Serene despite its location off a busy street, this open-air (but shaded) restaurant is the Mexican equivalent of a lunch counter. That means that it serves only breakfast and lunch, closing at 4:30pm, in a casual if lovingly tended setting of plastic tables covered with jaunty checkered table cloths and set with vases of fresh flowers. The food is the type Abuelita cooks: freshly made, quality ingredients, old local recipes. But grandma likes her food fiery, so take it seriously when they say a dish will be spicy—your mouth will tingle for a good half hour after the meal. Breakfasts here are excellent, but so are such specials as barbecued pork ribs or chopped fish sided by beans and tortillas. If you can’t decide what to order, ask for a half-order of two plates and the staff will graciously oblige.