Planning a Trip

Visitor Information

Pick up information from the tourism office in Shimla (or Manali if you're doing the trip in reverse), and make detailed inquiries regarding accessibility and weather developments. Ajay Sud, an ex-army captain and adventurer who together with Rajesh Ojha founded Banjara Camps, is one of the best sources of information, tips, and assistance in the Kinnaur region. He's also a very experienced trekker and can give great advice and suggestions for treks throughout the Himalayas. He and the equally helpful Rajesh take turns manning the Sangla camp; best to reach either through the head office (1A Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016; tel. 011/2686-1397; fax 011/2685-5152; www.banjaracamps.com).

Getting Around

Ultra-budget-conscious travelers undertake the journey in state buses that rely on luck as much as faith to reach their destination, while born-to-be-wild adventurers do it on the back of a motorbike. We highly recommend you rent a jeep and driver -- the heftier the jeep (a sturdy TATA is your best bet), the better your chances of actually enjoying the adventure. Most of the villages can be explored on foot, and the region lends itself to trekking. For one-stop shopping, we highly recommend you utilize the services of Banjara Camps, which offers most of the best lodging options in the area and can arrange your entire jeep safari.

Inner Line Permits

Foreigners may not travel through the zone closest to the Tibetan border without first obtaining an Inner Line Permit from one of several government offices in Himachal. It's a fairly easy, if laborious and frustrating, process (taking anywhere from 3 hr. to a whole day); you will need your passport, three passport-size photographs, and two copies of both the main page of your passport and your visa, before heading for the SDM (Sub-Divisional Magistrate) office where you complete an application form. The best place to apply is Recong Peo -- the SDM's office is located in the Deputy Commissioner's Building near the town's bus stand, next door to the Hotel Snowview. One way of dealing with the slow pace is to apply and then collect your papers the following day after overnighting in beautiful Kalpa nearby. It's a good idea to phone ahead to ensure that the SDM office (tel. 01786/222253; Mon-Sat 10am-5pm) is open on the day you plan to apply.

The Journey

Heading east out of Shimla, National Highway 22 takes you to Narkanda (2,708m/8,600 ft.), a ski resort (Jan-Mar) where you can take in excellent views from Hatu Peak. From Narkanda, a 16km (10-mile) detour off the main highway brings you to the vast apple orchards of Thanedar, heavy with fruit in summer. (Samuel Stokes, an American who settled here in the early 1900s, is credited with bringing over and planting the region's first apple trees.) Set in the midst of this sea of apple trees is the whitewashed Banjara Camps' Orchard Retreat, its pleasant rooms decked with thick, colorful throws and attached bathrooms. It's a very comfortable place to kick back and relax and enjoy astonishingly beautiful sunsets. Prakash Thakur, host and owner of this lovely Himalayan getaway, is also the resident expert on local history and culture, and you can request a guide to take you for a fabulous 3-hour trek through the shady forest. Evenings are spent around a bonfire, where Prakash serves up anecdotes, paneer-on-a-toothpick, and spicy chicken snacks before an Indian buffet is laid out. Do taste the homemade apple juice, chutneys, and other concoctions Prakash makes from the orchard fruit (Rs 2,800/$64 double).

From Thanedar you must backtrack to Narkanda, then continue north past the commercial town of Rampur, a former princely capital. The road descends towards the raging Sutlej River, following its contours until you come upon the dusty village of Jeori. From here, a twisting, hairpin-heavy climb leads to the charming village of Sarahan (2,165m/7,000 ft., 6 hr. from Shimla), which enjoys spectacular views of the snowcapped peaks across the river. Trapped in time, Sarahan is the site of the famous pagoda-style Bhimakali Temple. You can overnight in Sarahan at the government-run Hotel Shrikhand (tel. 01782/27-4234; www.hptdc.nic.in); although it's poorly maintained, the setting is out-of-this-world, rates are low (from Rs 1,000/$23), and you'll enjoy incredible views from your room. For the best room deal, book "half the cottage" (Rs 2,000/$46), which gets you a spacious, high-ceilinged room in a separate block with a fireplace, television, and enclosed porch/sitting room. The hotel has a small bar and a restaurant. Alternatively, try Wildside: Off Beat Nature Retreat (tel. 94180-00056 or 98153-57866). At press time there was talk of this becoming a Banjara-affiliated retreat, which would make these nine rooms (Rs 2,800/$64), located in an interesting teakwood building, your best option in Sarahan.

The next morning, follow the same road back down to Jeori. At Karchham (Baspa Junction), you'll take a sharp U-turn and follow the steep dirt tracks of the Sangla Valley, through which the raging Baspa River flows. You won't find any flashy accommodations, but comfortable Banjara Camp, 8km (5 miles) beyond, is an excellent place to spend a night or two, and serves as the perfect base from which to explore the remote hamlet of Chitkul (3,450m/11,000 ft.). This Banjara Camp (see "Visitor Information" above; Rs 3,800/$86 double, includes all meals and taxes; open Apr-Oct) comprises 17 comfortable tents with attached toilets and running water, in a gorgeous open meadow (wildflowers in full bloom July-Oct) alongside the Baspa River, beneath towering Khargala Peak. Make use of the opportunity to pick the brains of Banjara founders Ajay or Rajesh for details of the best treks in the area. Both are wonderful hosts, with plenty of ideas for what you can do (besides lying in one of the inviting hammocks overlooking the river). A selection of tasty Indian and Tibetan-inspired dishes is prepared at mealtimes and served in Makuti, the thatched dining area; but there's nothing stopping you from picking up fresh fish from a local farm (the area is known for trout fishing) and having the kitchen team cook it for you.

From Sangla, you will have to double back to National "Highway" 22 to continue east towards Kinnaur's main town of Recong Peo (2,670m/8,500 ft.), where you must complete the paperwork for your Inner Line Permit, which will permit you to enter the zone closest to the Tibetan border. While waiting for the bureaucratic wheels to turn, spend the night in the village of Kalpa (2,960m/9,400 ft.), well worth a visit for its crisp, clear air and view across the valley of the majestic Kinner-Kailash massif; it's a 30-minute drive into the mountain above Recong. Hotel Kinner Villa (tel. 01786/22-6006; from Rs 1,100/$25 double) is the best place to stay, with simple, clean, and comfortable accommodations. Room no. 201 has the most exquisite view; nos. 101, 104, 202, and 207 aren't bad, either. When the hotel is quiet, you'll have to book meals in advance. Note, too, that Kalpa suffers from interminable power failures, so make sure the manager supplies you with candles.

Set out early the following day; once you pass the first Inner Line checkpoint at Jangi, you will notice dramatic changes in the landscape, as fir trees give way to rock and stone sloping up toward distant summits and down into the raging River Sutlej. The journey through Inner Line territory takes you past the off-limits turnoff for 5,500m-high (17,600-ft.) Shipki-La Pass, which heads into China. Nako Lake and its village lie farther along; beyond the turnoff for Nako, the road attains its most sinister aspect as you enter the notorious section known as the Maling Slide, heavily punctuated with precipitous drops -- an ideal place to strengthen your faith in the divine. Upon reaching the final Inner Line checkpost at Sumdo -- some 115km (71 miles) from Recong Peo and 363km (225 miles) from Shimla -- the road heads northwest into the alien landscapes of Spiti.

The Buddhist town of Tabo (some 6 hr. from Recong) is the most frequented stop in Spiti, and for good reason. We recommend you stay at Banjara Camps' Tabo Retreat doubles from Rs 2,800/$64; Apr-Oct). Architecturally, the building echoes Ladakhi style: simple, clean, comfortable, en-suite guest rooms have small, private balconies. Ask for an upper-level room facing the monastery. Omperkash Thakur is not only an efficient manager, but something of a culinary wizard, so there's plenty of carefully prepared food available. Many visitors traveling on a tight budget stay at the rest house in the monastery run by monks (tel. 01906/23-3313 or -3315; www.aarogya.com/tabo/location.html; Rs 300-Rs 550/$6.85-$13). It has simple guest rooms with attached bathrooms, all arranged around a peaceful central courtyard. You will most likely have to arrive here to arrange a room -- phones in the area are notoriously unreliable.

Not far from Tabo is the village of Dhankar, which hugs the side of a hill and offers breathtaking glimpses of the surrounding mountains and valley below -- a visit to the precariously perched monastery makes for an excellent diversion. Visit Dhankar on your way from Tabo, and then continue on to the town of Kaza. As the administrative headquarters of Spiti, Kaza offers little excitement, but unless you really want to spend an entire day on the road, it's a useful base from which to visit the beautiful, fortresslike gompa of Ki and the high-altitude village of Kibber. Plan on spending the night here at Kaza Retreat, another inn operated by the Banjara group (doubles from Rs 2,800/$64). Guest rooms are simple but have attached Western bathrooms. If you're on a tighter budget, get a room at Sakya's Abode (tel. 01906/22256 or -22254). If you're traveling from Manali, make reservations through Ritesh Sood at the Himalayan Saga travel agency, near Club House, Manali (tel. 01902/25-1848 or 98161-46191). Doubles start at Rs 500 ($11).

From Kaza, either head for Manali to catch your breath, or travel directly to Leh. North of Spiti is Lahaul. Linked to the rest of Himachal by the Rohtang Pass, dotted with villages of flat-roofed houses, fluttering prayer flags, and whitewashed chortens, Lahaul is cut off from the world by heavy snow for 8 months of the year. This mountainous region attracts adventurers to its Buddhist monasteries, mountain passes, spectacular glaciers, and high-altitude lakes. Visitors traveling by road to Leh in Ladakh, farther north, pass through Lahaul.