Getting Around

By Plane

Italy's domestic air network on Alitalia (tel. 800/223-5730 in the U.S., or 0870/544-8259 in the U.K.; www.alitalia.com) is one of the largest and most complete in Europe. Some 40 airports are serviced regularly from Rome, and most flights take less than an hour. Fares vary, but some discounts are available. Tickets are discounted 50% for passengers 2 to 11 years old; for passengers 12 to 22, there's a youth fare. And anyone can get a 30% reduction by taking domestic flights departing at night.

By Train

Trains provide a medium-priced means of transport, even if you don't buy the Eurailpass or one of the special Italian Railway tickets. As a rule of thumb, second-class travel usually costs about two-thirds the price of an equivalent first-class trip. The relatively new InterCity trains (IC on train schedules) are modern, air-conditioned trains that make limited stops; compared to the slower direct or regional trains, the supplement can be steep, but a second-class IC ticket will provide a first-class experience.

A couchette (a private fold-down bed in a communal cabin) requires a supplement above the price of first-class travel. Children 4 to 11 receive a discount of 50% off the adult fare, and children 3 and under travel free with their parents. Seniors and travelers under age 26 can also purchase discount cards. Seat reservations are highly recommended during peak season and on weekends or holidays; they must be booked in advance.

Trenitalia Pass for Italy covers 3 to 10 days of travel within 2 months. Price for 3 days $233 first class, $187 second class. Additional days $30 first class, $24 second class.

Discounts and bonuses include ferries to Sicily; they do not include international Artesia, France-Italy Night, and Elipsos trains, but they do offer passholder fares on those trains.

You can buy these passes from any travel agent or by calling tel. 800/848-7245. You can also call tel. 800/4-EURAIL or 800/EUROSTAR.

By Bus

Italy has an extensive and intricate bus network, covering all regions. However, because rail travel is inexpensive, the bus isn't the preferred method of travel. Besides, drivers seem to go on strike every 2 weeks.

One of the leading bus operators is SITA, Viale dei Cadorna 105, Florence (tel. 055-47821; www.sita-on-line.it). SITA buses serve most parts of the country, especially the central belt, including Tuscany, but not the far frontiers. Among the largest of the other companies, with special emphasis in the north and central tiers, is Autostradale, Autostazione Garibaldi, Milan (tel. 02-637901; www.autostradale.it). Lazzi, Via Mercadante 2, Florence (tel. 055-363041; www.lazzi.it), goes through Tuscany, including Siena, and much of central Italy.

Where these nationwide services leave off, local bus companies operate in most regions, particularly in the hill sections and the Alpine regions where rail travel isn't possible.

By Car

U.S. and Canadian drivers don't need an International Driver's License to drive a rented car in Italy. However, if driving a private car, they need such a license.

You can apply for an International Driver's License at any American Automobile Association (AAA) branch. You must be at least 18 and have two 2-by-2-inch photos and a photocopy of your U.S. driver's license with your AAA application form. The actual fee for the license can vary, depending on where it's issued. To find the AAA office nearest you, check the local phone directory or contact AAA's national headquarters (tel. 800/222-4357; www.aaa.com). Remember that an International Driver's License is valid only if physically accompanied by your original driver's license and only if signed on the back. In Canada, you can get the address of the Canadian Automobile Association closest to you by calling tel. 800/267-8713; www.caa.ca.

The Automobile Club d'Italia (ACI), Via Marsala 8, 00185 Roma (tel. 06-49981), is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 2pm. The ACI's 24-hour Information and Assistance Center (CAT) is at Cristoforo Colombo 261, 00147 Roma (tel. 06-491115).

Rentals -- Many of the loveliest parts of Italy lie away from the main cities, far away from the train stations. For that, and for sheer convenience and freedom, renting a car is usually the best way to explore the country. But you have to be a pretty aggressive and alert driver who won't be fazed by superhigh speeds on the autostrade (national express highways) or by narrow streets in the cities and towns. Italian drivers have truly earned their reputation as bad but daring.

However, the legalities and contractual obligations of renting a car in Italy (where accident and theft rates are very high) are a little complicated. To rent a car here, a driver must have nerves of steel, a sense of humor, a valid driver's license, and a valid passport and (in most cases) be over 25. Insurance on all vehicles is compulsory, though any reputable rental firm will arrange it in advance before you're even given the keys.

The three major rental companies in Italy are Avis (tel. 800/331-1084; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com), and Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com). U.S.-based companies specializing in European car rentals are Auto Europe (tel. 888/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com), Europe by Car (tel. 800/223-1516, or 212/581-3040 in New York; www.europebycar.com), and Kemwel Drive Europe (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com).

In some cases, discounts are offered to members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) or AARP.

Gasoline -- Gasoline, or petrol (known as benzina) is very expensive in Italy. Be prepared for sticker shock every time you fill up even a medium-size car with super benzina, which has the octane rating appropriate for most of the cars you'll be able to rent. Gas stations on the autostrade are open 24 hours, but on regular roads gas stations are rarely open on Sunday; also, many close from noon to 3pm for lunch, and most shut down after 7pm. Make sure the pump registers zero before an attendant starts filling your tank. A popular scam, particularly in the south, is to fill your tank before resetting the meter, so you pay not only your bill but also the charges run up by the previous motorist.

Driving Rules -- Driving is on the right; passing is on the left. Violators of the highway code are fined; serious violations might also be punished by imprisonment. In cities and towns, the speed limit is 50kmph (31 mph). For all cars and motor vehicles on main roads and local roads, the limit is 90kmph (56 mph). For the autostrade, the limit is 130kmph (81 mph). Use the left lane only for passing. If a driver zooms up behind you on the autostrade with his or her lights on, that's your sign to get out of the way! Use of seat belts is compulsory.

Breakdowns & Assistance -- In case of car breakdown or for any tourist information, foreign motorists can call tel. 803-116 (24-hr. nationwide telephone service). For road information, itineraries, and travel assistance, call tel. 06-514971.