Shopping

Jewelry, Judaica, and local Israeli crafts and art objects are the most interesting items for shoppers. Many shops in the Ben-Yehuda area, as well as in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City, sell reproductions of cast bronze antique wall menorahs from North Africa, medieval Italy, and Eastern Europe. The designs are authentic and decorative. There is no lack of modern menorahs, mezuzahs, dreidels, candleholders, and embroidered yarmulkes, as well as objects for Passover, Succot, Shabbat, and synagogue services. Note: It is possible to bargain a bit at most tourist shops in West Jerusalem. Very few of the stores on Ben Yehuda Street or King David Street will allow you to return an item if you see something nicer or at a better price elsewhere, so shop carefully. Shops in Mea Shearim often have a better selection and better prices.

There are also many outstanding individual shops that sell original art, jewelry, glass, and ceramics. Most of our listings are for places where you can find handmade items, and purchase them directly from the artisans who make them.

Hours, Sales Tax & Shipping -- Tourist shops are generally open Sunday to Thursday from 9am to 7pm, although some shops close from 1 to 4pm for siesta. On Friday, shops are open from 9am to 2pm.

There is no sales tax; however, unless otherwise stated, the value-added tax (VAT) of 17% is included in the price. Always ask about VAT exemptions when paying in foreign currency. Some expensive tourist shops will give you voucher forms, good for VAT refunds on items costing more than $50 when presented at Ben-Gurion Airport just before you leave the country.

Merchants are generally cooperative about packing your purchases securely for shipping or for the plane ride home. If you decide to mail purchases home, remember to bring strong tape with you to the post office, as all packages must be inspected for security and customs before they can be sealed. You must also bring your passport to the post office for identification when you mail packages.

The Art of Bargaining--Under normal conditions, Middle Eastern shopping is supposed to take a good deal of time, with lots of theatrics and diplomacy. But these days many merchants are willing to get down to the nitty-gritty with fewer rituals. If you find something you like, however, you must bargain for it. The main rule is be courteous and keep your cool. Appear politely unsure the object is something you really want. It often helps if you're with a friend who pretends you're late for a bus or an appointment -- you might even pretend to walk away. If a merchant doesn't come down on his price, don't panic and pay full price. The chance is that you'll find the same thing or something similar close by; if not, if you leave gracefully, you can always come back and try again. Much depends on how badly the merchant needs to convert some of his stock to cash on the day of your visit. If nothing else, after a few hours of browsing and bargaining, perhaps you'll have a new appreciation for the intricacies of the Middle East peace process.

The Old City Markets

A major attraction for visitors, the Old City markets have many shops offering such local products as olivewood chess and nativity sets, rosaries, carved camels, boxes, and (a great buy at three for $1) Christmas tree ornaments. You'll also find heavy, hand-blown glassware from Hebron, inlaid wooden boxes from Egypt and Syria, mother-of-pearl objects from Jordan, new and inexpensive Bedouin, Yemenite, and Bedouin-style jewelry, and locally made leather goods.

A few shops in the Arab bazaar around the Christian Quarter Road often carry tribal Bedouin flat-weave rugs and weavings made of wool, goat, or camel hair -- one of the world's great remaining national crafts. In older, more expensive pieces, look for bold diamond patterns and rich, subdued reds, browns, yellows, and oranges made from natural dyes of henna, pomegranate, saffron bark, and leaves from desert plants. Newer pieces often tend to bright reds and other hard colors, but are still very attractive. The shop of Mr. Maazen Kaysi (no sign), with a plate-glass show window and a recessed entrance on the right side of the Christian Quarter Road (just past the first pedestrian turning on the right as you come from David St.), has the finest and largest selection of Bedouin weavings and rugs. He also often obtains interesting kilims bought from new Israeli immigrants from Central Asia as well as hand-embroidered Romanian peasant blouses bought from Romanian pilgrims. Prices start high, but bargain.

The shops dealing in ancient antiquities are fascinating, but unless you are an expert, judge any object you may want to purchase in terms of its decorative value rather than its alleged age or rarity.

In the Jewish Quarter of the Old City, one of my favorite shops for old objects and Judaica is Mansour Saidian (no sign), opposite the Mizrachi Bank on the corner of Tiferet Israel Street. There's always a selection of 19th-century European and Iranian kiddush cups and old menorahs stashed away among the cases of newer objects and jewelry. Bargain!

The Old City Oil Press Art Gallery, 33 Jewish Quarter Rd., is interesting for its large, unusual collection of jewelry and other objects that incorporate old pieces of Roman glass. There's also contemporary Judaica, paintings, sculpture and prints.

The markets are also filled with all kinds of shops selling Arabic desserts, spices, and snacks, all of which should be part of the Old City shopping experience.