A great way to start your evening is with local sherry and the best tapas in town at Las Botas, Santo Domingo 13 (tel. 95-633-89-77). In business since the mid-1970s, it offers a delectable display of food, including Spanish tortillas (thick omelets with layers of potato), cured jams, regional cheese, mushrooms, and shrimp or bull meat marinated in sherry. Plates cost from 5€ to 8€ ($8-$13). It's open Monday to Saturday noon to 5pm and 8pm to 1am.
Only 3 blocks from Plaza del Arenal, Bar Alegría, Calle Corredera 30 (tel. 95-633-80-70), is patronized by savvy locals. We would come just for the croquetas de pollo (chicken croquettes), the best in the city. A friendly crowd, often young, congregates here at night. Tapas sell for 1.50€ ($2.40) and up, raciones (servings) for 6€ ($9.60). Open Monday to Saturday 8am to 11pm.
Jerez is known for its flamenco. The best shows -- very untouristy -- are at El Lagá de Tío Parrilla, Plaza del Mercado (tel. 95-633-83-34). Monday-to-Saturday shows begin at 10:30pm and 12:30am. The cover of 12€ ($19) includes the first drink, and reservations are suggested.
