For travelers with disabilities, traveling can be a nightmare in Japan, especially in Tokyo and other large metropolises. City sidewalks can be so jam-packed that getting around on crutches or in a wheelchair is exceedingly difficult. Some subway stations are accessible only by stairs, and although trains have seating for passengers with disabilities -- called "Priority Seats" and located in the first and last compartments of the train -- subways can be so crowded that there's barely room to move. Moreover, Priority Seats are almost always occupied by commuters -- so unless you look visibly handicapped, no one is likely to offer you a seat.
As for accommodations, only 10% of the nation's 8,500 hotels have barrier-free rooms (called a "universal" room in Japan and used primarily by the elderly), mostly in the expensive category. Only a scant 1% of Japanese inns have such rooms. Restaurants can also be difficult to navigate, with raised doorsills, crowded dining areas, and tiny bathrooms. Even Japanese homes are not very accessible, since the main floor is always raised about a foot above the entrance-hall floor.
When it comes to facilities for the blind, however, Japan has a very advanced system. At subway stations and on many major sidewalks in Tokyo, raised dots and lines on the ground guide blind people at intersections and to subway platforms. In some cities, streetlights chime a theme when the signal turns green east-west, and chime another for north-south. Even Japanese yen notes are identified by a slightly raised circle -- the ¥1,000 note has one circle in a corner, while the ¥10,000 note has two. And finally, many elevators have floors indicated in Braille, and some hotels identify rooms in Braille.
In any case, a disability shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more resources out there than ever before. You can join the Society for Accessible Travel and Hospitality (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org) for $45 annually, $30 for seniors and students, to gain access to its vast network of connections in the travel industry, including information on travel destinations, travel agents, and tour operators that specialize in travel for those with disabilities.
