Money

Currency -- The currency in Japan is called the yen, symbolized by ¥. Coins come in denominations of ¥1, ¥5, ¥10, ¥50, ¥100, and ¥500. Bills come in denominations of ¥1,000, ¥2,000, ¥5,000, and ¥10,000. You'll find that all coins get used (though it's hard to get rid of ¥1 coins), and you'll want to keep plenty of change handy for riding local transportation such as buses or streetcars. Although change machines are virtually everywhere, even on buses where you can change larger coins and ¥1,000 bills, you'll find it faster to have the exact amount on hand.

Although the conversion rate varies daily and can fluctuate dramatically, the prices in this book are based on the rate of US$1 to ¥105, or ¥100 to US95¢.

Some people like to arrive in a foreign country with that country's currency already on hand, but I do not find it necessary for Japan. Narita, Kansai, and Nagoya international airports all have exchange counters for all incoming international flights that offer better exchange rates than what you'd get abroad, as well as ATMs. Change enough money to last several days, since exchanging money is not as convenient in Japan as it is in many other countries.

Personal checks are not used in Japan. Most Japanese pay with either credit cards or cash -- and because the country overall has such a low crime rate, you can feel safe walking around with money (though of course you should always exercise caution). The only time you really need to be alert to possible pickpockets in Japan is when you're riding a crowded subway during rush hour or walking in heavily visited areas of Tokyo and other large cities.

In any case, although the bulk of your expenses -- hotels, train tickets, major purchases, meals in tourist-oriented restaurants -- can be paid for with credit cards, you'll want to bring traveler's checks for those times when you might not have easy access to an ATM for cash withdrawals.

ATMs -- The best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). Most ATMs in Japan, however, accept only cards issued by Japanese banks. Your best bet for obtaining cash, therefore, is at one of 21,000 post offices with ATMs that accept foreign bank cards operating on the Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) systems. Although major post offices, usually located near main train stations, have long open hours for ATMs (generally 7am-11pm weekdays and 9am-7 or 9pm on weekends), small post offices may have only limited hours for ATMs (depending on the post office, that may be until 6 or 7pm weekdays and until 5pm on weekends). Besides post offices, other places with ATMs that might accept foreign-issued cards include Citibank (which usually accepts both Visa and MasterCard and sometimes American Express as well) and large department stores in major cities. Note that there is no public American Express office in Japan.

Be sure you know your four-digit personal identification number (PIN) and your daily withdrawal limit before leaving home. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

In addition to bank cards, credit cards can also be used to get cash advances from an ATM. Keep in mind that credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw outside their home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. And keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

Credit Cards -- Credit cards are convenient for obtaining cash (provided you know your four-number PIN), paying for accommodations and meals at expensive restaurants, and making major purchases. They also provide a convenient record of your purchases and generally offer a relatively good exchange rate. Keep in mind, however, that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% transaction fee on all charges you incur abroad.

The most readily accepted cards are MasterCard (also called Eurocard), Visa, and the Japanese credit card JCB (Japan Credit Bank); many tourist-oriented facilities also accept American Express and Diners Club. Shops and restaurants accepting credit and charge cards will usually post which cards they accept at the door or near the cash register. However, some establishments may be reluctant to accept cards for small purchases and inexpensive meals, so inquire beforehand. In addition, note that the vast majority of Japan's smaller and least-expensive businesses, including many restaurants, noodle shops, fast-food joints, ma-and-pa establishments, and the cheapest accommodations, do not accept credit cards.

Traveler's Checks -- Although traveler's checks are something of an anachronism now that ATMs have come onto the scene, they're still useful for Japan, where ATMs for foreign-issued cards are limited. Traveler's checks have a slight advantage in that they generally fetch a better exchange rate than cash and also offer protection in case of theft. Note, however, that in some very remote areas, even banks won't cash them. Before taking off for small towns, be sure you have enough cash.

You can get traveler's checks before leaving home at almost any bank. Or, you can get traveler's checks by phone for American Express (tel. 800/673-3782), Visa (tel. 800/732-1322), and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920) in denominations of $20 to $500 or $1,000, plus a 1% to 4% service fee. American Express charges a $15 order fee, plus shipping charges.

All banks in Japan displaying an AUTHORIZED FOREIGN EXCHANGE sign can exchange currency and traveler's checks, with exchange rates usually displayed at the appropriate foreign-exchange counter. Banks are generally open Monday through Friday from 9am to 3pm, though business hours for exchanging foreign currency usually don't begin until 10:30 or 11am (be prepared for a long wait; you'll be asked to sit down as your order is processed). If you need to exchange money outside banking hours, inquire at your hotel. Likewise, large department stores also offer exchange services and are often open until 7:30 or 8pm. Note, however, that hotels and department stores may charge a handling fee, offer a slightly less favorable exchange rate, and require a passport for all transactions.

The Japanese Yen

For American Readers -- At this writing $1 = approximately ¥105, or ¥100 = 95¢. This was the rate of exchange used to calculate the dollar values given in this guide (rounded off to the nearest nickel for prices less than $10 and to the nearest dollar for prices more than $10). To roughly figure the price of something in dollars, calculate $9.50 for every ¥1,000. For example, ¥2,000 is $19.

For British Readers -- At this writing £1 = approximately ¥195, or ¥100 = 51p; this was the rate of exchange used to calculate the pound values in the table below. The euro is worth approximately ¥133.