevitably ask for a tour of a local synagogue, and as the default working temple in the heart of Galata, Neve Shalom is usually the first and only stop. While interesting to see (particularly after sustaining recurring terrorist attacks), a visit to Neve Shalom is far from the Holy Grail of Jewish sites in Istanbul. It's also not necessarily guaranteed, since a pre-visit request accompanied by a faxed copy of your passport is the minimum requirement for entry. I'd recommend instead the Jewish Museum of Turkey, located in the restored 19th-century Zulfaris Synagogue. The museum represents the vision of the Quincentennial Foundation (named for the 500-year anniversary of the Jewish expulsion from Spain) and showcases the peaceful coexistence of Jews and Turks in Turkey. The foundation's vision came to fruition in 2001 with this anthology of Jewish presence in Turkey beginning with the Ottoman conquest of Bursa, through Sultan Beyazit's invitation to those expelled from Spain, to the present day. The museum/synagogue is located at Karaköy Meydani, Perçemli Sok. (tel. 0212/292-6333; facing the lower entrance to the Tünel funicular, Perçemli Sokak is the first alley to your right; the museum is at the end of the street on your right). The museum is open Monday through Thursday 10am to 4pm, and Friday and Sunday from 10am to 2pm. Admission is 5YTL ($3.70).

Catch the Ottoman Mehter Band Outdoors

That must-see Ottoman Mehter Band that I tout so much no longer requires that you head over to the Military Museum in the middle of your day. There's now a performance every Friday, an hour and a half prior to noon prayers, right in front of the Eyüp Sultan Mosque. After the music and a visit to the mosque complex, hop onto the brand new cable car for the 2-minute ride up to the top of Pierre Loti Hill.

A Sweet Shop Near the Spice Bazaar

Wandering around the spice bazaar, you can really work up an appetite. Across the Galata Bridge at the Karaköy seaport is the humble (and famous) Güllüoglu (tel. 0212/244-4567) sweet shop, where you'll find the best börek -- a cheese- or meat-filled pastry that's feathery and delicious. They also keep their glass cases full of baklava.

See the Whirling Dervishes

The Sufi Music Concert & Sema Ceremony (ceremony of the Whirling Dervishes) is held on the first and last Saturday of the month at the historic Galata Mevlevihanesi, Divan Edebiyati Müzesi, Galip Dede Caddesi, at the end of Istiklal Caddesi in Tünel (tel. 0535/210-4565). From October to April the ceremony is at 3pm; from May to September it's at 5pm. Go 15 minutes early for a front-row seat in this finely decorated octagonal hall. If you miss this one, there's an alternative concert of Sufi Music and a Sema Ceremony every Tuesday and Saturday at 7:30pm in the open hall off platform no. 1 in the train station at Sirkeci (tel. 0216/449-9081; www.emav.org). Tickets are 25YTL ($19); the ceremony lasts about an hour. (Note: please call ahead to confirm showings, as schedules do change.)