Getting Around

By Plane

If you can afford it, getting around Kenya by plane is the quickest and most comfortable option. There are a few domestic airlines that link the most popular safari destinations and provide services to the coast. Some of the more upmarket safari lodges have their own airstrips and use small-seater planes operated by private air charter companies to ferry their guests in from Nairobi or Mombasa, a good alternative to long drives on dusty roads.

Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com): The national airline provides regular service to Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu on the coast and Kisumu in western Kenya. Expect to pay about $170 for a round-trip flight between Nairobi and the coast. They also operate a useful service between Nairobi and Zanzibar in Tanzania.

Air Kenya (www.airkenya.com): Air Kenya flies from Nairobi's Wilson Airport and links the more popular safari destinations. They fly to several airstrips in the Masai Mara as well as Amboseli and Samburu, and Lewa, Nanyuki, and Meru; the latter three offer access to the game ranches on the Laikipia Plateau. They also fly from Nairobi to Lamu, Malindi, and Mombasa on the coast.

Mombasa Air Safari (www.mombasaairsafari.com): Based on the coast, Mombasa Air links the coastal resorts, Amboseli, and the Masai Mara. They can organize safari and beach packages including accommodations and park entry fees.

Safarilink (www.safarilink.co.ke): Safarilink links the parks and from Nairobi touches down in the Masai Mara, Amboseli, Tsavo, Lewa Downs (for the Laikipia Plateau), Samburu, and Lamu on the coast.

By Train

The Nairobi-to-Mombasa railway is one of the world's most famous rail journeys; the 530km (880-mile) overnight trip should take 13 hours but often takes a lot longer. The train goes through Tsavo National Park, but you won't see much in the dark. First class is recommended; it's in two-bed compartments and includes dinner and breakfast in the restaurant car for around $40 per person. Second class, in a four-bed compartment, and third class, sitting, are not as comfortable as the carriages are very old. Tickets can be bought from Nairobi and Mombasa's main railway stations or can be booked through local travel agencies, and it's always advisable to make bookings in advance. Trains in the rest of the country are restricted to freight.

By Bus & Matatu

If you're on a budget, buses are the best and cheapest way to travel. Large buses and smaller minibuses known in Kenya as matatus criss-cross the country and link up the major towns. Longer routes link Nairobi and Mombasa with cities in neighboring Uganda and Tanzania. Some of the vehicles are quite old and can be driven rather recklessly, but recent legislation has curbed overcrowding, ensured each seat has a seatbelt, and that the vehicles are speed governed. The buses now are reasonably efficient and comfortable, but exercise caution around the bus stations as petty theft can be a problem.

By Car

Driving in Kenya can be dangerous because everyone does pretty much as they please, and traffic in Nairobi is especially chaotic. The roads are not always well maintained and frequent potholes are a problem, so keep your speed down and avoid driving at night because of the danger of domestic, and in some areas, wild animals on the road. Many of the roads in rural areas and in the parks and reserves are not paved, so a four-wheel-drive vehicle is essential, particularly in the wet seasons when these roads often become impassable. If you're confident that you can hold your own on Kenyan roads, you can either reserve a car in your country of origin from one of the large international agencies, or contact them once you're on the ground. Agencies with several offices in Nairobi and Mombasa include Avis (www.avis.com), Budget (www.budget.com), and Hertz (www.hertz.com).

By Taxi, Tuk-Tuk & Boda-Boda

Regular taxis are found easily on the street and outside hotels. Tuk-tuks are three-wheeled vehicles with a backseat that sits three passengers; they are used over short distances in the beach resorts along the coast. Boda-bodas (meaning "border-border," as they originated in East Africa's border towns to ferry people across no-man's land) are bicycle taxis with one seat over the back wheel. These are cheap and fun over short distances, but you need to hang on tightly. With all taxis, prices must be negotiated first before setting off.