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If you're simply overnighting and here to see the temples, it's best to stay in the village, from where you can walk to the majority of temples -- the Lalit Temple View is your best bet here. If you want to combine the temples with a safari, take a look at our recommended lodgings in Panna National Park, located approximately 45 minutes' drive from the temples; of these, Ken River Lodge is still a great option, offering a more adventurous, earthy experience but for the ultimate in safari chic, opt for the fabulous Pashan Garh: Panna's newest safari lodge is managed by the Taj and safari specialists &Beyond, the same team responsible for the exquisite Mahua Kothi and Banjaar Tola. Note: Still under discussion is the proposed creation of Khajuraho's first heritage accommodations, at the hitherto deserted 19th-century Rajgarh Palace. Situated some 25km (16 miles) from the village, at the foot of the Manijagarh Hills, this beautiful palace has exceptional views, and the end result is likely to be spectacular. You can get updated information about developments from the local tourism bureau.

In Khajuraho -- During winter, groups of tourists pass fast and furious through this dusty and otherwise non-descript little town, and hotels (some with almost 100 rooms) fill up quickly, so it's a good idea to plan ahead. A few self-billed "luxury" options are situated along Khajuraho's main road; if they're not included below, it's because they really aren't worth it. A large strip of hotels and guesthouses is dedicated to backpackers; rooms vary considerably. Economy-minded travelers should head for Hotel Surya (Jain Temple Rd.; tel. 07686/27-4145; www.hotelsuryakhajuraho.com), the best budget hotel in town: Rs 750 to Rs 1,200 buys you a clean, spartan deluxe room with a fan, attached drench shower, and a balcony, from where you can watch early risers practice yoga in the garden. A bit more expensive are the "executive" rooms, distinguished by their relative newness and their considerable size. Surya has a decent dining facility and bikes for hire, and guests can take cooking classes.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.