Neighborhoods in Brief

The sprawling muddle that is Istanbul-the-city comprises nearly 260 sq. km (100 sq. miles) of layered history spread over two continents. The city of Istanbul is part of the province of Istanbul -- think New York City, inside New York State -- allowing for a bit of confusion. But seeing as how this is a city guide, we will mainly concern ourselves with the four central districts of Beyoglu, Besiktas, Eminönü, and Fatih, plus throw in the highlights of the Bosphorus (both European and Asian sides).

The European and Asian sides of the city are bisected by the churning north-south artery that is the Bosphorus Straits. Strategic waterway and stuff of legends, the Bosphorus is the conduit for nations of the Black Sea into the coveted trade routes of the Mediterranean and beyond.

The European side of Istanbul is itself separated by the estuary known in English as the Golden Horn and in Turkish as the Haliç. Bordering the south of the Golden Horn are the districts of Eminönü and Fatih, neatly cinctured by what remains of the Byzantine-era defensive walls. These two districts make up the Historic Peninsula (aka Old Stamboul, Old Istanbul, and Rome of the East). To the north of the Golden Horn are Beyoglu and Besiktas, a hodgepodge of ancient and modern, of historic and progressive.

So as not to confuse you with a short description of every corner of Istanbul, it's important to know that neighborhoods generally bear the name of a major landmark, such as the mosque that serves the quarter, and that neighborhood delineations are anything but clear-cut. Below is a liberal selection of areas ranging from the "must see" to "off the beaten track," but this list is by no means exhaustive.

European Side: Old Istanbul

The Historic Peninsula, home to the remnants of Classical, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman eras, is now known as the modern-day district of Eminönü. The neighborhoods that live within the boundaries of the ancient city walls are oriented around the famed seven hills in a nearly 22 sq. km (8.5 sq. miles) area. Eminönü also refers to the neighborhood and transportation hub at the base of the Galata Bridge (a decided lack of creativity in naming ports, neighborhoods, districts, cities, and provinces is a running theme throughout Turkish geography and a source of consternation for visitors). This transport hub is where you'll find ferries to just about everywhere, a metropolitan bus and dolmus hub, the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, the Yeni Valide Camii (New Queen Mother's Mosque), and Rustem Pasa Mosque, as well as a frenetic warren of passageways and back streets that wind their way uphill through local shops to the Grand Bazaar. Just steps to the east of Eminönü's transport hub is the Sirkeci train station (final stop of the legendary Orient Express), a bustling and utilitarian hub of people with places to go. As expected, it's easy to find comparatively affordable food and lodging around this neighborhood as opposed to the more popular and adjacent neighborhood of Sultanahmet. The easternmost tip of the peninsula known as Sarayburnu or Seraglio Point (literally, palace point) is where Topkapi Palace presides over the strategic convergence of the Marmara Sea, the mouth of the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn.

At the heart of the district of Eminönü is the neighborhood of Sultanahmet, centered around the Hippodrome -- ancient racetrack, political arena, and present-day commons. Anchoring the historic center of the city are the Blue Mosque and the Ayasofya, two massive and magnificent edifices challenging each other from opposite ends of Sultanahmet Park. Bordering Sultanahmet to the southeast is the as-of-yet still characteristically residential quarter of Cankurtaran, named for the train station stop at Ahirkapi Gate and, for all intents and purposes, absorbed under the umbrella heading of Sultanahmet.

To the southwest of Sultanahmet along the Marmara Sea and along the ancient Sea Walls is Kumkapi, destination of the daily catch by local fishermen, location of the city's fish market, and home to a dense cluster of touristy fish restaurants.

Eminönü is divided by the main avenue of Divanyolu (whose name changes to Yeniçeriler Caddesi and then Ordu Caddesi as it runs westward to the district of Fatih). Paving what was formerly the ceremonial entrance to the Great Palace, Divanyolu begins (or ends, if you were the emperor) at Sultanahmet Park, running westward through the neighborhoods of Çemberlitas, former site of the Forum of Constantine and close to the Nuruosmaniye entrance to the Grand Bazaar; Beyazit, built on the ruins of the Forum of Theodosius and named for the Beyazit Mosque Complex; and Laleli. North and west of Beyazit is the neighborhood of Süleymaniye, named after the mosque complex of the same name.

Back at Divanyolu (now Ordu Caddesi), the road splits just as it enters the district of Fatih at Aksaray. The tramway, which follows Divanyolu, continues along the southernmost avenue (Millet Caddesi, aka Türgüt Özal Caddesi), while the northern fork becomes the major thoroughfare of Vatan Caddesi (aka Adnan Menderes Bulvari).

The district of Fatih is named after the Fatih Mosque and complex built by and for Mehmet the Conqueror immediately after the conquest. It was constructed on the site of the Havariyun, the second-most revered Byzantine church after the Ayasofya, which was the victim of earthquakes and fire. The prominence of the district in both the Byzantine and Ottoman eras can be credited with the great number of monuments that dot this now bustling working-class conglomeration of diverse and authentic (and yes, some fundamentalist) neighborhoods.

From north to south beginning at the Golden Horn are the twin quarters of Balat and Fener, Ottoman-era enclaves where Armenian, Greek, and Jewish immigrants first settled. This combined quarter is thick with the crumbling remains of monumental Byzantine palaces, synagogues, schools, and mosques and is even the home of the Eastern Orthodox Patriarchate.

Several of the defunct Byzantine defensive gates continue to exert their influence on the surrounding neighborhoods that now bear these names: Edirnekapi, which is the gateway to the Church of Saint Savior in Chora or Kariye Camii; and Ayvansaray, which sits at the base of the Old Galata Bridge near the remains of the Blachernae Palace and sections of the land walls.

Fatih's southeastern-most point is the busy port of Yenikapi, departure point for seabuses to Bursa, the Marmara Islands, and the southern shores of the Marmara Sea. Yenikapi is the site of the construction of one of the metro stations for the in-progress Marmaray project, made famous for the extraordinary archaeological discoveries being made there.

Following the southern Marmara Sea shoreline is the Sahil Yolu (or the coastal road); this main thoroughfare connects the Old City with the airport and suburbs. The last neighborhood of interest as the road heads out of Fatih is Yedikule (literally, seven towers), the fortress constructed by Fatih Mehmet the Conqueror incorporating the earlier Theodosian land and sea walls. Almost no one goes to this neighborhood or museum, which is why you should go. Fewer and fewer places like this can be found in Istanbul these days.

While not within the district boundaries laid out above, I need to mention one more neighborhood on the southern banks of the Golden Horn. Located just northwest of the Haliç Bridge (above Fener and Balat) is the quarter of Eyüp, named for the Prophet Mohammad's warrior companion and standard-bearer, and one of the holiest figures in Islam, Eyüp Sultan. Tradition holds that Eyüp was slain in battle on this hill, and the site, marked by a mosque complex and tomb, is now a point of pilgrimage for Muslims.

European Side: Beyoglu, Besiktas & the Bosphorus Villages of Europe.

If the Old City is the jewel of Empires, then the landmass on the opposite side of the Golden Horn is its crown.

The fairly unwieldy district of Beyoglu, which also straddles the centuries, is subdivided, at least colloquially, into a mosaic of characteristic quarters, with slightly more modern layers of historic, cultural, religious, and political reference than those on the other side of the Golden Horn. This triangle of Istanbul is connected to the Old City by the Galata Bridge (at Eminönü and the opposite port of Karaköy) and via the Atatürk Bridge.

The fortified area between the Atatürk and Galata bridges and extending up from the shoreline to the Galata Tower encloses one of Istanbul's more characteristic (and now gentrified) neighborhoods -- known as Galata. Istanbul's earliest (pre-classical) settlements were found in and around Galata, today a hodgepodge of steeply sloping streets radiating from the Galata Tower. Where Karaköy and Galata merge, you'll find a wealth of architectural monuments left by the European communities that thrived here during the Ottoman period, as well as a small community of street urchins and -- on the fringes -- at least one brothel.

At the bottom of Galata Hill (and technically absorbing it) is Karaköy, a functionally messy and exhilarating transport hub worth a visit for its local eateries along with a number of significant monumental Ottoman constructions. Recent additions include the Istanbul Modern, as well as the leafy tea gardens and waterpipe cafes of Tophane.

At the summit of Galata Hill is Tünel, which also refers to the very short and very old one-stop funicular called Tünel. To make matters worse, both the upper and lower entrances of the funicular are called Tünel; thus, to avoid confusion, I refer to the area around the upper entrance as Upper Tünel and the lower as Lower Tünel or Karaköy.

Radiating around Upper Tünel (a part of Beyoglu also referred to specifically as Beyoglu) are the turn-of-the-century Belle Epoque buildings -- including a high density of foreign consulates -- of 19th-century Pera. Pera recalls a bygone era of wealth, entitlement, and gaiety. Today, strolls along the previous Grand Rue de Pera have evolved into a nightly crush of humanity walking up and down the same artery now known as Istiklal Caddesi.

Lining the slopes southeast of Istiklal Caddesi is the steep-stepped Renaissance quarter of Cihangir. Alternating antique and artistic shops can be found on and around Cukurcuma. These combined neighborhoods attract artists, diplomats, expat journalists, and just plain commuters to its streets full of gentrified cafes, restaurants, bars, and antique boutiques.

If Beyoglu is the heart and soul of modern Istanbul, then Istiklal Caddesi is its lifeline. This hectic shopping street bisects the district north from Tünel to the modern, pulsating, chaotic nucleus of the city known as Taksim Square, Istanbul's equivalent to New York's Times Square. Standing at the center is a statue of Atatürk and the founding fathers of Turkey, representing on one side the War of Independence and on the other the Republic. The Atatürk Cultural Center (Atatürk Kültür Merkezi) houses the Istanbul State Opera and Ballet, and serves as a sometimes venue for the Biennale; there is talk of tearing the hideous but much-loved building down. The area is yet another commuter hub, city commons, business center, and open-air food court. A concentration of full-service, high-rise hotels targeting businesspeople makes the area around Taksim a perfect place for bustle and convenience. The location is also connected to a transportation network that includes the metro, a recently restored cable car/tramway along Istiklal Caddesi, a plethora of municipal buses, and a daunting network of dolmuses (minibuses).

As the city, even the country's, center, Taksim Square and the neighborhoods on its fringe are thickly dotted with nightclubs, seedy bars, and Internet cafes, attracting the indigents and pilferers of Istanbul. The pre-gentrified neighborhood of Tarlabasi, located on the opposite side of Tarlabasi Caddesi, is home to a high density of crumbling architectural gems, but it's also where you'll find Istanbul's subculture of transvestites, criminal indigents, and prostitutes, newly displaced from the now-hip neighborhood of Cukurcuma. Steer clear for now, but watch this space, as the Municipality (and real estate investors) have their sights eagerly set on this neighborhood.

The city gets increasingly more elite the farther north of Taksim you go. Immediately to the north (and inland) of the square is the business district of Harbiye, which sidles up to the fashionable shopping neighborhood of Nisantasi, a pleasant cross between New York's SoHo and Madison Avenue (this is technically in the district of Sisli, but never mind). Boutiques along Tesvikiye Caddesi and the smaller side streets are stocked with high-quality merchandise in elegant settings, with major names like Mudo, Emporio Armani, Vakko, and Beyman.

Maçka can be considered Istanbul's Wall Street, while the neighborhoods become more residential the farther away from Taksim you go.

Besiktas-the-district refers to the Bosphorus-front real estate above Beyoglu, made popular by a long string of sultans, pasas, and empresses who constructed European-style palaces all along the historic Straits, including the Dolmabahçe, Yildiz, and Çiragan palaces. The better hotels are scrambling for this real estate; the new Four Seasons will be open by the time this book hits the stands, while the stylish new Radisson SAS has already established itself as a favorite. Like Eminönü, Besiktas is also the neighborhood of a bustling shopping, port, and transport hub.

To the north is the uptown village with the downtown feel -- Ortaköy, which sits at the base of the Bosphorus Bridge.

The waterfront northward becomes a picturesque chain of fishing coves transformed into bourgeois residential neighborhoods as far north as the Black Sea mouth of the Bosphorus. These include Aravutköy, Bebek, Rumeli Hisari, Emirgan, Istinye, Tarabya, Sariyer, and Rumeli Kavagi. You can visit these by hopping on a local bus or sightsee from the bow of a Bosphorus ferry.

The Asian Side

The Asian side is a quiet and predominantly upper-class residential area that, incredibly, has more European character than the layered exoticism predominant on the European side. The districts of Kadiköy and Üsküdar, interspersed with a smattering of architecturally outstanding mosques, monuments, and synagogues, cover a lot of territory worthy of a student of architecture, but nothing so remarkable that you need to forfeit a day on the opposite shores. Many visitors include a midday stop at Anadolu Kavagi halfway through a Bosphorus cruise for lunch and perhaps a walk up to a panorama of both the Marmara and Black seas. Unfortunately, the charm of this characteristic fishermen's village has recently been compromised by summer tourists all descending with the same idea.

The tree-lined shopping section along Bagdat Caddesi is frequently touted as a destination, but frankly has nothing exceptional to offer a foreigner accustomed to a cosmopolitan shopping day out.

Still, visitors insist. Beylerbeyi Sarayi, the summer palace of the sultans, commands the right banks of Üsküdar above the Bosphorus Bridge. Combine a visit to Beylerbeyi with lunch at one of the most charming boat landings (Çengelköy, famous for its cucumbers and persimmons, or Kanlica, where people flock for yogurt from heaven), or on Tuesdays spend a few hours wandering through the Sali Pazari ("Tuesday Bazaar" near the Kadiköy landing), and you can tell everyone you spent the afternoon in Asia.

Because of the phenomenal views from the newer hotels (which also provide complementary boat shuttle service to the European side), Asia might actually be a reasonable place to hang your hat, particularly if it's a wedding veil.