Shopping A-Z

Antiques & Collectibles

Objects dating to the Ottoman period make up a popular category for roving antiquers. As a rule, all items displayed can be legally purchased and exported to your home country (unless the piece is unique, in which case you need documentation from a museum director to buy it). Objects dated prior to the Ottoman period are considered fruit from the poisonous tree. Where carpets are concerned, the cutoff is 100 years -- you'll need a certificate from the shopkeeper stating the age, origin, and authenticity of the carpet. (This is standard practice anyway.) So if you're serious, your first stop should be the neighborhood along Çukurcuma in the extremely hilly neighborhood below Beyoglu and Taksim. Galeri Alfa, Faikpasa Yokusu 47/2, Çukurcuma (tel. 0212/251-1672), has limited-edition tin toy soldiers, inspired by several hundred years of the Ottoman Empire as well as by models from abroad. Galeri Alfa also deals in rare books and prints.

Ottomania, Sofyali Sok. 30-32 (exit Tüel and walk straight through the gated courtyard; tel. 0212/243-2157), specializes in high-quality old maps and engravings. To get there you'll pass by Artrium (Tünel Geçidi 7; tel. 0212/251-4362), stocking oldish ceramics, textiles, costume jewelry, and printed matter. In the nearby Ottoman Miniatures & Calligraphy, Istiklal Cad. 6 (tel. 0212/251-1966), pointing is going to be your best means of communication if you're in the market for rare Ottoman and Islamic prints, or a superb original framed tugra.

Ziya Antiques, Utangaç Sok. 21, Sultanahmet (tel. 0212/638-5328), displays an eclectic mix of old paraphernalia dating to the Ottomans, from wall hangings to traditional kilims and lace, to objects such as watch fobs, eyeglasses, and a 470YTL ($350) Russian samovar.

Books

The Book Bazaar, on Sahaflar Çarsisi (enter from Çadircilar Caddesi), is a wonder of the printed page. Vendors carry books on Turkish subjects ranging from art to architecture to music, both old and new. Also, some of the finest examples of Ottoman art and calligraphy can be found in this book lover's mecca.

For books in English (as well as other foreign languages), root around the many bookstores near Tünel in Beyoglu. The Hilton Hotel in Harbiye houses an outlet of the Dünya Aktüel Kitabevleri franchise (tel. 0212/233-0094), which stocks a small selection of Turkish-interest books along with souvenirs and international magazines. Down the street from the Galatasaray High School is Homer Kitabevi, Yeni Çarsi Cad. 28/A (tel. 0212/249-5902), stocking a great selection of Turkish-interest books on topics of history, architecture, photography, travel, Islam, and modern issues. Farther down Istiklal Caddesi at no. 389 is the more fashionable Robinson Crusoe (tel. 0212/251-1735), with a decent but limited selection of English-language fiction, travel guides, and books on Istanbul and Turkey. Beyoglu Kitabevi, Istiklal Cad. 388C (not far from the Tünel streetcar stop; tel. 0212/249-8244), stocks cassettes, videos, travel books, maps, and research materials, in addition to a good selection of English-language teaching materials for visitors looking to subsidize an extended stay.

Sultanahmet is littered with souvenir bookshops, the most notable being Galeri Kayseri, Divanyolu 58 (tel. 0212/512-0456) with a branch across the street at No. 11, which carries every book imaginable on Turkey. Aypa, Mimar Mehmet Aga Cad. 19 (across from the Arasta Bazaar in Sultanahmet), carries all the foreign papers; the owner also produces and sells souvenirs like magnets, artistic cards, and other useless-yet-must-have paraphernalia. Aypa's owner, Aykut, recently opened a branch in Nakkas (Nakilbent Sokak 33; tel. 0212/516-5222), a veritable millionaire's warehouse of carpets, ceramics jewelry, and books (tel. 0212/516-0100). Here you will find a great selection of books on Turkish art, ceramics, history, religion, and the Ottoman Empire, some rare or limited editions. Balkaya Insaat (tel. 0212/528-0505), located at the exit to the Yerebatan Cistern, also carries an interesting mishmash of texts and tourist publications on Turkey.

Carpets

When in Istanbul my days are filled with powwows with carpet dealers proud to show me the thank-you letters received from Washington, D.C., insiders, foreign dignitaries, and vacationing journalists. I could easily list a handful of stores where I go regularly for a cup of tea, but that wouldn't be fair to the shop owners that I have yet to meet. And just because I gave my business card to someone as a courtesy in passing doesn't mean that I endorse his (and in the rarest of cases, her) shop.

Finding an honorable carpet seller is even more elusive than tracking down an honest car mechanic. In a country where the minimum wage produces between 80YTL ($60) and 340YTL ($250) per month, the business of selling carpets promises the equivalent of the American Dream, attracting the ambitious and sometimes immoral on the trail of easy money. This doesn't diminish the value of the carpets; it just creates a potentially unpleasant atmosphere for buying one.

It's not always about selling fakes, although this does happen; more often it's simply about selling a piece for the maximum profit margin. Go informed, then once arrived, be extremely suspect of any claims or "insider information" made to gain your confidence. Ultimately, you should purchase what you like, make your purchase where you feel comfortable, and pay a price you feel comfortable with. (Tip: Leave those priceless antiques to those who really know what they're worth, and check out the carpet section in IKEA to make sure you can't get it cheaper at home.)

Dösim Turkish Handwoven Carpets Sale Center (in the Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamami, entrance across from the Ayasofya; tel. 0212/638-0035) is a sort of collective operated by the Turkish Republic Ministry of Culture. Works by artists and craftspeople are commissioned independently and sold at fixed prices in a highly evocative setting. There are several outlets in Sultanahmet alone; the Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamami displays carpets, kilims, and camel bags only. The gift shop in the entrance courtyard of Topkapi Palace and the one outside the main gate stock a good variety of items, including meerschaum, kilims, pottery, jewelry, and memorabilia.

Other locations are in Izmir at the airport and at Cumhuriyet Boulevard 115 (tel. 0232/483-0789); in the Göreme Open Air Museum in Cappadocia (tel. 0384/271-2286); inside the Aspendos theater outside of Antalya (tel. 0242/735-7038); in the Antalya Museum on Konyaalti (tel. 0242/243-1604); and in the Bodrum Castle (tel. 0252/316-2516). And lately, several of the stores are stocked with an array of high-quality baubles representative of Anatolian culture, in addition to their collection of regional carpets, kilims, and tribal pieces. These reproductions of traditional tribal designs may not be silk or antiques, but if those greedy capitalists in the Grand Bazaar have either turned you off or priced you out of owning one of theirs, Dösim will leave your floors tastefully covered at (fixed) prices. Sadly, prices have almost tripled on identical items since they first opened, so it's definitely worth the effort of bargaining elsewhere.

Caveat Emptor! Carpet-Buying Tips -- "Where are you from?" seems an innocuous enough question from a carpet dealer, but answer it, and you're on your way to being scalped. Questions like "Where are you staying" actually tell the salesperson about your economic status, as do "What do you do?" (How much money do you earn?), "Where do you live?" (Hey what a coincidence! My cousin lives near you!), "How much time will you be staying here?" (How much time do you have before you have to make your final decision?), "What are you looking for" (Do you even have any idea about carpets?), and "How long have you been here?" (How much have you already learned about our sleazy ways?).

First rule of thumb: Lie about where you're staying. Take note of the name of the humblest pension near to your actual hotel, and file it away for future use. Also, they know that Americans are the biggest spenders of any other nationality visiting Turkey, so this is where fluency in a foreign language may come in handy. Above all, do your homework., and know what you like before you arrive so you don't waste precious bargaining time overpaying for the "best sample in the shop."

Visitors traveling in groups inevitably wind up at a large roadside production center. Although these are interesting from an educational and cultural point of view, don't be had: your tour guide, your tour company, and hell, the bus driver, are going to each earn a hefty commission off of your sale. (Actually, the same commission system applies to almost everything you buy.)

Once you find yourself in the shop, the seller will begin the show of rolling out one stunning sample after another, educating you in the history, cultural significance, and processes of the art of carpet weaving.

Turkish tribal rugs are divided into kilims, which are flat, woven rugs, and carpets, which are hand-knotted using a double or Gordian Knot, a technique unique to Anatolia that results in a denser, more durable product than the single-knotted carpets found abroad. Kilims are probably more recognizable, as they are inexpensive and sold abroad.

There are four types of carpets produced currently in Turkey. Wool-on-wool carpets represent the oldest tradition in tribal rugs. The earliest examples display geometric designs using natural dyes that were reliant on local resources like plants, flowers, twigs, and even insects, so that the colors of the carpets reflected the color of an individual region. Blues and reds are typical of designs originating around Bergama, which derive from the indigo root and local insects. Reds seem to be dominant in carpets made in Cappadocia.

Today the business of carpet weaving has been transformed into a mass industry. Weavers have for the most part switched over to chemical-based dyes, although the trend toward organic dyes is experiencing a rebirth.

The second type of carpet is the highly prized silk-on-silk samples, which developed in response to the Ottoman Palace's increasing desire for quality and splendor. Silk was a precious commodity imported from China that few could afford. In the 19th century the sultan established a royal carpet-weaving center at Hereke that catered exclusively to the palace. Today silk-on-silk rugs continue to outclass all others, using silk from Bursa woven into reproductions of traditional designs. (FYI: Silk threads cannot hold natural dyes, so all those splendid pieces use chemical dyes.) Silk rugs are also produced in Kayseri, but these fail to attain the high standards set by the Herekes.

A more recent development in carpet production has been the wool-on-cotton, which, because of the lower density of the weft, accommodates a higher ratio of knots per inch, and therefore more detail in the design. Cotton-on-cotton is an even newer invention, duplicating the resolution and sheen of a silk rug without the expense.

Sales tactics include an emphasis on Anatolian carpet and kilim weaving as a high art. This certainly applies to rare and older pieces, which command hefty sums. But modern samples -- albeit handmade copies of traditional designs -- are created from computerized diagrams. Don't be brainwashed into paying the high price of art when the artist -- typically a local woman -- earns a shockingly low wage (and the salesperson drives a BMW or Mercedes).

For antiques: Unless you're an expert, you should avoid buying antique rugs, which cost significantly more. The bottom line is that only antique experts are equipped for a proper appraisal.

Yes, buying a carpet in Turkey can be a very daunting task. But this is not meant to diminish your admiration of the pieces, only arm you for the negotiations, which ultimately will get you an exceptional souvenir of a wonderful country and its wonderful crafts.

Ceramics

The Istanbul Handicrafts Center, Istanbul Sanatlari Çarsisi (tel. 0212/517-6780), has a choice collection of precious ceramic and porcelain reproductions from Kütahya and Iznik. Kevser, an eye-catching boutique at Muallim Naci Cad. 72 in Ortaköy (tel. 0212/327-0586), has fine ceramic pieces as well as a variety of gift items. The Iznik Foundation's branch at Kuruçesme Öksüz Çocuk Sok. 14, Besiktas (tel. 0212/287-3243), sells valuable Iznik reproductions composed of up to 80% quartz and colored with true-to-the-original pigments. Prices for these pieces are slightly higher at Iznik Tiles in the Arasta Bazaar (tel. 0212/517-1705), and at Nakkas, located down the hill from the Hippodrome (Nakilbent Sokak 33; tel. 0212/516-5222) but you'll at least save yourself the cost of transportation up to the foundation showroom.

Copper

If you simply have to have a set of those white copper hamam bowls or a copper platter for a table a la Turque, head to Çadircilar Caddesi past the entrance to the book bazaar (near the Grand Bazaar). Head to May Galeri in the upscale neighborhood of Nisantasi (Süleyman Nazif Sok. Vali Konagi Cad.) for a more artistic presentation. That is, if you can't wait to get to Ankara.

Crafts

In another commendable preservationist project, the Touring and Automobile Club of Turkey has provided an outlet for the revival of Turkish and Ottoman crafts. Each room off the central courtyard of the Istanbul Handicrafts Center, Istanbul Sanatlari Çarsisi (tel. 0212/517-6780), formerly a restored 17th-century medrese on Kabasakal Caddesi (the side street next to the Dervis Tea Garden and across from the Blue Mosque), serves as an atelier for a different craft. Here you can watch the creation of handmade treasures, including hand-painted silks, folk art dolls and puppets, gilded calligraphy and miniatures, fine porcelain reproductions, and modern examples of the art of ebru, or marbled paper. The center is open year-round, although you may have to knock on some doors to get a personal shopping tour during the off season. Better yet, their fixed pricing takes the guesswork out of buying. Evihan (Altipatlar Sokak 8; tel. 0212/244-0034), in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Çukurcuma, carries handmade artistic pieces made using Turkish tiles and hand-blown glass beads.

Pasabahçe has recently begun making a name overseas for its elegant ceramics, hand-cut glass, and typically Ottoman tableware. The nationwide chain has a centrally located shop on Istiklal Cad. 314, in Beyoglu (tel. 0212/244-5694).

Department Stores & Chains

So you've packed for warmer weather and the winds from the Caucasus have arrived a bit early. Head for these chains, located along Istiklal Caddesi in Istanbul, though you'll find them in major shopping areas throughout the country. Mavi Jeans, like a Turkish Gap, Istiklal Cad. 117 (tel. 0212/249-3758), and in the Akmerkez shopping center (see "Malls & Shopping Centers," below), and Mudo, Rumeli Cad. 58, Nisantasi (tel. 0212/231-3643), and in Akmerkez, carry smart and casual clothes. Unlike Gap or Old Navy, however, the fabrics are not prewashed, so allow for shrinkage or never put items in the dryer. Beyman is a popular chain among Turks, carrying casual chic for men and women along the lines of Ralph Lauren. The Beymen Mega Store in Akmerkez (tel. 0212/282-0380) is more along the lines of an upscale department store, where you can find cosmetics, stationery, and even furniture. For the best designer men's and women's wear, check out Vakko (www.vakko.com), Turkey's answer to Barney's New York and worth a look if only for its dazzling silver embroidered scarves. Locations include Istiklal Cad. 123/125 (tel. 0212/251-4092), Bagdat Cad. 422 (tel. 0216/467-4205), and Akmerkez. The spinoff Vakkorama, Osmanli Sok. 13 Taksim (tel. 0212/251-1571), caters to a younger clientele than the original.

Vakko's Aristocratic Tearoom

Take a shopping break at the Vakko Café, located on the second floor (first floor in Europe) of the upscale department store Vakko (Istiklal Cad. 123-125; tel. 0212/251-4092). This aristocratic red velvet tearoom offers a light American-style menu: shrimp with avocado, smoked-turkey-and-bacon club, croque-monsieur (okay, French, too), salads, and pastas. Prices are reasonable -- 9.50YTL to 14YTL ($7-$10) for main courses, 5.50YTL-8YTL ($4-$6) for desserts, which include waffles, ice cream, crepes, and cappuccino. Open daily from 10am to 7pm.

Food

Galatasaray Fish Market, in Balikpazari, is a great place to stock up for an impromptu picnic meal or for a long drive into the steppes. Sure, it's a tourist trap, but as a jumble of over 25 fish and fresh-produce vendors, as well as a handful of traditional meyhanes and the odd seller of dashboard ornaments, it's also an undeniable hoot. Beware of anything labeled caviar; Turkey is notorious for its illegal trade in smuggled caviar, as well as for representing this lower-quality fish roe as high-quality caviar using counterfeit labels copied from reputable brands.

Follow your nose off to the left down Duduodalar Sok. 21, where you will find Sutte (tel. 0212/293-9292), a delight for your eyes and your stomach. Sutte is a chain of charcuteries with outlets all over the city, but this is the most central. Sutte carries rare pork items like prosciutto and speck as well as hard-to-come-by wedges of parmeggiano reggiano. You can also take out one of the many prepared sandwiches or tempting mezes. While in the Balikpazari, keep your eyes peeled in the various markets for vacuum-packed bunches of sele olives -- soak them in hot water to dilute the saltiness, then serve these precious little pieces of fruit with olive oil, lemon, and a sprinkle of oregano.

The Egyptian Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi) was established in Eminönü after the Ottoman conquest of Egypt in the 16th century as a marketplace for exotic spices arriving via sea lanes by way of Egypt. Today you can find Turkish fine linens and embroidered elf slippers in addition to the barrels of herbs and spices, pistachios soaked in honey (yet another traditional Turkish aphrodisiac and "guaranteed for five times a night"), Turkish delight, and as many varieties of saffron as your heart desires. But the best fun is in jostling your way through the streets behind the building, where the true Turkish spirit shines through in vendors proffering morsels of soft cheese, spoonfuls of spicy ezme, and samples of succulent strawberries. (While you're wandering, stop off at the Rüstem Pasa Külliyesi [opposite the bus depot that is adjacent to the bazaar], a mosque and complex built by Sinan that is one of the most enchanting places of worship, tiled top to bottom with dazzling Iznik tiles painted with tulips, hyacinths, and spring flowers.)

Turkish-coffee addicts should head to Kurukahveci Mehmet, Tahmis Cad. 66, in the corner behind the spice bazaar. A producer of the infamous precious brew, Kurukahveci Mehmet is also the best-known retail outlet. For the most extensive variety of Turkish delight, stop in at Haci Bekir, the legendary sweet shop with locations at Istiklal Cad. 129 (tel. 0212/244-2804) and Hamidiye Cad. 81-83, in Eminönü (tel. 0212/522-0666). Manhattan Gourmet Store, Güzelbahçe Sok. 14, in Nisantasi (tel. 0212/225-0047), is a sophisticated American-style gourmet shop that stocks takeout sushi, Fauchon sauces, and other delicacies.

Turkey's olive oil really doesn't get the kind of respect it deserves -- an absence of effective marketing has deprived the rest of the world of one of the country's most treasured resources. But that is changing, by the looks of the gourmet shop in the airport's duty-free area. If you've been bewitched by the flaxen temptress at the bottom of your meze bowl, pick up a bottle at any local convenience-type store. The grocery store chains carry some basic brands; opt for Komili. (A Migros grocery store franchise is near the Findikzade tramway stop.)

Gifts & Souvenirs

The Grand Bazaar is the obvious answer to the "where to buy it" question, particularly because the last time I went, nobody bothered me. (Maybe I looked too poor.) The Istanbul Handicrafts Center (Istanbul Sanatlari Çarsisi; tel. 0212/517-6780), next to the Yesil Ev, provides a higher concentration of quality items in a more manageable environment. Mercifully, prices are fixed, so this is also a good place to go to arm yourself with information before heading over to the Grand Bazaar. The Avrupa Pasaji, in the Balikpazari, near Mesrutiyet Caddesi in Beyoglu, is a narrow gallery of artsy shops selling souvenirs from antique samovars to tiny harem outfits for 2-year-olds (plus merchandise like brass pepper mills at prices lower than in the Egyptian Spice Market). And recognizing that packaging is everything, Abdulla Natural Products in the Grand Bazaar, Halicilar Cad. 53 (tel. 0212/522-9078; www.abdulla.com), stocks goods like plush terry-cloth towels, herbal olive-oil soaps, and a bath set for a home-style hamam (pestamal, hand mitt, and so on). As the distributor for Vakko in Japan, The Fine Art shop, Divanyolu Caddesi 13 (next to McDonald's; tel. 0212/638-9827), carries their silk scarves, tablecloths, and other household textiles, as well as good-quality ceramics and silver jewelry.

Home

Moving beyond classic ready-to-wear and accessories, Vakko Home in the Vakko shop, Istiklal Cad. 123-125 (tel. 0212/251-4092), has several floors of dazzling tabletop, linen, and textile items, from taffeta pillows 55YTL to 75YTL ($40-$55) to printed silk Ottoman designs made into anything from bed sheets to tablecloths (if you have to ask . . .). Pieces can be made to order in at least a week; otherwise, they'll happily ship abroad.

Jewelry

The Grand Bazaar's Kalpakçilar Caddesi is the obvious destination for gold and silver modern pieces, but for anything appealing -- like handcrafted traditional and tribal jewelry -- you'll have to look elsewhere. Urart Ateliers in the Swissôtel (tel. 0212/629-0478) and at Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi 18/1 in Nisantasi (tel. 0212/246-7194) is an upscale workshop complex of designers, artists, and craftsmen dedicated to re-creating the rich traditions of Anatolian civilizations in gold and silver. Some of their pieces are also available in the small gift shop in Topkapi Palace, in the last courtyard. Eller Art Gallery, Istiklal Caddesi, Postacilar Sok. 12 (tel. 0212/249-2364), provides a more down-to-earth showcase for replicas of jewelry and artifacts normally seen under protective glass at Ankara's Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. For silver pendants, rings, and earrings, Pegasus, Muallim Naci Caddesi Yelkovan Sok. 3/B, Ortaköy (tel. 0212/258-7485), is one of my favorites, and it's also gentle on the wallet.

Leather Goods

SH Leather (formerly Sultan House; Yerebatan Caddesi 39, Sultanahmet; tel. 0212/511-3966), has a modest selection of men's and women's leather and suede jackets. Better yet, they will craft and design to order, or you can be fitted with a tailored pair of leather or suede pants.

Malls & Shopping Centers

You're joking, right? You'd really have to have a lot of time on your hands in Istanbul to wind up at one of these shopping centers (like me; I love each and every one of these). The Akmerkez Mall, in Etiler, was actually voted the best shopping mall in Europe. Other shopping malls include Capitol Shopping Mall in Üsküdar, Carousel Shopping Mall in Bakirköy, and Galleria Shopping Mall near the airport. Olivium is a newish outlet mall located halfway between the airport and Sultanahmet, where you can find various middle-of-the-range name brands at discounted prices.

Markets

Local markets offer a window into the vibrancy and color of the neighborhood, and provide a priceless experience in interaction with the locals. But after the umpteenth stall of fresh fruits and vegetables, rice sold in bulk, or pitiable clothing, it's probably going to be a short visit. There's an outdoor market on Wednesdays in Sultanahmet on Akbiyik Caddesi and one on Tuesdays near the Fenerbahçe Stadium in Kadiköy. There's also a Sunday crafts market in Ortaköy, where there's an abundance of lively outdoor cafes for that much-appreciated break.

Music

Shops carrying traditional Turkish and modern musical instruments are bunched around the entrance to Tüel in Beyoglu. The Istanbul Müzik Merkezi, Galipdede Cad. 21 (tel. 0212/244-5885), sells Anatolian drums and tambourines, or you can pick up a handmade professional-grade saz for 27TYL ($20) and up. (The small souvenir-size models sell for 14YTL/$10.) If you're looking for CDs, shop to your heart's desire in one of the many record stores along Istiklal Caddesi.