Hotels

Kauai has accommodations to fit every taste and budget, from luxury oceanfront suites to quaint bed-and-breakfast units to reasonably priced condos that will sleep a family of four without requiring that you take out a second mortgage.

Remember to consider when you will be traveling to the islands. The high season, during which rooms are always booked and rates are at the top end, runs from mid-December to March. A second high season, when rates are high but reservations are somewhat easier to get, is summer (June-Sept). The low seasons, with fewer tourists and cheaper rates, are April to June and September to mid-December.

Taxes of 11.42% are added to all hotel bills. Parking is free unless otherwise noted.

What's the Story on "Cleaning Fees?" -- Several bed-and-breakfasts and some condo units have instituted yet another fee (an add-on fee, similar to the "resort fee" that hotels charge) called a "cleaning fee." Personally, I hate this. Why not just incorporate all costs into the room rate? I think "cleaning fees" is a chintzy way to look "affordable" but then add yet another cost on to your unit. (Travelers: Be sure to read the fine print; if you are getting a unit for $135 a night plus an $80 cleaning fee for a 2-night minimum -- you really are buying a $175-a-night unit.) I have gotten numerous cards, letters, and e-mails from guests complaining about these "cleaning fees," all saying they feel slightly cheated by this additional cost. B&B and condo owners: Take note that it is better to have one rate (including cleaning fees and all other costs) than to have unhappy guests.

Moa Better: Chickens & Roosters -- One of the first things that visitors notice about Kauai is there seems to be an unusually large number of moa (wild chickens). Kauai has always had a history of having more than its fair share of chickens and roosters running about, but after Hurricane Iniki picked up and scattered the fowl all over the island in 1992, they have been populating at a prodigious rate. Generally, having a few chickens scratching around in the dirt is quaint and downright picturesque. However, the "dark side" of the chicken population explosion is the increase in the number of roosters. In fact, a new industry has cropped up: Rooster Eradicators. Resorts hire these eradicators to remove the roosters from the well-manicured grounds because the large number of these male birds has led to, well, a sort of crowing contest. Generally roosters will crow as the sun comes up. But on Kauai, with the population increase, the roosters crow all day long and throughout the night in some places. Just be warned that part of the "charm" of Kauai is the rooster population, and you might want to consider bringing earplugs.

B&B Etiquette -- In Hawaii, it is traditional and customary to remove your shoes before entering anyone's home. The same is true for most bed-and-breakfast facilities. Most hosts post signs or will politely ask you to remove your shoes before entering the B&B. Not only does this keep the B&B clean, but you'll be amazed how relaxed you feel walking around barefoot. If this custom is unpleasant to you, a B&B may not be for you. Consider a condo or hotel, where no one will be particular about your shoes.

If you have never stayed at a B&B before, here are a few other hints: Generally the host lives on property and their part of the house is off-limits to guests. (You do not have the run of the house.) Most likely there will be a common area that you can use. Don't expect daily maid service. Your host may tidy up but will not do complete maid service. Also don't expect amenities like little bottles of shampoo and conditioner; this is a B&B, not a resort. Remember that you are sharing your accommodations with other guests; be considerate (that is, quiet) when you come in late at night.

There is a strict no smoking law in Hawaii: no smoking in hotels, restaurants, bars, and public buildings. Most bed-and-breakfast units, condos, and vacation rentals also do not allow smoking. If this matters to you, be sure to check the policy of your accommodations before you book.

A Rose by Any Other Name: Timeshares -- Timeshares are very big on Kauai, only no one will say that dreaded word. It conjures up slick salesmen from the 1970s hustling people on the beach with promises of nearly free vacations in Hawaii if you just sign on the dotted line. Timeshares denote a condominium project that sells the same unit to several owners, who are allotted a "time" when they can visit the unit. Today, timeshare projects have gone upscale in Hawaii; major resorts like Marriott, Westin, Hilton, and Shell are now building mega-resorts with top-notch units, all furnished with the same top-drawer furniture and equipped with the best electronics and kitchen equipment. But they never, never, call them timeshares. The new, politically correct term is "vacation ownership" -- but the idea is the same: Several owners have a share in the unit and are allotted a certain amount of time every year (from a week to a month) to stay in the unit. These respectable management companies make sure that the unit is well-maintained and even rent out the units if none of the owners wishes to stay there. Sometimes you can get "deals" at the various "vacation ownerships" because, quite frankly, they are trying to get you to buy the place (or at least a share in the unit). So guests are offered everything from a free snorkeling trip to a free vacation in Hawaii, if you are willing to sit through a sales pitch. All this is great, as long as you know what you are getting into. The so-called "45-minute" pitch may last all morning, and the sales pressure may not be your idea of a tranquil vacation. So buyer beware; even in paradise there are no free lunches (or breakfasts, or snorkeling trips).

Lihue & Environs

If you need to stay overnight near the airport, try the Garden Island Inn.

Poipu Resort Area

Construction in Poipu -- There is major construction going on in the Poipu Resort area. If you are headed that way, be warned that the number of condominium and hotel rooms currently under construction (and not counting the ones still in the planning process) will increase the number of visitor accommodations in Poipu by 25%.

The good news is that Kauai County has very strict guidelines for noise and dust abatement, which is vigorously enforced. Just be aware that you will be facing traffic delays, construction noise, and the general problems caused by a lot of construction work in a small area.

Current construction will add 227,000 square feet of retail space, 423 condominium units, and 190 lots for single family homes to the area.

In the permit process, with no definite construction timetable yet, are plans for another 824 condominium units, 75,000 square feet of retail space, and an 11,000-square-foot spa and fitness center.

The projects currently under construction in Poipu are:

• Koloa Landing, 2251 Kapili Rd: 232 condominium units, scheduled for completion in 2010.
• Kukuiulu Development, between Poipu and Lawai Valley: A master-planned resort community on 1,010 acres, including a boutique hotel with 31 cottage units, a resort spa, a 75,000-square-foot commercial village, an 18-hole golf course, and condominiums and homes. Roadways are currently under construction, scheduled to be finished in 2010.
• Kukui'ula Village Shopping Center, off Ala Kalanikaumaka (the new western bypass road): A 90,000-square-foot replica of an old sugar plantation town with plantation-style architecture which will house 45 restaurants, specialty shops, and offices including Merriman's Kaua`i, Quiksilver, The Josselin Restaurant, Palm Palm, Bubba Burgers Hawaii, Bungalow 9, and Lappert's Hawaii. The opening is now estimated to be late 2009 or early 2010.
• Pili Mai at Poipu, off Kiahuna Plantation Drive: 191 condo units. Infrastructure has been completed; more construction depends on the sales of the units.
• Poipu Aina Estates, 2800 Ala Kinoki: Infrastructure for the 17-lot agricultural subdivision is complete.
• Poipu Beach Estates, Poipu Road at the roundabout: Landscaping for the 106-lot subdivision is completed.
• Poipu Shopping Village Phase II, Poipu Road: Construction of an additional 62,000 square feet of retail space is expected to be complete by the end of 2010.
• Village at Poipu Phase I, Poipu Road: A 50-lot, single-family subdivision.
• Wainani at Kiahuna, Kiahuna Plantation Drive: This subdivision of 70 single-family homes is under construction.

Projects still in the county planning and permit process are:

• Kiahuna Poipu Golf Resort, adjacent to Kiahuna Golf Course, off Kiahuna Plantation Drive: 280 condominium units and 2 single-family homes.
• Koloa Creekside Estate, Weliweli-Waikomo Road: A 9.38-acre condominium development.
• Koloa Marketplace, Koloa and Maluhia roads: Plans for the 75,000-square-foot retail space are in the final stages of the permit process.
• Poipu Spa and Fitness Center, Poipu Road, fronting the Kiahuna Tennis and Swim Club: Plans are underway for an 11,000-square-foot spa and fitness center.
• Royal Palms at Poipu Beach, Kiahuna Plantation Drive: This 164-condo unit project is in the permit process.

For more information, contact the Poipu Beach Resort Association, tel. 888/744-0888 or www.poipubeach.org.

The King of Condos -- One of the easiest ways to find lodging in the Poipu Beach area is to contact The Parrish Collection (formerly Grantham Resorts), 3176 Poipu Rd., Koloa, HI 96756 (tel. 800/325-5701 or 808/742-2000; fax 808/742-9093; www.parrishkauai.com), which handles more than 100 "handpicked" rental units for 12 different condo developments, plus dozens of vacation homes, ranging from quaint cottages to elite resort homes. The Parrish Collection has high standards for their rental units and offers extremely fair prices. If the properties are not maintained to their standards, they have no problem taking the units (and, in one case, an entire condominium project) out of their selected rentals. The condos start at $159 for a spacious two-bedroom, garden-view unit in low season, and vacation cottages start at $250 and go up to $4,885 for exquisite multimillion-dollar ocean estates. There's a 5-night minimum for condos and a 7-night minimum for homes.

If you're staying on Kauai for 5 days, ask The Parrish Collection about the "Frommer's Preferred Guest Discount." You'll get a large one- or two-bedroom condo, well-equipped (full kitchen, washer/dryer, wet bar, TV/DVD, phone, and most units have high-speed Internet), starting as low as $109 a night for one-bedrooms and $151 for two-bedrooms with garden views, or $180 a night for oceanview condos (like Nihi Kai Villas, Poipu Crater Resort, and Waikomo Stream Villas). There's not a better deal on Kauai. Kudos to The Parrish Collection for these fabulous vacation bargains.

Elsewhere On The South Coast -- Further inland and about 10 to 15 minutes from Poipu Beach, the towns of Kaleheo and Lawai offer very affordable accommodations.

Where to Stay on Kauai's North Shore

Rosemary Smith, of Rosewood Kauai (tel. 808/822-5216; www.rosewoodkauai.com), has a range of properties from country homes and cottages to fabulous beach homes and affordable condos. Also try Hanalei North Shore Properties (tel. 800/488-3336 or 808/826-9622; fax 808/826-1188; www.kauai-vacation-rentals.com), which handles all kinds of weekly rentals -- from beachfront cottages and condos to romantic hideaways and ranch houses -- along the North Shore. Renting a home is a great way to enjoy the area's awesome nature, especially for those who like to avoid resorts and fend for themselves. Shopping, restaurants, and nightlife are abundant in nearby Hanalei.

Where to Stay on the Coconut Coast

This is the land of B&Bs and inexpensive vacation rentals. In addition to those reviewed in this guide, we recommend Opaeka'a Falls Hale (tel. 888/822-9956; www.opaekaafallskauai.ws), which has two exquisite units with pool and hot tub for $110 to $130 (plus a $50 cleaning charge).