The fastest way to the heart of a culture is through its stomach, and often the culture of food begins on the street. While this book provides some council on what to avoid, I rarely take my own advice and simply can't think of anything I'd rather do in Istanbul than noshing through its bustling streets (if they're not bustling, it might be better not to eat there).
Morning rush hour in Turkey wouldn't be the same without the sound of the neighborhood simitçi hawking his wares. A simit is a savory sesame covered pastry much like a bagel, only thinner (the simitçi being the guy who sells simit). I've always frequented the guy who stakes out his spot daily on the small triangle of sidewalk located at the entrance to Bankalar Sok., in Karaköy. Ask for a packet of peyner (cheese), the equivalent of a do-it-yourself schmeer.
Down the street at the Karaköy Pier is the humble (and famous) Güllüoglu sweet shop, where you'll find the best su boregi -- a buttery cheese- or meat-filled flaky pastry that's feathery and delicious, and a frequent staple of the Turkish breakfast. Güllüoglu also keeps their glass cases full of baklava. Grab a slab to go and munch on this buttery wonder outside on a bench by the cruise ship docks.
All day long, vendors cloaked in Ottoman dress man the helm of boats bobbing wharfside at Eminönü, greeting arriving commuters and locals with grilled fish on a roll. It's fresh, quick, authentic and at 3YTL ($2.60/£1.15), cheap. The Tarihi Eminönü Balikçisi is the original.
On your stroll along Istiklal Caddesi or through the Balikpazari (Galatasaray Fish Market), you'll be hard-pressed not to be distracted by the odors coming from the few fast-food vendors displaying döner kebap (shwarma) on a vertical spit or oversize shallow pans full of cubed meat. The latter is tantuni, stir-fried beef cubes served in a wrap. Sounds pretty unspectacular, but it's anything but.
Up in Ortaköy, stands displaying heaps of diced meats and vegetables, condiments and spreads, and ready-made salads line the street leading from the main road to the pier. These goodies are actually filling for potatoes (called kümpir). All you have to do is point at the things you want (some of which may be a bit of a stretch for a potato topping). Just grab a plastic fork (provided) and stake out a seat on a waterfront bench. For those with culinary abandon or simply stomachs of steel, those stuffed mussels on offer opposite the potato stands are actually quite delicious. Admittedly, though, these require a great leap of faith.
The seasons also usher in or out some street-food staples. In summer, corn-on-the-cob corpses dot the Emonönü wharf; in winter, chestnuts roast on open fires around town.
