Getting There

By Plane

A reasonably priced way to get to Jerusalem from Ben-Gurion Airport is by sherut (shay-root), a van shared by eight passengers with a fixed per-person rate. The current fare is NIS 45 ($11/£5.60) per person, baggage included. The sherut stand, run by Nesher Sheruts, is to the left as you exit the arrivals area of the terminal building. Confirm that the destination of the Nesher van is Jerusalem, give your luggage to the driver, and climb in. When all the seats are claimed, the van will take off. The driver must, without charging an extra agora (a single small-denomination coin), take you from the airport to the hotel or residential address of your choice anywhere in Jerusalem. If you're lucky, you'll be the first in the van to be dropped off at your destination. If not, you'll find yourself on an odyssey through parts of Jerusalem you would never normally see, but you will get to your destination. If you are with a group of three or four people, it could pay to take a taxi.

The fixed-price rate for a private taxi is about NIS 260 ($65/£33). If you happen to have four people in your party (standard taxis take only up to four passengers, and the fourth passenger is at the driver's discretion), the cost for this most convenient option is really little more than that of a sherut. Remember that if you have a lot of baggage, it may not fit into one cab. Agree on a definite price ahead of time. Taxi drivers do not expect tips, but if you have a number of heavy bags, the driver may quote a slightly higher fare. If your driver doesn't charge extra for help with bags, offer a NIS 10 ($2.50/£1.25) tip. Rates after 9pm and on Shabbat and Jewish holidays are higher. All major car-rental companies have offices at Ben-Gurion Airport.

For the return trip to the airport, your hotel will be glad to call in advance (reserve about 2 days before your departure) and make an appointment for a sherut to pick you up. If you want to make your sherut reservation in person, the office of Nesher Taxis and Sheruts (tel. 02/625-7227), known for its extremely reliable airport service, is upstairs at 23 Ben-Yehuda St., near King George Street. The company will pick up round-the-clock, 7 days a week, but if you need transport to the airport on the Sabbath, you must make your reservation by Thursday -- the Nesher office is closed on Shabbat.

By Train

On weekdays, 20 trains a day arrive from Tel Aviv at Jerusalem's Malha Station, on the far western edge of the city. From there, you must take a municipal bus into the center of town. Officially the trip takes and hour and 30 minutes; the fare from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem is NIS 20 ($5/£2.50) with small discounts for children and students; children 4 and under with adult are free. For current schedules and fares, go to www.israrail.org.il, and click on "English."

By Bus

There is direct, scheduled bus service from most major cities to Jerusalem. Between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, buses leave as soon as they are full; the trip takes about 1 hour; fare is NIS 20 ($5/£2.50). Most buses arrive and depart from Jerusalem's Central Bus Station, which is at the western entrance to the city, right on Jaffa Road. From there, you can easily pick up municipal buses to all parts of West Jerusalem. Tip: After depositing most passengers, Egged intercity buses from Tel Aviv and Haifa arriving in Jerusalem after 8pm generally continue down Jaffa Road to the center of town, making additional request stops along the way. The buses then stop at the corner of Agron Street and the beginning of King David Street, and at the corner of Agron Street and King George Street. Check with your bus driver; if you're going to the center of town, this is a convenient, free option.

Arab-owned van buses to Bethlehem (as far as the Crossing Point from Jerusalem into Bethlehem) leave from a bus station across the street and a block east of the Damascus Gate. At press time, bus no. 22 went to the Bethlehem crossing. Returning from Bethlehem, you can request to be let off at Jaffa Gate or the New Gate (if you are staying in West Jerusalem). Fare is NIS 6 ($1.50/75p).

By Car

Route 1 (Hwy. 1) is the main road to Jerusalem from Tel Aviv and Ben-Gurion Airport; it runs right into Jaffa Road, downtown West Jerusalem's main street. Signs at the entrance of the city direct you to the downtown center, via a slightly circuitous route, as private cars are barred from most of Jaffa Road near the city entrance. If you're going to the Renaissance, or other hotels on Herzl Boulevard, or points in the extreme western part of the city, follow signs for Herzl Boulevard/Government Center. The newer, often less-busy Hwy. 443 toward Tel Aviv runs parallel to the north of Route 1 and leads you to the northern part of Jerusalem. Parts of it traverse territory lined by high cement security walls, so you don't see much of the landscape. If you're coming from or headed toward points on the coast north of Tel Aviv, this is the fastest route.

From the Sea of Galilee, The Dead Sea, or Eilat and the Negev, the most direct route is Route 90, which follows the Jordan Valley. From Route 90, turn onto Route 1 just south of Jericho, and make the steep ascent up to Jerusalem. At the edge of the city, follow signs to the Center. This will take you to the northern walls of the Old City, approaching Damascus Gate. Keep right if you're heading for the center of West Jerusalem, and left for East Jerusalem.

Parking is difficult in Jerusalem. Many hotels have very limited or no parking facilities. There are parking garages at Hillel and Yoel Solomon streets in downtown Jerusalem; outside Jaffa Gate on Mamilla Street; and on Mamilla Street under the Hilton Hotel. There are metered streets throughout the center of town: You must purchase parking tickets in advance from kiosks, and display your parking ticket, with the appropriate time marked, in order to avoid fines. Your car-rental agent will show you how to use the parking ticket system. In Jerusalem, it is much easier to use public transportation or taxis. The Old City is only accessible by foot.

All major car-rental agencies are clustered on 2 long blocks of King David Street, beginning at Agron Street.