You won't find five-star resorts in this remote part of Tanzania, but the situation is greatly improved from a few years back, when accommodations options were limited to a few basic local guesthouses. Standalone restaurants remain somewhat thin on the ground, but all the lodges mentioned here serve adequate to good meals, with seafood being something of a specialty.

There are two good midrange hotels in Kilwa Masoko. The 12-room Kilwa Seaview Resort (tel. 022/265-0250; www.kilwa.net; $90 double B&B) is an attractive beachfront lodge with accommodation in spacious en suite bungalows with tall makuti roofs, a good restaurant, and camping space ($5 per person). Farther out of town, Kilwa Dreams (tel. 0784/58-5330; www.kilwadreams.com; $60 double B&B) is a small owner-managed lodge with an isolated location offering accommodation in seven blue seafront cottages on Pwani Beach. In Mikindani, Ten Degrees South (tel. 0746/85-5833; www.tendegreessouth.com; $60 double B&B) is a pleasant waterfront lodge whose English owner-manager also runs the eco2 diving center and plans to build a new self-catering lodge on a hilltop plot overlooking the bay.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.