Turkish Nights
In spite of mediocre food and high prices, visitors continue to insist on a "traditional" Turkish folkloric show. Inevitably there's a belly dancer and perhaps a segment resembling a Cossack dance, but aside from a few minutes of Anatolian folk dance, these shows are geared toward tourists and have more in common with former sultans' tastes for exoticism than with typically Anatolian culture. The most popular folklore show in town is the one at the Orient Hotel, Tiyatro Cad. 27, Beyazit (near the Grand Bazaar; tel. 0212/517-6163); dinner starts at 8pm and the show goes on until midnight. The cost is 100YTL ($75) per person. Another popular venue is the Turkish night in the historic Galata Tower (tel. 0212/293-8180). If you get bored, the wonderful panoramic view of Istanbul is sure to perk you right up. The show runs Monday through Saturday and includes dinner. The cost is 100YTL ($7, or 60YTL ($45) for the show only.
An alternative to the contrived spectacle of these "Turkish Nights" is the Dances of Colors ensemble, presenting authentic Anatolian and Turkic dances in a staged setting (not to be confused with the highly publicized traveling Sultans of the Dance troupe). The performance lasts 1 hour and 15 minutes with a short intermission and takes place twice weekly (Tues at 5:15pm and Fri at 7pm) in summer; in winter performances are Fridays only. At 34YTL ($25), tickets are a bit more than the show warrants, but that's the price you pay for avoiding kitsch. For information and tickets, contact the organizers through the Cordial House Hotel (tel. 0212/517-8692); performances are held at the FKM/Firat Kültür Merkesi (corner of Divanyolu and Peykhane Sok. (Çemberlitas tram stop).
There's also the nightly (in summer) sound-and-light spectacle at the entrance to the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet Park. The show has a charming spontaneous feel, and accommodates visitors from round the globe by scheduling shows on a schedule of rotating languages. For information, see the Tourist Information Office in Sultanahmet Park (Sultanahmet Meydani; tel. 0212/518-1802).