Nightlife

Don't think that because Islam prohibits its followers from consuming alcohol that the Turks are listening. (Islam, particularly in Turkey, is not heavy-handed enough to force this rule on anyone, and is, in spirit, extremely forgiving.) A typical evening will involve large amounts of food accompanied by even greater amounts of raki, that aniseed-flavored spirit known as "lion's milk" -- traditionally consumed in a meyhane, a tavern or pub where patrons gather to eat and drink. Where meyhanes were once the realm of men only, today it's not uncommon to find a modern mixed crowd slinging a couple back with tasty mezes in the back streets of Beyoglu.

The saraphane or wine bar is the newest nightlife trend in Istanbul, a relatively recent institution that's thrived thanks to the ever-improving quality of Turkey's wines.

Live music is a staple of Turkish nightlife, and it will be harder to find a nice quiet cafe than one with evening offerings of overamplified music. Bars and cafes in Istanbul are generally not categorized according to the type of music they play, choosing to book instead groups with different styles from night to night. A good rule of thumb is, the earlier the hour, the softer the music. Rock and pop resounds onto Istiklal Caddesi, where bars, cafes, and clubs, a few of them seedy, are too numerous to cover. Another good rule is to avoid spots with neon lights and security guards and anything with the word "nightclub" or "club" in the name, as these have the reputation of being the seedy places where bad things happen to good visitors.

Clubs that book popular musical acts may sell tickets or impose a cover charge where normally there is none, but unless the headliner is very popular, tickets to most performing arts events and concerts can be purchased at the location the day of the performance.

Hotel lounges or rooftop bars provide a relaxing alternative to wall-to-wall smoke-filled cafes. In Sultanahmet, splendidly romantic views present themselves from almost every rooftop, or you can succumb to the dubious appeal of one of the several Turkish Night shows around town.

The neighborhood of Örtaköy comes to life, particularly on summer evenings, when streets lined with outdoor vendors selling crafts, jewelry, and the like create a festival-like atmosphere. Waterside restaurants and coffeehouses are open till late, or you can graze through the stalls of food and gorge yourself on stuffed mussels.

Safety for Single Men

Scenario #1: You're wandering around Taksim and pop into a bar for a quick beer or two. Before you know it, you're surrounded by lovely women and even doted on by the owner. But 2 hours and two beers later, the check arrives: $500. I wish that were a typo. Refuse to pay, and the big boys come out of the woodwork; you may even find your life and limb threatened. It's startling how many times this scenario plays out in seemingly innocuous looking "establishments" around Taksim. One way to counter, I suppose, is to dispute the charge with your credit card carrier once the bill comes in. But the best way to handle the situation is to avoid it altogether. Stay away from anything with neon and the word "nightclub" or "club" in the sign. But sadly, there is no absolute guarantee. When in doubt, follow the advice of this guidebook, or stick to the hotel bars.

Scenario #2: You're taking an innocent evening stroll through the back streets of Sultanahmet. Suddenly, you are accosted by four young boys who identify themselves as police. Having done nothing wrong and always mindful that you are in a foreign country, you cooperate. They manhandle you (perhaps looking for ID, or even drugs), then send you packing with a shove. It all happens so fast, except that now your wallet is empty. Unfortunately, with the migration of organized crime (most likely this band of thieves was alerted by an Oliver Twist-style manager who spotted you walking earlier), nowhere is safe anymore. Don't walk anywhere alone, and avoid badly lit streets after dark.

Istanbul Biennale 2007

Istanbul has been celebrating a Biennale since 1987, but it wasn't until 2005, perhaps because of the anchorage of the new Istanbul Modern Museum, that the Biennale hit a home run. Artists were clustered around the revived neighborhood of Galata in venues that included an old apartment block, a tobacco ware depot, a customs warehouse, and an office building. (Previous exhibitions were housed in the Imperial Mint, in the Kiz Kulesi [Maiden's Tower], on the Bosphorus P Bridge, and in Çemberlitas Hamami.

For information on venues, tickets, and artists, contact the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Art (tel. 0212/334-0700; www.iksv.org).