The Poipu Resort Area

Expect mostly touristy shops in Poipu, the island's resort mecca; here you'll find T-shirts, souvenirs, black pearls, jewelry, and the usual quota of tired marine art and trite hand-painted silks.

There are exceptions. The formerly characterless Poipu Shopping Village, at 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Dr., is shaping up into a serious shopping stop. Hale Mana has a glorious collection of hard-to-find gift items of excellent taste: fabulous incense sticks from Provence (lavender, amber, vanilla), antique picture frames, lacquer boxes, beaded bags, unique candles, sterling-silver chopsticks, sake sets, pillows, masks, Hawaiian handmade paper, and jewelry by Kauai artist Adove. The staggering selection also includes dramatic acrylic jewelry that looks like elk horn, one-of-a-kind jewelry and purses by Maya, gemlike sake cups, cotton yukata, silk kimonos, snuff bottles, and diaphanous silk dresses that you won't find elsewhere in Hawaii. Also in Poipu Shopping Village, the tiny Bamboo Lace boutique lures the fashionistas; its resortwear and accessories can segue from Hawaii to the south of France in one easy heartbeat. Across the courtyard, Sand People is great for understated resortwear (such as Tencel Jeans) and Indonesian coconut picture frames. Don't miss out on Sand Kids, with its adorable kids' clothes, books, gifts, T-shirts, and jewelry, plus cute stuffed "sea creatures" (like mermaids). It's one of the best places to get sunglasses for kids. The newly renovated Overboard rides the wave of popularity in alohawear and surf stuff, plus great swimwear, linens, a selection of Tommy Bahama clothing and accessories, and other island-style merchandise. Take a break from all the shopping at Puka Dog, serving up a range of island hot dogs (even veggie ones).

The shopping is surprisingly good at the Hyatt Regency Kauai, with the footwear mecca Sandal Tree, Water Wear Hawaii for swim stuff, Kauai Kids for the underage, and Reyn's, an institution in Hawaii for alohawear. My favorite store here (and it's worth the drive) is the Kohala Bay Collections, filled with resort casual clothing with top names like Tommy Bahama, Toes on the Nose, Jams World, and M Mac, all at very wallet-pleasing prices.

Across the street from Poipu Beach, on Hoone Road, Nukumoi Surf Shop is a pleasant surprise: It has an excellent selection of sunglasses, swimwear, surf equipment, and watersports regalia, and not just for the under-20 crowd.

In neighboring Old Koloa Town, you'll find everything from Lappert's Ice Cream and Island Soap and Candle Works (where you can watch them make soap and candles), to Crazy Shirts and Sueoka Store on Koloa's main drag, Koloa Road. Walk the long block for gifts, souvenirs, sunwear, groceries, soaps and bath products, and everyday necessities. You might want to stop in at Hula Moon, 5426 Koloa Rd. (tel. 808/742-9298), which has a unique selection of gifts, especially hand-painted tiles with sayings like "I'd Rather Be On Kauai," or "Please Remove Your Shoes." If you are looking for a beach bag or Hawaiian-print hats, dresses, or T-shirts, Paradise Clothing, 5402 Koloa Rd. (tel. 808/742-1371), has a great selection. Another great place for island-style clothes is Progressive Expressions, in Koloa town (tel. 808/742-6041), which also has every kind of surfboard and surf accessory, as well as a great selection of sunscreens. For more stylish fashions, go to Jungle Girl, 5424 Koloa Rd. (tel. 808/742-9649), which markets their clothes, jewelry, shoes, and artwork as "island funk and flash."

On Poipu Road, between Koloa and Poipu, there is an exceptional place you cannot miss: Pohaku T's, 3430 Poipu Rd. (tel. 808/742-7500), only sells clothing, artwork, T-shirts, and other whimsical things designed and produced by Kauai artists. All the products either have a great sense of humor or promote awareness of Hawaii's cultural and environmental issues. Prices are excellent. Farther down Poipu Road, in the tiny Poipu Plaza, nestled next to Sea Sport Divers and Outfitters Kauai, is the Kukuiula Store -- a shop for everything from produce and sushi to paper products, sunscreen, beverages, and groceries. Occasionally, when fishermen drop by, the store offers fresh sliced sashimi and poke, quite delicious and popular with sunset picnickers and nearby condo residents. In Kalaheo, condo dwellers and locals flock to the solitary, nondescript building that is Medeiros Farms, 4365 Papalina Rd. (tel. 808/332-8211), for everything they raise and make: chicken, range-fed beef, eggs, Italian pork, and Portuguese sausages. The meats are hailed across the island, and the prices are good. Medeiros Farms chicken is so good it's mentioned on some of the upscale menus on the island.

You can take paradise home with you -- well, at least the outrageously beautiful flowers. The best place to order flowers to be sent home is Tropical Flowers by Charles, 3465 Lawailoa Lane, Koloa (tel. 800/699-7984 or 808/332-7984; www.a-tropical-flower.com). Not only is Charles a flower genius (who grows a range of tropical flowers, including some very rare and unusual varieties), but his hardy blooms and his skill at packing means that your little bit of Kauai will live for a long, long time. For all this, at extremely reasonable prices, we highly recommend Charles.

Niihau Shell Lei: The Island's Most Prized Artwork

Because Kauai is so close to Niihau (the "Forbidden Island" is just offshore, where the public is prohibited), it's the best place in the state to buy the exquisite art form, Niihau-shell leis. Nothing can match the craftsmanship and the tiny shells in this highly sought-after and highly prized jewelry. Niihau is in the best position to catch the very tiny and very rare shells that roll up from the deep onto the windward shores after a big storm (generally Nov-Mar). When the tiny shells are spotted on a beach, everyone (men, women, and children) on Niihau drops what they are doing and races down to the beach to begin the backbreaking work of collecting these exceptional shells.

The shells are then sorted according to size and color, and only the best are kept. Some 80% of the shells are thrown out because they are chipped, cracked, discolored, or flawed in some way that renders them imperfect. The best shells are the teeny, tiny ones. The best colors (the shells can be white, yellow, blue, red, or gold) are white or the rare gold.

The shells can be crafted into anything, but leis and necklaces are the most popular items. A necklace may take anywhere from hours to years to complete. Each shell is strung with very small and very intricate knots. The patterns sometimes mimic flower leis, and the length can range from a single-strand choker to a multistrand, 36-inch (or longer) necklace. No two leis are alike. The leis are not cheap; they range from several hundred to several thousand dollars, depending on the length, the shells used, and the intricate work involved.

You can find Niihau shell leis at numerous locations on Kauai. One of our two favorite places is Hawaiian Trading Post, Koloa Road and Kaumualii Highway, in Lawai (tel. 808/332-7404), which carries a range of items from junky souvenirs to excellent Niihau leis. (You have to ask for them to bring out the "good stuff" from the back.) Our other favorite place to buy the leis is at www.niihau.us which is owned and operated by Niihau residents. (You can buy direct, so to speak.)