Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- Up to 17 flights depart daily from Bangkok on Bangkok Airways (tel. 02265-5555 in Bangkok; 07742-2512 in Samui; www.bangkokair.com). Two daily flights connect with Phuket (Bangkok Airways' Phuket office is at tel. 07622-5033) and another daily connects with U-Tapao airport near Pattaya (Pattaya office tel. 03841-1965); they also have a much underpromoted direct flight to Hong Kong. From Singapore, Silk Air (tel. 02236-5301 in Bangkok; www.silkair.com) flies daily. Bangkok Airways also flies this route, up to four times each week.

Koh Samui Airport (tel. 07742-5012) boasts open-air pavilions with thatched roofs surrounded by gardens and palms. If you're staying at a larger resort, airport shuttles can be arranged when you book your room. There's also a convenient minivan service from the airport that will cost you less than haggling with taxi drivers. Book your ticket at the transportation counter upon arrival and you'll get door-to-door service for around 200B (US$5.70/£3.10). A trip to the farther tip of the island (Laem Set) will take around 45 minutes.

If you're unable to book a flight directly to the island, you can fly to Surat Thani on the mainland -- it's cheaper and not much longer -- with direct ferries to Samui (subject to delay in choppy seas).

By Ferry -- Songserm Travel (tel. 07728-7124 in Surat Thani) runs a loop from Surat Thani pier to Samui in 2 hours. Rates are: Surat-Samui 150B (US$4.30/£2.30); Samui-Koh Pha Ngan 130B (US$3.70/£1.90); Koh Pha Ngan-Koh Tao 250B (US$7.10/£3.70); Koh Tao-Chumphon 400B (US$11/£6.15). Other car ferries run from Donsak pier, which is 60 km (37 miles) south of Surat Thani. Seatran Discovery (tel. 07724-6086) offers a popular choice for comfortable interisland travel and day trips. It costs 150B (US$4.30/£2.30) from Surat to Samui, and 240B (US$6.85/£3.50) from Surat on to Koh Pha Ngan. Raja Ferries (tel. 07742-3190-1) is another car and passenger service from Donsak to either Koh Samui or Koh Pha Ngan. Lomprayah (tel. 07742-7765) links the islands by high-speed catamaran and runs some specialized trips. (There are still no connections for cars between the islands.) Both companies charge between 300B and 450B (US$8.50-US$12.60/£4.50-£6.70) per trip depending on the season.

You can buy ferry tickets at the port, although many book a bus ticket with ferry included from Bangkok, or other points in Thailand.

If you book ahead at a resort, most will arrange transport from the Samui ferry pier at Nathon to your hotel. Otherwise, songtaews make the trip to most beaches on the east coast for as little as 50B (US$1.40/75p) if they can get a packed truckload from the boat landing (and it can be very packed). Songtaews make stops along the way as required, so you can jump on or off. There are also private taxis at the pier; expect to pay at least 200B (US$5.70/£3.10) from Nathon pier to Chaweng.

Orientation

Though Koh Samui is the country's third-largest island, with a total area of 233 sq. km (90 sq. miles), its entire coastline can be toured by car or motorcycle in about 2 1/2 hours. The island's main road (Hwy. 4169), also called the "ring road," circles hilly, densely forested terrain. Koh Samui airport is in the northeast corner near Bo Phut. The ferries and express boats arrive on the west coast, in or near Nathon (depending on the boat).

Samui's best beaches are on the north and east coasts. The long, sandy east coast is home to Chaweng and Lamai beaches, both frenetic in high season. It's here you'll find the heaviest concentration of hotels and bungalows. The south coast has a few little hideaways and the west coast reveals a handful of sandy strips, but few amenities.

Nathon is where the ferries dock on the west coast, and being the island's main town and community, this is where you'll find banks, the TAT office, and the post office.

Visitor Information

The TAT Information Center is on Thawi Ratchaphakti Road just north of the main ferry terminal in Nathon (tel. 07742-0504). This office has TAT accommodation lists and information pamphlets, published annually, but often websites may be more up-to-date. Pick up free magazines such as the Samui Explorer, Samui Guide, and What's On Samui. Samui Dining Guide (www.samuidiningguide.com) lists the best restaurants on the island. You can also pick up any number of free maps with lots of adverts and info on spas, events, or fun local happenings.

Getting Around

By Songtaew -- These pickup trucks are the easiest and most efficient way to get around the island and advertise their destinations with colorful signs. They follow Route 4169, the ring road, around the island. Hail one anywhere along the highway and beach roads. To visit a site off the beaten track, ask the driver to make a detour. Most stop after sundown, after which they tour Chaweng. Night owls face steep fares (up to 300B/US$8.60/£4.60).

By Rental Car -- Renting a car is far safer than a motorcycle, though the mountainous roads here have many hairpin bends and steep gradients. Remember your defensive driving skills; they will be required to navigate around common obstacles such as motorcycles coming at you in your lane, a wandering dog, or an intoxicated truck driver with a death wish.

Budget Car Rental (tel. 07742-7188) has an office at Samui Airport. Contact Avis (tel. 084700-8161, mobile) at the airport or at the Santiburi Resort (tel. 07742-5031) and Tongsai Bay resort (tel. 07742-5454). Hertz is at the Central Samui Beach Resort (tel. 07723-0500). All offer a range of vehicles, starting as low as 1,500B (US$43/£23), and do pickup and delivery.

Local rental companies and travel agents have good deals for car rentals and they're generally sound. Bargains can come as low as 900B (US$26/£14) per day, but don't expect comprehensive insurance coverage. Read all the fine print, and if you don't have an international driver's license, make sure that your local license is acceptable.

By Motorcycle -- The roads on Samui are busy, narrow, and poorly maintained, with plenty of novice drivers (usually gung-ho foreigners). Road accidents injure or kill an inordinate number of tourists and locals each year, mostly motorcycle riders, but two wheels and a motor is still the most popular way to get around the island, so stick to the left-hand lane and go easy. A 500B (US$14/£7.70) fine is imposed on any locals not wearing a helmet, but as a well-heeled foreigner, you may well be forced to pay a much higher fee. Bring an international license from the AAA in the U.S. (or a similar fine will be imposed). Travel agencies and small operators rent motorcycles, and most resorts can make arrangements. A 100cc Honda scooter goes for as little as 150B (US$4.30/£2.30) per day, while a 250cc chopper is around 700B to 900B (US$20-US$26/£11-£14). For the best big bikes, look for Ohm Cycles on the far southern end of Chaweng (on the road heading to Lamai; tel. 07723-0701).

Fast Facts

All the major banks now have branches in every town, with their main branches in Nathon along waterfront Thawi Ratchaphakti Road. You will find numerous money-changers and ATMs across every part of the island, many with Western Union money transfer services; the latter has an office in Chaweng at the Central Samui Resort. There are post offices in Chaweng, Mae Nam, and Lamai -- all on the main Samui ring road. The main post office (tel. 07742-1013) is on Chonwithi Road in Nathon. Most resorts will also handle post for you, and stamps can be purchased in small shops in beach areas. For Internet service, there are numerous places at almost every step of the island. Try the kind folks at Multi Travel and Tour (164/3 Moo 2 Chaweng, tel. 07741-3969).

There are excellent private hospitals and 24-hour rescue and evacuation services if required. They are expensive but will deal direct with medical insurance companies. Bangkok Samui Hospital (tel. 07742-9555) and Samui International Hospital (tel. 07723-0781-2) provide top-class medical care. Bandon International Hospital (tel. 07742-5382) is also a fine facility, with English-speaking physicians who make house calls. All are located around Chaweng.

For emergencies, dial tel. 1155 or 07742-1281 for Tourist Police.