Beaches

Eons of wind and rain have created this geological masterpiece of an island, with its fabulous beaches. In fact, Kauai, the oldest of the major Hawaiian Islands, has more sand beaches per mile of shoreline than any of the other seven islands. Gorgeous white-sand beaches make up about 50 miles of Kauai's 113 miles of shoreline. That works out to some 44% of the shoreline, far greater than the shoreline percentage of any other island. (Oahu has only half that amount.)

The most popular beaches are on the island's north and south coasts. They can be crowded, especially on weekends. But there are plenty of beaches, white sand, and surf for everyone.

Hawaii's beaches belong to the people. All beaches (even those in front of exclusive resorts) are public property, and you are welcome to visit them. Hawaii state law requires that all resorts and hotels offer public right-of-way access (across their private property) to the beach, along with public parking. So just because a beach fronts a hotel doesn't mean that you can't enjoy the water. It does mean that the hotel may restrict certain areas on private property for hotel guests' use only. Generally, hotels welcome nonguests to their facilities. They frown on nonguests using the beach chairs reserved for guests, but if a nonguest has money and wants to rent gear, buy a drink, or eat a sandwich, well, money is money, and they will gladly accept it from anyone. However, that does not mean that you can willy-nilly cross private property to get to a beach. Look for BEACH ACCESS signs; don't trespass.

Note: Despite what you may have heard, nudity is against the law in Hawaii. You can be prosecuted. (Yes, the police do arrest people for being bare on the beach.)

Hawaiian Monk Seals & Turtles: Look, but Don't Get Too Close -- If you are lucky, you will get to see one of Hawaii's rare Hawaiian monk seals or endangered Hawaii green sea turtles when they lumber up on a sunny beach. One of the most endangered species on earth, about 25 seals (Monachus schauinslandi) call Kauai home. These 400- to 600-pound seals (stretching out 4-6 ft.) are protected by very strict laws, and it is illegal to approach a seal (or a turtle for that matter) closer than 100 feet. It's exciting when you spot a seal (or turtle), and you'll want to rush up and get a photo. Remember that this is not Disneyland or a zoo, and that the beach is their native habitat. Stay back 100 feet, and do not use your flash when photographing. (Hey, how would you like cameras flashing when you're trying to get a little snooze in?) Be sure to instruct your children to stay back and not throw anything at the seals or turtles. The endangered-species laws are strictly enforced on Kauai, and the fines are very steep. For more information, go to www.kauaimonkseal.com.

Stargazing -- Any Kauai beach is great for stargazing, almost any night of the year. Once a month, on the Saturday nearest the new moon, when the skies are darkest, the Kauai Educational Association for the Study of Astronomy sponsors a star watch at Waimea Plantation Cottages. For information on the next star watch, contact KEASA, P.O. Box 161, Waimea, HI 96796 (tel. 808/332-STAR [7827]; www.keasa.org). Video presentations start at 6pm, with star gazing on the ocean side of the resort to follow.

Safety in the Surf

Before you even think about packing your bathing suit, get a copy of the free brochures Kauai Beach Guide and Tips of a Safe Vacation. It could save your life. These color brochures explain how to avoid potential dangers in Kauai's ocean environment. The power of the ocean is nothing to fool around with. The surf can increase in size in a short period of time, or an offshore rip current can carry you out to sea. Even a walk alone on the beach without paying attention to the ocean can have potentially dangerous results (like being swept out to sea).

The number-one advice is to swim at beaches where there are lifeguards and to talk to the lifeguards before entering the ocean. The Kauai Beach Guide lists all beaches on Kauai and whether a lifeguard is on duty. It also lists each beach's potential hazards, like strong currents, dangerous shorebreaks, high surf conditions, slippery rocks, sharp coral, sudden drop-offs, and waves on ledges.

In general, the north and west shores are hazardous in winter (Sept-May), with big surf. In summer, the opposite is true, and the big waves occur along the south and east shores. But hazardous conditions can occur on any beach at any time of the year. The brochure stresses the following points:

Swim in lifeguard areas and check with lifeguards on ocean conditions before you go into the water.

Watch the ocean at least 20 minutes before you go in. Lifeguards can show you what potential hazards to look for.

Always (always, always, always) swim (or snorkel) with a buddy.

Always keep a close watch over young children.

You can get this free brochure by contacting the Kauai Visitors Bureau, 4334 Rice St., Suite 101, Lihue, HI 96766 (tel. 808/245-3971), or download it from www.kauaiexplorer.com.