Visitor Information
Pick up information from the tourism office in Shimla (or Manali if you're doing the trip in reverse), and make detailed inquiries regarding accessibility and weather developments. Ajay Sud, an ex-army captain and adventurer who together with Rajesh Ojha founded Banjara Camps, is one of the best sources of information, tips, and assistance in the Kinnaur region. He's also a very experienced trekker and can give great advice and suggestions for treks throughout the Himalayas. He and the equally helpful Rajesh take turns manning the Sangla camp; best to reach either through the head office (1A Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016; tel. 011/2686-1397; fax 011/2685-5152; www.banjaracamps.com).
If you'd like to have a more interactive holiday, staying with (and getting to know) local folk, contact Ecosphere (Ishita Khanna; tel. 98-99492417 or 01906/22-2724; www.spitiecosphere.com). Ecosphere has pioneered homestays and grassroots community participation in the Spiti region and can help put together a really memorable trip. If you're a hiker, Aquaterra Adventures (www.aquaterra.in), one of India's leading adventure travel specialists, runs "homestay trails" -- fantastic hiking holidays through the rugged terrain with accommodations arranged in local village homes rather than tented camps -- thereby providing a glimpse into the lifestyle and culture of this region. Aquaterra also organizes a yearly descent of the Spiti-Pin rivers from Kiato to Sumdo.
Getting Around
Ultra-budget-conscious travelers undertake the journey in state buses that rely on luck as much as faith to reach their destination, while born-to-be-wild adventurers do it on the back of a motorbike -- sign up with Capt. Raaj Kumar of Shepherds Realms. For the rest, we highly recommend renting a jeep and driver -- the heftier the jeep (a Toyota Qualis or a Mahindra Scorpio), the better your chances of actually enjoying the adventure. Most of the villages can be explored on foot, and the region lends itself to trekking. For one-stop shopping, we recommend you utilize the services of Banjara Camps, which offers most of the best lodging options in the area and can arrange your entire jeep safari.
Inner Line Permits
Foreigners may not travel through the zone closest to the Tibetan border without first obtaining an Inner Line Permit from one of several government offices in Himachal. It's a fairly easy, if laborious and frustrating, process (taking anywhere from 3 hr. to a whole day); you will need your passport, three passport-size photographs, and two copies of both the main page of your passport and your visa, before heading for the SDM (Sub-Divisional Magistrate) office where you complete an application form. It's best to have this prearranged from Shimla; alternatively, the place to apply is Recong Peo -- the SDM's office is located in the Deputy Commissioner's Building near the town's bus stand, next door to the Hotel Snowview. One way of dealing with the slow pace is to apply and then collect your papers the following day after overnighting in beautiful Kalpa nearby. It's a good idea to phone ahead to ensure that the SDM office (tel. 01786/222-253; Mon-Sat 10am-5pm) is definitely open on the day you plan to apply.
