Planning a Trip

This guide is designed to direct you through your own discoveries of Japan, however brief or extended your visit may be. From experience, I know that the two biggest concerns for visitors to Japan are the language barrier and the high cost of living. To help alleviate fears about the first, I've provided Japanese symbols for establishments that do not have English-language signs so you can recognize their names, given brief instructions on how to reach most of the places I recommend, made suggestions for ordering in restaurants without English-language menus, and provided prices for everything from subway rides to admission to museums.

As for costs, probably everyone has heard horror stories about Japan's high prices. After the dramatic fall of the dollar against the yen in the 1980s and 1990s, Tokyo and Osaka did indeed become two of the world's most expensive cities, with food and lodging costing as much as in New York or London, maybe more. But since Japan's economic bubble burst in the early 1990s, something happened that would have been unthinkable during the heady spending days of the 1980s -- Japanese became bargain-conscious. There are now inexpensive French bistros, secondhand clothing stores, 100-yen shops, and budget hotels.

Still, it's difficult not to suffer an initial shock about Japan's high prices, which will seem especially exorbitant if you insist on living and eating exactly as you do back home. The secret is to live and eat as Japanese do. This book will help you do exactly that, with descriptions of eateries and Japanese-style inns that cater to the native population. By following this book's advice and exercising a little caution on your own, you should be able to cut down on needless expenses and learn even more about Japan in the process. While you may never find Japan cheap, you will find it richly rewarding for all the reasons you chose Japan as a destination in the first place.

Despite the difficulties inherent in visiting any foreign country, I think you'll find Japan very easy to navigate. There are many more signs in English now than there were even just a decade ago. And Japan remains one of the safest countries in the world; in general, you don't have to worry about muggers, pickpockets, or crooks. In fact, I sometimes feel downright coddled in Japan. Everything runs like clockwork: Subway trains are on time, all the public telephones work, and the service -- whether in hotels, restaurants, or department stores -- ranks among the best in the world. I know if I get truly lost, someone will help me and will probably even go out of his or her way to do so. Japanese are honest and extremely helpful toward foreign visitors. Indeed, it's the people themselves who make traveling in Japan such a delight.

Packing Tips

The first thing you'll want to do when you're packing is select the smallest bag you can get away with and pack as lightly as you can. Storage space is limited on Japan's trains, including the Shinkansen bullet train, business hotels sometimes lack closets, and there are multitudes of stairs and overhead and underground passageways to navigate in virtually every train station in the country.

The most important item is a good pair of walking shoes, well broken in. You will probably be walking much more than you do at home. Keep in mind, too, that because you have to remove your shoes to enter Japanese homes, inns, shrines, and temples, you should bring a pair that's easy to slip on and off. And since you may be walking around in stocking feet, save yourself embarrassment by packing socks and hose without holes.

As for clothes, you'll need a coat in winter and very light clothing for the hot and humid summer months. Jackets are necessary for spring and autumn; I've seen it snow in March in Tokyo, and even May can be quite crisp. Japan's top French restaurants often require jackets and ties for men. Although the older generation considers it inappropriate for women to wear dresses without hose or tops without sleeves, I've noticed that the younger generation ignores this, especially in resort areas. Jeans and capris are okay for casual dining and sightseeing, but shorts are uncommon in Japan outside hiking and sports areas.

Virtually all hotels and Japanese-style inns -- save youth hostels and some budget-priced inns -- provide towels, soap, washcloths, toothbrushes, toothpaste, shampoo, a cotton kimono (called a yukata and not a giveaway), and usually razors. If you run out of something, you'll have no problem finding it in Japan. Most hotels and inns also provide a thermos of hot water or a water heater as well as some tea bags. If you're a coffee addict, you can save money by buying instant coffee and drinking your morning cup in your hotel room. Hair dryers are a standard feature in virtually all rooms with private bathrooms, including business hotels. Because the sun rises early in summer (as early as 4am), you might want to include a pair of eyeshades.

It's also good to carry a supply of pocket tissues, which you can pick up at newspaper stands near and in train stations, because some public restrooms do not have toilet paper. It's also a good idea to carry change for local buses (faster than trying to change ¥1,000 notes), a folding umbrella, and a compass for getting your bearings and following directions using local maps. Finally, pack small, inexpensive gifts from home that can be given to those who show unexpected kindness, including candy, postcards, and hometown souvenirs.

Help with Heavy Bags -- If your bag becomes a burden but you don't want to mail items home, an alternative is to send a bag onward to your next or last stop by takkyu-bin, available at larger hotels, train stations, and convenience stores. Bags reach most destinations in 1 or 2 nights, with the delivery cost of an average-size bag weighing 10 kilograms (22 lb.) ¥1,400 ($13). I love this amazingly efficient service -- it's a lifesaver!