Getting Around

By Public Transportation

Transportation in Istanbul is like the Internet: It's anonymous, indispensable, and completely decentralized. Implemented with little thought of how one service might be integrated with another, the network of buses, minibuses, funiculars, ferries, catamarans, subways, trains, trams, and trolley cars will certainly get you where you're going, but you may have to take all of them to get there. For a quick reference guide to transportation in central Istanbul, turn to the inside front cover of this book.

A one-way ride, without a transfer, on the bus, tramway, historic trolley, funicular to Taksim, metro, or Istanbul City Ferry costs 1.30YTL ($1.15/50p). Note that the dolmus, the Tünel, and several of the ferry lines have their own prices. Each time you transfer lines or modes of transport, you have to pay again, although buying a transit pass will make it a bit easier.

Not sure how to get where you're going? The transport arm of the Istanbul municipality operates a great website, www.iett.gov.tr, where you can find all the routes for the whole range of transport options. You can also plug in your starting point to find out which public transport options stop there.

Transport Made Easy with the Akbil -- True to its name (Akbil means "smart ticket"), a refillable plastic contraption hanging from the key chains of Istanbul's commuters offers both convenience and savings for an initial deposit of 6YTL ($5.20/£2.30) plus the prepaid cost of travel. Keep your receipt so that you can get your deposit back before you leave. The buses, tramway, trolley, metro, and seabuses (not the ferries, which are privately owned) have been outfitted to accept the Akbil, available for purchase (and refills) at booths displaying the Akbil logo in Taksim Square, Eminönü, and Aksaray. In addition to the per-ride savings for trips requiring multiple transfers, the Akbil will get you a savings of around 10% per ride. And better still, one Akbil can be used by multiple travelers in a group. Pre-loaded Akbils can also be purchased daily (7.50YTL/$6.55/£2.85), weekly (40YTL/$35/£15), 15-day (60YTL/$52/£23), or monthly (100 YTL/$87/£40).

The Bus -- Metropolitan buses in Istanbul are frequent, comprehensive, economical, and easy -- if you know your way around. There is no bus map nor are the routes of any individual bus line depicted anywhere near the bus stops (usually your typical glass shelter with a metal bench). What you will find is a plaque at the bus stop with a list of the stops along the route. The bus's final destination is indicated above the front windshield, with a selection of major stops listed on the side of the bus next to the entrance (admittedly, not much help if you aren't familiar with the basic layout of the city). To help you navigate, we have provided a selection of the more useful bus routes on the inside front cover of this book. Still, always check with the driver before getting on to make sure the bus is going in the direction you need, and once boarded, frequently ask your neighbor when to get off. Some of the most useful major hubs are at Eminönü, Taksim, and Besiktas. Tickets are sold at the major hubs or on the bus -- if your bus doesn't have a "cashier" on board, there's an informal system whereby you can pay the driver, who will in turn hand you his own personal Akbil to use (this earns the driver about .05YTL per cash-paying customer). Buses run, roughly, from 6 or 6:30am until around 11pm or midnight.

The Dolmus -- Dolmuses are yellow minivans that operate like group taxis with set routes. A relatively informal system, dolmuses run from early morning to early evening daily, including Sundays. A dolmus will leave its terminus (marked with a blue "D") only when it fills up (the word dolmus means "stuffed") and then pick up and drop off passengers along the route. The main dolmus stands are located in Taksim, Sirkeci, and Aksaray, and connect to points all over the city. Dolmuses are often more direct than metropolitan buses and cheaper than taxis, cutting down on time and leaving more money in your pocket. Look for a dolumus with the name of your destination displayed in the window. When boarding, tell the driver your destination and ask how much it will be (ne kadar?). For shorter distances, 3YTL ($2.60/£1.15) should cover it. The driver will drop you off at your destination, but if you want to get off sooner, say inecek var (this is my stop) or inmek istiyorum, lütfen, the short version of "I want to get off" with a "please" stuck on the end.

The Tramway -- When the tram from Eminönü to Zeytinburnu was built and inaugurated in 1991, the planners had overlooked one very important detail: money collection. Passengers rode for free for 1 year while the system installed booths and printed tickets. The system has grown up quite a bit since then; the City recently extended the tramway from Eminönü all the way to Kabatas (just below Dolmabahçe Palace) and added an underground funicular that hoists passengers up the hill to Taksim in just 110 seconds. This collective service cuts trips between Taksim and Sultanahmet down to around 15 minutes (with transfers), while destinations in-between (Eminönü, for the Egyptian Spice Bazaar; Çemberlitas or Beyazit for the Grand Bazaar; Tophane for the Istanbul Modern) are just a token away. Token (jeton) booths are located at the entrance to the turnstiles; Akbils can be purchased/refilled at selected stops, including Sultanahmet, Eminönü, and Taksim. Hours of operation are from 6am until about midnight.

The Historic Trolley -- Just when you feel your feet are ready to fall off, you hear the jingle of the lifesaving streetcar. The trolley now plies fresh tracks on newly laid cobblestones along Istiklal Caddesi. As with most public transportation options, you can pay with cash or with the Akbil. The trolley runs daily from 7am to 11pm and makes three intermediary stops at Hüseyn Aga Camii, at Galatasaray High School/Flower-Fish Market, and in Beyoglu at Nutru Sokak (in front of the Turkiye Is Merkezi).

The Funicular -- The subway known as Tünel connects the sea level neighborhood of Karaköy near the Galata Bridge with the lofty neighborhood of Beyoglu at the southern end of Istiklal Caddesi. Tünel trains run Monday through Saturday from 7am to 9pm and Sunday from 7:30am to 9pm. The cost is 90Ykr.

A second funicular was completed in 2006, providing a much-needed lift to those down at the docks of Kabatas (near Dolmabahçe Palace) up the very steep hill to Taksim. The trip, which takes a fleeting 110 seconds, costs 1.30YTL ($1.15/50p). There's a ticket booth at the turnstile entrance dispensing jetons or refilling the Akbil.

The Metro/Underground -- Istanbul's modern underground currently connects Taksim with Levent (the closest stop to the shopping mecca of Akmerkez, which is an additional, short cab ride away). On the way it makes stops in Osmanbey (walking distance to Nisantasi), Sisli/Meçidiyeköy (commercial center), and Gayrettepe (even more commerce). The metro is open from around 6:30am until midnight. You can buy jetons at the ticket window outside the turnstile or, if you're using the Akbil, just plug it into the turnstile receptacle.

The metro extension connecting the airport to town is now complete, providing access at Yenikapi (just outside the airport) to Aksaray via a roundabout route by way of the otogar (bus station). If your destination is Sultanahmet, exit the metro at Aksaray ground level, transfer to the tramway (by paying the fare again), which is but a short walk away, and hop on any train marked EMINÖNÜ.

The Ferry & Seabus -- Istanbul City Ferry Lines, Sehir Hatlari Vapurlari (tel. 0212/244-4233; port offices: Bostanci tel. 0216/361-3087; Kabatas tel. 0212/243-3756; Kadiköy tel. 0212/336-2198), runs commuter ferry service between Europe and Asia, and to the nearby Princes' Islands. Some of the more useful shuttles depart from Eminönü to Kabatas, Üsküdar, Karaköy, and Haydarpasa; this last crossing is indispensable for transfers to the train and points east. A one-way fare to points within Greater Istanbul (not including the Princes' Islands, which is nominally higher) costs 1.30YTL ($1.15/50p), and you can pay with the Akbil.

The faster seabuses are run by the Istanbul Deniz Otobüsleri (IDO; national toll-free line tel. 0212/444-4436; www.ido.com.tr) and provide convenient service to the Asian side plus the Marmara Islands, Bursa, and Yalova. A one-way fare, for example, from Kabatas to Bostanci is 4.50YTL ($3.90/£1.70). Contact the port offices directly: Bakirköy tel. 0212/560-7291; Bostanci tel. 0216/410-6633; and Kabatas tel. 0212/249-1558.

The ferry that takes the time-honored cruise up the Bosphorus leaves from Eminönü, making stops at Besiktas (near Dolmabahçe Palace and the Çiragan Palace) on its crisscross pattern up the channel (7YTL/$6.10/£2.70 one-way; 12YTL/$10/£4.55 round-trip). The ferry departs daily, year-round at 10:35am. An additional 1:35pm departure operates from mid-April through November or December (confirm times, as they may change). Hours are posted on or near the ticket window.

Long-distance ferries or the faster seabuses provide transportation to the Princes' Islands (from Eminönü and Kabatas) and to points along the southern coast of the Marmara Sea. If you're interested in traveling by car to cities along the Marmara region (for example, Bursa, Çanakkale, Izmir, and points south), the easiest and quickest way is to take a car ferry or seabus from Yenikapi to Güzelyali or Mudanya (for Bursa) or Bandirma (for Çanakkale and the Northern Aegean). The trip takes 75 minutes and 1 hour, 45 minutes respectively.

Take a Quick Cruise -- Two years ago, a cheeky young entrepreneur set a crew of expert craftsmen to replicating a traditional sultan's imperial caïque, fake gild, velvet, and all. The result is a kitschy, and yes, delightfully touristy, ride up the Bosphorus the way the royals used to do it. Sultan Kayiklari (tel. 0212/265-7802; www.sultankayiklari.com) has expanded to three motorized boats (the oars are for show) and now operates three different tours. Instead of craning your neck over the side of a crowed clunker, a maximum of 30 passengers each get a front row seat to the turning of the Ottoman centuries, sea spray and all.

Two of the three tours on offer (the third is a "Palace Tour" for groups) are quick excursions of up to an hour, no stops allowed. Choose between the tour of the Straits from Dolmabahçe to the Bosphorus Bridge and back (58YTL/$50/£22) or of the Golden Horn (45YTL/$39/£17). Boats depart from different docks and have differing schedules; reservations are required.

For a do-it-yourself Bosphorus cruise, take the Istanbul Deniz Otobüsleri seabus departing from Eminönü Pier #3 (10:35am daily; and 1:35pm summers only) for the 2-hour, zigzagged excursion up to Anadolu Kavagi. The ferry makes stops at all of the main docks on both the European and Asian sides (10 each), giving passengers the option of dumping ship early. Many visitors stay on until the last stop at Anadolu Kavagi (which can now confidently be called a tourist trap) for lunch at one of the many fish restaurants. Avoid the crush and disembark at one of the lesser-visited (for now) villages such as Emirgan, Bebek, Kanlica, and Çengelköy; then either catch a direct ferry back or wait for the return of the ferry you started on (departs Anadolu Kavagi at 3pm year-round and at 5pm in summer as well). A one-way ticket on the ferry costs 7YTL ($6.10/£2.70); a round-trip costs 13YTL ($11/£4.75). For updated information and schedules, log on to www.ido.com.tr.

By Car

With traffic getting denser and more aggravating on an hourly basis, having a car in Istanbul is the surest method for going nowhere. In the rare event that traffic moves smoothly, do you really think you know where you're going? Can you read signs in Turkish? Do you know what a "Cevreyolu" is? And once you get there, where are you going to park? If you do decide to disregard better judgment and good counsel (and the fact that traffic-related enforcement in general in Turkey has become rather unforgiving, given the potential revenues), or if you're only planning to pick up the car and drive out, here's some basic information:

The major car-rental companies in Istanbul are Avis (www.avis.com), Sixt (www.e-sixt.com), Hertz (www.hertz.com), National (www.nationalcar.com), Budget (www.budget.com), and Alamo (www.alamo.com). All have desks at Atatürk International Airport, as well as at locations in town. Meanwhile, Hertz and Decar (www.decar.com.tr) have desks in the international terminal at Sabiha Gökcen Airport, while Avis has one in the domestic terminal. Check your national website (www.avis.co.uk) for deals; at press time, the price for a compact car was about $60/£30 per day.

By Taxi

Taxis are plentiful in Istanbul and are more likely to hail you than vice versa. Avoid taxis that congregate around the main tourist spots such as Topkapi Palace, Ayasofya, and at the cruise ship landing in Karaköy -- these are the ones adept at performing a bait-and-switch with large bank notes or setting the meter to the higher nighttime rates. Better to have your hotel call a cab for you, the agreement being that the hotel will continue giving the taxi stand business only as long as the drivers remain aboveboard (granted, not a fool-proof system). Similarly, when out and about, pop into the nearest hotel and have the receptionist call a taxi for you. A taxi from Sultanahmet to Taksim will cost between 10YTL ($8.70/£3.80) and 14YTL ($12/£5.30), depending on traffic levels and distance, while nighttime rates (midnight to 6am) are 50% higher.

Don't Let Taxi Drivers Take You for a Ride -- You give up a certain amount of control when entering a taxi in a strange city. Your safest bet is to have your hotel concierge phone for the taxi rather than you flagging it down. Under no circumstances should you hire a taxi off the street in front of the Ayasofya. Some hotels and taxi companies have agreements that award the company repeat business in exchange for honesty and accountability at no extra charge to the passenger. Still, the risk that absolute ignorance of a location will be rewarded with a circuitous route is fairly high. Knowing in advance that there's nothing you can do about it is usually enough to let you sit back and relax. But there still are a few things to look out for to avoid being scammed.

Check to see that the meter is running, and that the correct rate applies. The less expensive day rate (gunduz alternately flashes with the metered fare) applies from 7am to midnight, but crafty taxi drivers will push the night (gece) rate button to increase the fare. If you've caught a driver in the act, threaten to summon the police, or get out of the cab.

Beware of the "bait and switch" routine, whereby the driver takes your 10YTL bank note (worth about $8.70 or £3.80) and accuses you of having given him a 1YTL note. You can avoid this by holding on to the bank note until you've received your change. Also, note that 1YTL notes are blue-toned and 10YTL notes are orange.

For longer distances or drives outside of the city limits, taxis usually have a list of set rates. Be sure you've discussed these in advance, as you may be able to negotiate a discount (though it's doubtful). A final word: Don't get into a cab expecting bad things to happen. Just be a smart customer.