See the Whirling Dervises -- The Sufi Music Concert & Sema Ceremony (ceremony of the Whirling Dervishes) is held on the second and last Sunday of the month at the historic Galata Mevlevihanesi, Divan Edebiyati Müzesi, Galip Dede Caddesi, at the end of Istiklal Caddesi in Tünel (Ticket office: tel. 0535/210-4565; foundation office: tel. 0542/422-1544; www.emav.org). From October to April, the ceremony is at 3pm; from May to September it's at 5pm. Go early for a front-row seat in this finely decorated octagonal hall. If you miss this one, an alternative concert of Sufi Music and a Sema ceremony take place every Monday and Thursday at 7:30pm in the open hall off platform no. 1 in the Sirkeci train station (tel. 0212/458-8834). Tickets are 30YTL ($26/£11); both ceremonies last about an hour. (Note: Please call ahead to confirm showings, as schedules do change.)