Attractions

Radiating the dusty aura of the Old West, Julian offers an abundance of early California history, quaint Victorian streets filled with apple-pie shops and antiques stores, fresh air, and friendly people. While Wal-Mart and McDonald's have invaded formerly unspoiled mountain resorts like Big Bear and Mammoth, this 1880s gold-mining town has managed to retain a rustic, woodsy sense of its historic origins, despite the arrival of a Subway sandwich shop.

Be forewarned, however, that downtown Julian can be exceedingly crowded during the fall harvest season. Consider making your trip during another season (or midweek) to enjoy this unspoiled relic with a little privacy. Rest assured, apple pies are baking around town year-round. But autumn is perfect; the air is crisp and bracing. Julian sees a dusting (and often more) of snow during the winter; spring prods patches of daffodils into bloom.

The best way to experience Julian is on foot. Two or three blocks of Main Street offer plenty of diversions for an afternoon or longer, depending on how much pie you stop to eat. And don't worry, you'll grow accustomed to constant apple references very quickly here -- the fruit has proven to be more of an economic boom than gold ever was.

After stopping in at the chamber of commerce in the old Town Hall -- don't miss the vintage photos in the auditorium -- cross the street to the Julian Drug Store & Miner's Diner, 2130 Main St. (tel. 760/765-3753). This old-style soda fountain serving sparkling sarsaparilla, burgers, and sandwiches, and conjures images of guys in buckskin and gals in bonnets. Built in 1886, the brick structure is one of the many well-preserved buildings in town on the National Historic Register; it's jam-packed with local memorabilia.

The Eagle and High Peak Mines, built around 1870, at the end of C Street (tel. 760/765-0036), may seem to be a tourist trap, but they offer an interesting and educational look at the town's one-time economic mainstay. Tours take you underground to the 1,000-foot hard-rock tunnel to see the mining and milling process; antique engines and authentic tools are on display. Tours are usually given beginning at 10am, but hours vary so it's best to call ahead. Admission is $10 for adults, $5 for children 6 to 16, $1 for children 5 and under.

There's more local history on view at the Julian Pioneer Museum, 2811 Washington St. (tel. 760/765-0227). It's open April through November, Wednesday through Sunday, 10am to 4pm; weekends only 10am to 4pm the rest of the year. The "soul of Julian" is presented by the Julian Black Historical Society at its museum and gift shop, 2030 Third St. (tel. 760/765-1120; www.julianblackhistoricalsociety.org). African-American roots are deep in Julian (it was a black settler who originally found gold here in 1869), and the society offers walking tours on Saturdays at 2pm and Sundays at 1pm ($5). And no historic survey of Julian is complete without a visit to Pioneer Cemetery, a hilltop graveyard straight out of Our Town or Spoon River Anthology. It can be accessed by a steep stairway -- at one time the only entrance -- on Main Street (which becomes Farmer Road), just past A Street, or by car via A Street.

A ride from Country Carriages (tel. 760/765-1471) is a quintessential Julian experience. Even the locals get into the act, snuggling under a blanket for romantic horse-drawn carriage rides to celebrate anniversaries and birthdays. You can make reservations or find your carriage on Main Street across from Town Hall. A 30-minute rambling drive down country roads and through town starts at $30 for two people. Winter hours are Thursday and Friday (usually no rides Mon-Wed, but it can be arranged) 11am to 4pm, and weekends 11am to 7pm; hours are extended for summer.

Animal lovers might also want to look into the California Wolf Center, 18457 Hwy. 79 (tel. 760/765-0030 or 619/234-9653; www.californiawolfcenter.org), located about 4 miles from town. This educational and conservation facility offers public programs on Saturdays at 1:30pm (reservations required; $10 adults, $7 seniors, $6 kids), which include a visit with the resident wolf pack. Private tours can be arranged during the week ($25 per person).