The Natural Landscape

The first Hawaiian Islands were born of violent volcanic eruptions that took place deep beneath the ocean's surface, about 70 million years ago -- more than 200 million years after the major continental landmasses had been formed. As soon as the islands emerged, Mother Nature's fury began to carve beauty from barren rock. Untiring volcanoes spewed forth rivers of fire that cooled into stone. Severe tropical storms, some with hurricane-force winds, battered and blasted the cooling lava rock into a series of shapes. Ferocious earthquakes flattened, shattered, and reshaped the islands into precipitous valleys, jagged cliffs, and recumbent flatlands. Monstrous surf and gigantic tidal waves rearranged and polished the lands above and below the reaches of the tide.

It took millions of years for nature to shape the familiar form of Diamond Head on Oahu, Maui's majestic peak of Haleakala, the waterfalls of Molokai's northern side, the reefs of Hulopoe Bay on Lanai, and the lush rainforests of the Big Island. The result is an island chain like no other -- a tropical landscape rich in unique flora and fauna, surrounded by a vibrant underwater world.

The Island Landscapes

Oahu -- Oahu is the third-largest island in Hawaii (behind the Big Island and Maui). As the home of Honolulu, it's also the most urban island, with a population of nearly 900,000. Oahu is defined by two mountain ranges: the Waianae Ridge in the west, and the jagged Koolau in the east, which form a backdrop for Honolulu. These ranges divide the island into three different environments. The windward (eastern) side is lush with greenery, ferns, tropical plants, and waterfalls. On the leeward (western) side, the area between the Waianae Range and the ocean is drier, with sparse vegetation, little rainfall, and an arid landscape. Between the two mountain ranges lies the central Ewa Valley; it's moderate in temperature and vibrant with tropical plants, agricultural fields, and trees.

Hawaii, the Big Island -- By far the largest island at some 4,034 square miles (and still growing), the Big Island is twice the size of all the other islands combined. Here you'll find every type of climate zone existing in Hawaii. It's not uncommon for there to be 12 feet of snow on the two largest mountain peaks, 13,796-foot Mauna Kea and 13,680-foot Mauna Loa. These mountains are the tallest in the state; what's more, when measured from their true base on the ocean floor, they reach 32,000 feet, making them the tallest mountains in the world. The 4,077-foot Kilauea volcano has been continuously erupting since January 3, 1983, and has added more than 600 acres of new land to the Big Island since then. Just a few miles from the barely cooled barren lava lies a pristine rainforest. On the southern end of the island is an arid desert. The rest of the island contains tropical terrain; white-, black-, and even green-sand beaches; windswept grasslands; and productive farming and ranching areas growing tropical fruits, macadamia nuts, coffee, and ornamental flowers.

Maui -- When two volcanoes -- Mauna Kahalawai, a 5,277-foot ancient volcano in the West Maui Mountains, and 10,000-foot Haleakala -- flowed together a million or so years ago, the event created a "Valley Isle" with a range of climates from arid desert to tropical rainforest. This 728-square-mile island is the only place in the world where you can drive from sea level to 10,000 feet in just 38 miles, passing from tropical beaches through sugar and pineapple plantations and rolling grassy hills up past the timber line to the lunarlike surface of the top of Haleakala. In addition to 33 miles of public beaches on the south and west shores, Maui is home to the arid lands of Kihei, the swampy bogs of the West Maui Mountains, the rainforest of Hana, and the desert of Kaupo.

Molokai -- Roughly the shape and size of Manhattan, Molokai is 37 miles long and 10 miles wide, with a "thumb" protruding out of the North Shore. The North Shore begins on the west, with miles of white-sand beaches that fringe a desertlike landscape. The thumb -- the Kalaupapa Peninsula -- is cut off by a fence of cliffs, some 2,000 feet tall, that line the remainder of the north side. Molokai can be divided into two areas: the dry west end; and the rainy, tropical east and north ends. Its highest point is Mount Kamakou, at 4,970 feet.

Lanai -- This small, kidney bean-shaped island -- only 13 miles wide by 17 miles long -- rises sharply out of the ocean, with cliffs on the west side that rise to a high point of 3,370 feet. Lanai slopes down to sea level on the east and south sides. The only town, Lanai City, sits in the clouds at 1,600 feet. The island's peak is covered with Norfolk pines and is usually shrouded in clouds, while the arid beaches survive on minimal rainfall. One area in particular stands out: the Garden of the Gods, just 7 miles from Lanai City, where oddly strewn boulders lie in the amber- and ocher-colored dirt and bizarre stone formations dot the landscape. The ancient Hawaiians formed romantic legends explaining this enigma, but modern-day scientists still debate its origins.

Kauai -- This compact island, 25 miles long by 33 miles wide, has Mount Waialeale, the island's highest point at nearly 5,000 feet and the earth's wettest spot, with more than 400 inches of rain annually. Just west of Mount Waialeale is the barren landscape of Waimea Canyon, dubbed "the Grand Canyon of the Pacific" -- the result of the once 10,000-foot-tall Olokele shield volcano, which collapsed and formed a caldera (crater) some 3,600 feet deep and 14 miles across. Peaks and craters aren't Kauai's only distinctive landscape features, though: Miles of white-sand beaches rim most of the island, with majestic 2,700-foot cliffs -- the spectacular Na Pali Coast -- completing the circle. Lush tropical jungle inhabits the north side of the island, while balmy, palm tree-lined beaches are located in the south.

Sea Life

Approximately 680 species of fish are known to inhabit the waters around the Hawaiian Islands. Of those, approximately 450 species stay close to the reef and inshore areas.

Coral -- The reefs surrounding Hawaii are made up of various coral and algae. The living coral grows through sunlight that feeds a specialized alga, which in turn allows the development of the coral's calcareous skeleton. The reef, which takes thousands of years to develop, attracts and supports fish and crustaceans, which use it for food and habitat. Mother Nature can batter the reef with a strong storm or large waves, but humans -- through seemingly innocuous acts such as touching the coral -- have proven far more destructive.

The corals most frequently seen in Hawaii are hard, rocklike formations named for their familiar shapes: antler, cauliflower, finger, plate, and razor coral. Wire coral looks like a randomly bent wire growing straight out of the reef. Some coral appears soft, such as tube coral; it can be found in the ceilings of caves. Black coral, which resembles winter-bare trees or shrubs, is found at depths of more than 100 feet.

Reef Fish -- Of the approximately 450 types of reef fish here, about 27% are native to Hawaii and are found nowhere else in the world. During the millions of years it took for the islands to sprout up from the sea, ocean currents -- mainly from Southeast Asia -- carried thousands of marine animals and plants to Hawaii's reef; of those, approximately 100 species not only adapted, but also thrived.

Some species are much bigger and more plentiful than their Pacific cousins, and many developed unique characteristics. Some, like the lemon or milletseed butterflyfish, developed specialized schooling and feeding behaviors. Hawaii's native fish are often surprisingly common: You can see the saddleback wrasse, for example, on virtually any snorkeling excursion or dive in Hawaiian waters.

Game Fish -- Hawaii is known around the globe as the place for big-game fish -- marlin, swordfish, and tuna -- but its waters are also great for catching other offshore fish like mahimahi, rainbow runner, and wahoo; coastal fish like barracuda and scad; bottom fish like snappers, sea bass, and amberjack; and inshore fish like trevally and bonefish.

Six kinds of billfish are found in the offshore waters around the islands: Pacific blue marlin, black marlin, sailfish, broadbill swordfish, striped marlin, and shortbill spearfish. Hawaii billfish range in size from the 20-pound shortbill spearfish and striped marlin to the 1,805-pound Pacific blue marlin, the largest marlin ever caught with rod and reel in the world.

Tuna ranges in size from small (a pound or less) mackerel tuna used as bait (Hawaiians call them oioi) to 250-pound yellowfin ahi tuna. Other local species of tuna are bigeye, albacore, kawakawa, and skipjack.

Other types of fish, also excellent for eating, include mahimahi (also known as dolphin fish or dorado), in the 20- to 70-pound range; rainbow runner, from 15 to 30 pounds; and wahoo (ono), from 15 to 80 pounds. Shoreline fishermen are always on the lookout for trevally (the state record for a giant trevally is 191 lb.), bonefish, ladyfish, threadfin, leatherfish, and goatfish. Bottom fishermen pursue a range of snapper -- red, pink, gray, and others -- as well as sea bass (the state record is a whopping 563 lb.) and amberjack (which weigh up to 100 lb.).

Whales -- Humpback whales are the popular visitors who come to Hawaii to mate and calve every year, beginning in November and staying until spring (Apr or so), when they return to their summer home in Alaska. On every island, you can take winter whale-watching cruises that will let you observe these magnificent leviathans close up. You can also spot their signature spouts from shore as they expel water in the distance. Humpbacks can grow up to 45 feet long, so when they breach (propel their entire body out of the water) or even wave a fluke, you can see it for miles.

Humpbacks are among the biggest whales found in Hawaiian waters, but other whales -- such as pilot, sperm, false killer, melon-headed, pygmy killer, and beaked -- can be seen year-round, especially in the calm waters off the Big Island's Kona Coast. These whales usually travel in pods of 20 to 40 animals and are very social, interacting with one another on the surface.

Sharks -- Yes, there are sharks in Hawaii, but you more than likely won't see one unless you're specifically looking. About 40 different species of sharks inhabit the waters surrounding Hawaii, ranging from the totally harmless whale shark (at 60 ft., the world's largest fish), which has no teeth and is so docile that it frequently lets divers ride on its back; to the not-so-docile, infamous, and extremely uncommon great white shark. The most common sharks seen in Hawaii are white-tip reef sharks, gray reef sharks (about 5 ft. long), and black-tip reef sharks (about 6 ft. long).

Hawaii's Ecosystem Problems

Officials at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island saw a potential problem a few decades ago with people taking a few rocks home with them as souvenirs. To prevent this problem from escalating, the park rangers created a legend that the fiery volcano goddess, Pele, did not like people taking anything (rocks, chunks of lava) from her home, and bad luck would befall anyone disobeying her wishes. There used to be a display case in the park's visitor center filled with letters from people who had taken rocks from the volcano, relating stories of all the bad luck that followed. Most of the letters begged Pele's forgiveness and instructed the rangers to please return the rock to the exact location that was its original home.