From the quiet village of Port Hope, 105km (65 miles) east of Toronto, the coast of Lake Ontario takes in the Bay of Quinte and Quinte's Isle. Once off the speedy main highway (Route 401), you'll discover a surprisingly tranquil region of farms and orchards that was mostly settled by United Empire Loyalists -- British sympathizers who fled the impudent new republic to the south during and after the American Revolution. This region remains off the beaten track today, except to those in the know, who come to explore attractive villages; troll for antiques; or enjoy the beaches, dunes, and waterfront activities of the area's provincial parks. Kingston, an appealing lakefront city with a regular flea-and-farmers' market, is intriguing both architecturally and historically, and is the gateway to the mighty St. Lawrence River, the Thousand Islands region, and St. Lawrence National Park.
A 2-hour drive from Ottawa and about 3 hours from Toronto (172km/107 miles southwest of Ottawa, 255km/158 miles northeast of Toronto), Kingston draws on more than 300 years of history -- a history which included a brief tenure as capital of Canada. That rich heritage lingers in grand old limestone public buildings and private residences lining downtown's streets; the city has a gracious air. Four Martello towers that once formed a string of defense works guarding the waterways along the U.S.-Canadian border still stand, and a Christopher Wren-style St. Georges Church contains a Tiffany window.
The city stands at the confluence of Lake Ontario, the Rideau Canal, and the St. Lawrence Seaway. This position makes for remarkable scenery, best viewed by taking the free ferry to Wolfe Island. Ferries leave at frequent intervals for the sparsely populated island that doubles as a quiet offshore retreat of pronounced rural character. A stroll along Kingston's waterfront, where there are many hotels and restaurants as well as marinas, pocket parks, gardens, and a maritime museum, is a must.
During the summer, Confederation Park at the harbor is the site of blues and buskers festivals, as well as frequent free concerts; in winter, you might catch a local hockey game. Three times a week, a farmers' market assembles behind City Hall in the refurbished Market Square. On Sundays, this space is transformed into a flea market with a few lingering produce stalls. It's all well worth exploring at your leisure.
