Introduction to Jeolla-do

Both economically poor and rich in natural beauty, Jeolla-do (formerly spelled Cholla-do) is one of Korea's most fascinating regions. Located in the southwestern part of the peninsula, it is bordered on the south by the East China Sea and on the west by the Yellow Sea. It is still sometimes referred to as the "Honam" region and it's made up of the Jeollanam-do (South Jeolla) and Jeollabuk-do (North Jeolla) provinces.

Like all of Korea's rural areas, the people here speak a distinct dialect different from that spoken in cities like Seoul. And that dialect isn't the only thing that sets this region apart. The people from Jeolla-do take pride in their food. Ask anyone from the region and they'll say that the best food in South Korea can be found here. Having eaten my way around the country, I can't disagree. Historically Jeolla-do is the ancestral home of members of the royal Yi family (of the Joseon Dynasty). Their refined cooking techniques have been handed down for centuries. Even at humble restaurants here you'll be amazed at the number of exceptionally tasty banchan (side dishes) that are brought to your table. Even the simplest of dishes seems to have been made with extra care.

Jeolla-do is the most agricultural of all the provinces, as the Geumgang and Yeongsangang rivers create fertile flatlands, ideal for growing grains. Recent industrial developments in the two major cities and along the western coast may ruin the beauty of the area. As for now, major highways haven't been developed here yet, which makes driving less efficient, but more scenic.

But this region is known for more than just its scenery and its cuisine -- it is widely considered the birthplace of pansori, a type of traditional folk singing and performance. Some call it Korean opera, but emotionally, I would say it's more like the Korean version of the blues -- a way for people to express their trials and sorrow through song.

Perhaps the poorest of the country's provinces, due to the area's history of conflict with the central government (it has long been viewed -- and some would say has long behaved -- like Seoul's rebellious little brother), it has largely been left behind as the rest of South Korea has boomed. Although this is not so great for the people who live there, it is wonderful for visitors. Not only will you get to experience the country's rural past, but you'll get to see wonderful scenery not yet ruined by huge highways, high-rise apartments, and industrial complexes.

The area boasts an irregular coastline, numerous tiny islands, and a vast array of tidal flatlands, making for ideal conditions for fishing and diving. The southern coastline has some of the best scenic ocean views anywhere in the country. However, the December 2007 oil spill off the western coast (near Taehan Marine National Park in Chungcheong-do) has changed the ecology of the area. Although cleaning efforts continue, be careful not to swim and be sure not to eat any fresh seafood from the region until it is safe to do so.

Don't let the oil spill deter you: Some of South Korea's most picturesque towns are in Jeolla-do. Don't miss the seaside town of Yeosu, the beautiful tea plantation of Boseong, and if time and weather permit, take a boat out to one of the many small islands that fade into the distance off the southern coast.