Nightlife

The redevelopment of Izmir's waterfront truly infuses new life into this city on the sea. The grassy Kordon waterfront park, which runs from Cumhuriyet Meydani to the ferryboat docks of Alsancak and beyond, is rimmed by, at last count, 14 establishments, including restaurants, pubs, and Italian cafes, all with terrace seating, and facing the open park and promenade. According to the locals, they're "all good, all the same, all expensive." Check out the Sakiz Adasi (Atatürk Cad. 332/A; tel. 0232/465-1707), a newly opened and stylish cafe celebrating the common Greek and Turkish love of mastic gum. Here you'll find drinks, liqueurs, and desserts made from the aromatic resin, infused with flavors like bergamot, quince, pistachio mandarin, and even eggplant. I hate the stuff, but you can't leave Izmir (or Çesme) without trying it. Sera Café (tel. 0232/422-1939), across from Deniz Restaurant (and below Izmir Ticaret Odasi), provides live music nightly.

The North Shield Pub (tel. 0232/483-0720) added to its portfolio of pubs by opening up a location in Konak Pier. But tables at this location are positioned as to best enjoy the serenade of the sea and the nighttime glow of the lights bouncing off the Gulf of Izmir.

The highly regarded Izmir State Opera and Ballet (tel. 0232/484-6445) and the Izmir State Symphony Orchestra (tel. 0232/425-4115; fax 0232/484-5172) perform from September to May; check with your travel agent or the official website for calendar information (www.izdob.gov.tr) -- but keep your Turkish dictionary handy, as you'll need to know the names of the months. Tickets for performances cost from 7YTL to 20YTL ($6.10-$17/£2.80-£8).