Take a stroll after dark through the salt air and fog of this seafaring city, admiring the Hanseatic architecture and the ever-present sense of gloomy nostalgia. Along the way, you can stop at any of the small bars of the Altstadt. One of the most visible old-fashioned nightlife options in Kiel is Kieler Bräuerei, Alter Markt 9 (tel. 0431/906290), which brews and serves, on-site, a medium-dark beer that locals compare to the better-known Düsseldorfer. Most clients come just for the beer, which starts at about 3€ ($4.80) for approximately a pint, but if you're hungry, head for the self-service cafeteria, also on-site, for heaping platters of sauerkraut, sausage, salads, and prepared meats (try the pig on a spit, rotating behind glass for your viewing pleasure), sold by the kilo. Expect to pay around 4€ to 12€ ($6.40-$19) for a platter.
Hemingway, Alter Markt (tel. 0431/96812), named in honor of Papa, is the hippest bar in town, drawing a chic young crowd nightly.
