Tigers in the Sundarbans: India's Best-Kept Secret
One of the most enigmatic national parks in India, the Sundarbans is the largest delta in the world, with saline mud flats and thick mangrove forests teeming with wildlife, of which the Royal Bengal tiger is the most exotic inhabitant. Spanning around 4,264 sq. km (1,663 sq. miles) in India and an even larger area in neighboring Bangladesh, and surrounded by the Ganga, Brahmaputra, and Meghna rivers, it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987 but remains one of the least developed parks in Asia, as access is only via water. Although there are affordable government ferries (West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation; tel. 033/2248-7302) offering overnight trips, it is a bit of a slog just to get to the ferry itself, as it involves several switches between cabs and smaller boats, and accommodation is below par. But the elusive nature of the Sundarbans is set to change with Vivada Inland Waterways (tel. 98-3002-9359, or 99-0300-0268; www.vivada.com; sunderbancruises@vivada.com), which now offers comfortable accommodation in boats, as well as relatively easy access; packages vary, but be prepared to shell out in the region of $245 to $295 (£124-£149) for a 4-day luxury cruise. If you're lucky, you'll spot a tiger lapping at the water's edge, but even if his or her royal highness deign not to make an appearance during your stay, the mangrove forests are alive with fabulous birdlife, and you will get to visit a few far-flung villages where life continues as it has for centuries.
The Miracle of Mother Teresa & the "Pure Hearts"
Mother Teresa's Missionaries of Charity (MOC) is now headed by Sister Nirmala, a converted Brahmin. There are some 3,500 MOC sisters around the world, working in 569 centers in 120 countries, but their selfless efforts are not without controversy. Even during Mother Teresa's time, tales of pecuniary troubles and controversies over the way in which the poor and dying were being treated (and converted) beleaguered the MOC. There have always been plenty of cynics, despite the Vatican's confirmation of Mother Teresa's "miraculous" healing of a young woman's malignant tumor (the woman claims to have been cured after seeing Mother Teresa in her dreams), a move that has irritated rationalists and the medical profession. Still, in Kolkata alone, more than 50,000 destitute sick and dying are looked after by the blue-and-white-sari-wearing nuns of the MOC, a demonstration of selflessness that you might deem miraculous in itself. Adjacent to the Kali Temple is "Pure Heart," or Nirmal Hriday (251 Kalighat Rd.; tel. 033/2464-4223; Fri-Wed 8-11:30am and 3-5:30pm), the very first MOC center. Mother House (54 A.J.C. Bose Rd.; tel. 033/2249-7115; same hours as Nirmal Hriday) is the MOC headquarters, where Mother Teresa is buried. Nearby is Nirmal Shishu Bhawan (78 A.J.C. Bose Rd.; same hours as Nirmal Hriday), where some 250 orphans are cared for.
