When to Go

Climate

Most of Japan's islands lie in a temperate seasonal wind zone similar to that of the East Coast of the United States, which means there are four distinct seasons. Japanese are very proud of their seasons and place much more emphasis on them than people do in the West. Kimono, dishes and bowls used for kaiseki, and even Noh plays change with the season. Certain foods are eaten during certain times of the year, such as eel in summer and fugu (blowfish) in winter. Almost all haiku have seasonal references. The cherry blossom signals the beginning of spring, and most festivals are tied to seasonal rites. Even urban dwellers note the seasons; almost as though on cue, businessmen will change virtually overnight from their winter to summer attire.

Because Japan's four main islands stretch in an arc from northeast to southwest at about the same latitudes as Boston and Atlanta, you can travel in the country at virtually any time of year. Winters in southern Kyushu are mild, while summers in northern Hokkaido are cool. In addition, there's no rainy season in Hokkaido.

Summer, which begins in June, is heralded by the rainy season, which lasts from about mid-June to mid-July. Although it doesn't rain every day, it does rain a lot, sometimes quite heavily, and umbrellas are imperative. You'll also be more comfortable in light cottons, though you should bring a light jacket for unexpected cool evenings or air-conditioned rooms. After the rain stops, it turns very hot (in the 80s°F/high 20s°C) and uncomfortably humid throughout the country, with the exception of the northern island of Hokkaido, mountaintop resorts like Hakone, and the Japan Alps.

The period from the end of August through September is typhoon season, although most storms stay out at sea and generally vent their fury on land only in thunderstorms.

Autumn, which lasts until about November, is one of the best times to travel in Japan. The days are pleasant and slightly cool, and the changing red and scarlet of leaves contrast brilliantly with the deep blue skies. There are also many chrysanthemum shows in Japan at this time, popular maple-viewing spots, and many autumn festivals. Be sure to pack a jacket in autumn.

Winter, lasting from December to March, is marked by snow in much of Japan, especially in the mountain ranges where the skiing is superb. Many tourists also flock to hot-spring resorts during this time. The climate is generally dry, and on the Pacific coast the skies are often blue. Tokyo, where the mean winter temperature is about 40°F (4°C), doesn't get much snow, though it can be crisp, cold, and wet. Northern Japan's weather, in Tohoku and Hokkaido, can be quite severe, while southern Japan, especially Kyushu, enjoys generally mild, warm weather. Wherever you are, you'd be wise to bring warm clothing throughout the winter months.

Spring arrives with a magnificent fanfare of plum and cherry blossoms in March and April, an exquisite time when all of Japan is ablaze in whites and pinks. The cherry-blossom season starts in southern Kyushu toward the end of March and reaches northern Japan about mid-April. The blossoms themselves last only a few days, symbolizing to Japanese the fragile nature of beauty and of life itself. Other flowers also bloom through May or June, including azaleas and irises. During spring, numerous festivals throughout Japan celebrate the rebirth of nature.

Busy Seasons

Japanese have a passion for travel, and they all generally travel at the same time, resulting in jam-packed trains and hotels. The worst times of year to travel are around New Year's, from December 27 to January 4; Golden Week, from April 29 to May 5; and during the Obon Festival, about a week in mid-August. Avoid traveling on these dates at all costs, since all long-distance trains, domestic airlines, and most accommodations are booked solid. The weekends before and after these holidays are also likely to be crowded or booked. Exceptions are major cities like Tokyo or Osaka -- since the major exodus is back to hometowns or the countryside, metropolises can be downright blissful during major holidays such as Golden Week, especially since most restaurants and museums do not close (privately owned museums are generally closed on public holidays; municipal and national museums that are normally closed on Mon will remain open if it's a public holiday, closing the next day on Tues instead). Note: During New Year's, all museums and most restaurants in Japan are closed, often for 3 or 4 days. ATMs are closed January 1 through January 3.

Another busy time is during the school summer vacation, from about July 19 or 20 through August. It's best to reserve train seats and book accommodations during this time in advance. In addition, you can expect destinations to be packed during major festivals, so if one of these is high on your list, be sure to make plans well in advance.

Holidays

National holidays are January 1 (New Year's Day), second Monday in January (Coming-of-Age Day), February 11 (National Foundation Day), March 20 or 21 (Vernal Equinox Day), April 29 (Greenery Day; from 2007 it will be called Showa Day, after Emperor Showa), May 3 (Constitution Memorial Day), May 4 (to be called Greenery Day beginning 2007), May 5 (Children's Day), third Monday in July (Maritime Day), third Monday in September (Respect-for-the-Aged Day), September 23 or 24 (Autumn Equinox Day); second Monday in October (Health Sports Day); November 3 (Culture Day), November 23 (Labor Thanksgiving Day); and December 23 (Emperor's Birthday).

When a national holiday falls on a Sunday, the following Monday becomes a holiday. Although government offices and some businesses are closed on public holidays, restaurants and most stores remain open. The exception is during the New Year's celebration, January 1 through January 3, when virtually all restaurants, public and private offices, stores, and even ATMs close; during that time, you'll have to dine in hotels.

All museums close for New Year's for 1 to 4 days, but most major museums remain open for the other holidays. If a public holiday falls on a Monday (when most museums are closed), many museums will remain open but will close instead the following day, Tuesday. Note that privately owned museums, such as art museums or special-interest museums, generally close on public holidays. To avoid disappointment, be sure to phone ahead if you plan to visit a museum on a holiday or the day following it.

Festivals

With Shintoism and Buddhism the major religions in Japan, it seems as though there's a festival going on somewhere in the country almost every day, especially in summer. Every major shrine and temple has at least one annual festival. Such festivals are always free, though admission may be charged for special exhibitions such as flower shows. There are also a number of national holidays observed throughout the country with events and festivals, as well as such annual seasonal events as cormorant fishing and cherry-blossom viewing.

The larger, better-known festivals are exciting to attend but do take some advance planning since hotel rooms may be booked 6 months in advance. If you haven't made prior arrangements, you may want to let the following schedule be your guide in avoiding certain cities on certain days.

A note on festival dates: If you do plan your trip around a certain festival, be sure to double-check the exact dates with the Japan National Tourist Organization since these dates can change. In Japan, stop by a TIC office in Tokyo or at Narita or Kansai airports for a leaflet called "Calendar Events," which comes out monthly and describes major festivals in Tokyo and the rest of Japan. You can also try calling the local tourist office of the city hosting each festival for more information, though staff may not always speak English.