Ko Phangan

644km (399 miles) S of Bangkok to Surat Thani; 75km (46 1/2 miles) E from Surat Thani to Koh Pha Ngan

For the time being at least, Koh Pha Ngan is a more rustic alternative to busy and developed Koh Samui, attracting many backpackers in search of that well-used cliché "island paradise." However, although Koh Pha Ngan still attracts an adventurous young crowd, it is following the same model of development as Samui and Phuket -- once-basic bungalow resorts are turning into upmarket villas with air-conditioning and swimming pools. This, in turn, is forcing prices to increase.

Easily visible from Koh Samui but about two-thirds its size, with similar terrain and flora, Koh Pha Ngan boasts beautiful beaches and some secluded upmarket resorts on the farther reaches of the island -- the rugged north and west coast areas are accessible only by bumpy road, or chartered boat. The southeastern peninsula of Had Rin (also written Haad Rin) is home to the now infamous monthly Full Moon Party, a night-long beach rave that attracts thousands of revelers who pack the island to groove to every kind of dance music -- and consume (and usually later regurgitate) buckets of alcohol. These parties are no longer the hippy, trippy, love-fests of the '70s, but blatantly commercial gigs geared to squeeze as much cash out of revved-up partygoers as possible; at Full Moon, even the basic bungalows are going for double the normal rates. As a result, Leela Beach on the northern spur now pulls more punters than the noisier beach at Had Rin Nok (known as Sunrise Beach).

A word of warning: Party time is also a petty thief's paradise. Do yourself a favor and lock all your valuables in the hotel safe before you party -- as experienced thieves take the opportunity to swoop on insecure accommodations while you have fun.

Boats from Koh Samui leave at regular intervals all day and night on Full Moon nights from either Big Buddha Beach or Bophut (running from 5pm; returning between 3am and 8am). Many revelers just make a night of it, crash on the beach, and come back to Samui in the morning. At other times the small area of Had Rin is busy with young travelers. You'll find New Age crystal, trinket and T-shirt shops, vegetarian restaurants, bars playing DVDs, masseurs, cheap beer, and even cheaper bungalows just a Frisbee throw away from perfect white-sand beaches. Be careful of the rip tides here in monsoon months, and pay attention to the attendant lifeguards now present on the beach.

Don't be too put-off by Koh Pha Ngan's party reputation. Had Rin can be avoided altogether and, even during the full moon, you can find peace and quiet in any of a number of tranquil hideaways on the island, such as Thong Nai Pan to the north and Had Salad or Had Yao to the west. Koh Ma is a small island connected to Koh Pha Ngan by a sandbar on Had Mae Had beach. It's a paradise surrounded by an amazingly colorful, living reef -- making it an ideal location for snorkeling or learning to dive.

Just say "Mai!" -- When it comes to doing drugs in Thailand, remember that "Mai" means "no." Thai authorities issue harsh penalties to anyone dealing, in possession of, or using drugs. Numerous undercover drug busts are staged, not just at Full Moon Parties, but at bungalow hotels, and at pre- and post-party roadblocks. Many of these stings are setups that you'll never be able to counterprove. Dealers and police often work in cahoots and the lackadaisical Thai legal system offers you no protection or parole. Even scarier, recent reports have highlighted not just the selling of dodgy pharmaceuticals but the lethal herbal hallucinogen ton lamphong, a poisonous weed. Taking this is nothing short of suicide. Every month local hospitals repeatedly find themselves treating tourists suffering severe psychological damage after taking recreational drugs or hallucinogens -- they are the lucky ones; some revelers simply go home in a body bag.

Getting There

By Boat -- Frequent boats link the mainland towns of Chumphon or Surat Thani with the islands of Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan, or Koh Tao. From Samui's Nathon Pier, the trip to Thong Sala in Koh Pha Ngan takes 45 minutes with the Songserm Express Boat and costs 130B (US$3.70/£2). Contact them in Koh Samui (tel. 07742-0157); the Seatran vehicular ferry service is once-daily, leaves from Bang Rak, takes longer, and is only slightly cheaper.

The fastest way to Koh Pha Ngan from Samui is by the twice-daily Lomprayah Catamaran (on Samui, tel. 07742-7765-6; on Koh Pha Ngan, tel. 07723-8412; www.lomprayah.com), which leaves from Wat Na Phra Larn on Maenam. The crossing takes about 30 minutes and costs 250B (US$7.10/£3.85). Lomprayah also makes daily connections on to Koh Tao and back to the mainland at Chumphon (but not to Surat Thani). The Haad Rin Queen also runs a service four times daily from Big Buddha beach directly to Had Rin Pier that takes 30 minutes for 150B (US$4.30/£2.50). Boats can also be chartered from Petcharat Marina at Samui's Big Buddha Beach (tel. 07742-5262) or Bophut Beach (rates are greatly inflated during Full Moon Parties). You'll also find getting back to the mainland much cheaper than getting there, but exert caution between June and December as freak storms have been known to put lives at risk.

Fast Facts

The tourist police operate a small information kiosk on the north end of the ferry offices at Thong Sala pier; contact them at tel. 07742-1281 for info or tel. 1155 in an emergency. There are branches of all the high street banks with ATMs along both the main street of Thong Sala and in Had Rin. Internet service is chockablock around the island; prices are an inflated 120B (US$3.40/£1.85) per hour.

Getting Around

Jeep and motorbike rental on Koh Pha Ngan is available at most tour companies and resorts across the island (basic jeeps run from 900B [US$26/£13]; regular motorbikes run from 150B [US$4.30/£2.30] per day). The island roads are steep and treacherous -- especially over the hills near Had Rin -- so drive carefully. Many interior roads, including the trek to secluded Thong Nai Pan in the north, are hilly, muddy tracks, requiring off-road skills. (It's not just the state of the roads, but the inexperienced riders on the road, that are problematic.) Jazzed-up scooters are rented out for about 300B (US$8.60/£4.60) per day, but if you are not experienced in off-road biking, it's much safer to stick to songtaews (communal pickups) which follow the main routes and cost from 50B (US$1.40/75p); more at night, or during party season.

What To Do & See

The rugged roads of Koh Pha Ngan beg to be explored, and interior routes connect bays and small towns across unspoiled countryside -- a window into a laid-back island lifestyle that's now slowly disappearing. Wat Khao Tham (spelt differently by the retreat) is a well-known international meditation center and temple compound just north of Ban Tai; visit www.watkowtahm.org for info. Since 1988, Steve and Rosemary Weissmann (from the U.S. and Australia, respectively) have been offering intensive Theravada Buddhism-based meditation retreats. Introductory 10- to 20-day courses, as well as 3-month work retreats, are open to anyone over 20 years of age and cost 4,500B-9,000B (US$128-US$257/£69-£138). As with any retreat, conditions governing behavior apply. The temple is also open to day visitors and overlooks one of the best views on the island. For more details, check the Web or write to Wat Kow Tahm, P.O. Box 18, Koh Pha Ngan, Surat Thani, 84280.

Where to Stay

Ban Tai Beach -- Most visitors head east to nearby Ban Tai beach, close to the pier at Thong Sala -- here they find a quiet stretch of sand away from the hubbub of Had Rin but close enough to visit the party zone and readily accessible by communal taxi (songtaew). The water is unfortunately not really deep enough for swimming, but the fine sand beach is wide and most resorts now have pools set on the beachfront. There's a good number of accommodations on hand, from a few original fan bungalows to newly built complexes offering every amenity.

Had Rin -- Had Rin (aka Haad Rin) is a narrow peninsula on the island's southeastern tip filled with bungalows, busy shopping streets, funky clothes shops, and an array of restaurants between east facing Had Rin Nok (Sunrise Beach) and Had Rin Nai (Sunset Beach) on the west side. Check out the popular Rin Bay View Bungalow (no phone) or the aptly named Mellow Mountain Bungalows (no phone) for low-end choices, from 300B to 600B (US$8.60-US$17/£4.60-£9.25).

If you wish to transcend it all, tucked away on the soft white-sand beach of Leela (or Had Seekantang) beach, just 5 minutes over the hilltop, is Cocohut Village (tel. 07737-5368; www.cocohut.com). Spacious bungalows of all sizes start at 1,200B (US$34/£18); budget guesthouse rooms cater to backpackers at 600B (US$17/£9.25). Next door, Sarikantang (tel. 07737-5055-6; www.sarikantang.com) has rooms that go from basic fan and cold-shower bungalows right up to the oceanview suite; rates range from 500B to 4,200B (US$14-US$120/£8-£65). Both have beachside restaurants and pools, and are just far enough from town for a bit of peace and quiet, but are close enough to walk down and join festivities. The original Leela Bungalows (tel. 08773-75094, mobile) at the end of the beach still offers rustic bungalows, although they could do with a bit of freshening up. Lighthouse (no phone) has secluded bungalows set around the rocky cape hillside, accessible by the wooden bridge. Rates for both Leela and the Lighthouse start at 500B (US$14/£8).

Sea Breeze Bungalow (94/11 Moo 6, Had Rin; tel. 07737-5162) also offers a quiet, lofty perch high enough above town and is close enough to walk down and join the fun. Fan rooms are 500B (US$14/£8) and air-conditioned rooms are 1,000B (US$29/£15) except at Full Moon. Choose the fan rooms on the cliff for the best views; plus, the breeze makes air-conditioning unnecessary. There's a hilltop pool with a bar and a wooden boardwalk and rickety stairway providing access to Seekantang beach.

Drop Inn Club Resort and Spa (157/1-10 Had Rin tel. 07737-5444-7; www.dropinclub.com) is a relatively new resort made up of elegant Thai-style houses clustered around a pool. The air-conditioned rooms are already a bit knocked about, and as a result, the high-end prices for the penthouse (19,000B/US$543/£292) seem overblown. Another disadvantage is its location in town, nowhere near the sea, though the Full Moon beach is a short walk away.

Pariya Haad Yuan Resort (Had Yuan; tel. 07723-0414; www.pariyahaadyuan.com) claims to be the island's first boutique resort. These days it has upgraded, renamed itself, and grown more toward an exclusive little hideaway with a clutch of newly upgraded rooms and villas that cater to the better-heeled traveler. The resort lies -- as it name suggests -- on the increasingly popular and totally gorgeous Had Yuan (Yuan Beach) in the east. Being accessible only by boat has guarded it against the crowds, but it won't be long before it becomes a well-known spot. The style is modern-rustic and comes with the kind of modern amenities that would have been unheard of in this neck of the woods 10 years ago. Prices range from 2,500B to 12,000B (US$71-US$343/£38-£185). Reservations are best made through the Samui office.

West & North Coast -- The west and north coasts have white-sand beaches and are far from the monthly hippy hoe-down at Had Rin, which might be a relief for many. Resorts here are quiet and affordable, and growing in number and quality of amenities. The beautifully tranquil Laem Son freshwater lake lies close to Ao Chao Phao but reports warn that it may be contaminated -- don't take any risks. The resorts below follow a clockwise route starting at Had Son on the west.

Had Son -- Haad Son Resort (tel. 07734-9104; www.haadson.com) is a great find, on its own secluded sandy beach over from Had Yao, with good hilltop views of the sea. It's always expanding, and current renovations should be finished by 2008. Expect to find four luxury executive penthouse suites, each with stunning views and a private balcony, situated around a Jacuzzi. Just 10 minutes west of Thong Sala is Phangan Cabana (tel. 02673-0966), a 34-room joint popular thanks to high standards of both accommodation and service. It has a swimming pool and, although prices have risen, they are not yet overblown. The majority of its rooms have air conditioning at 1,400B (US$40/£22); fan rooms are 800B (US$23/£12).

Had Yao -- Had Yao or Long Beach is considered by many to be the perfect beach, a quiet but huge stretch of white sand, good for swimming, with the best sunset views and a laid-back vibe that drew the first travelers here. A couple of supermarkets and Internet cafes up on the main road provide the bulk of services you'll need; good eats can also be found along the beach -- it's big enough to play football on.

There are several bungalow resorts ranging from very basic choices, such as the rough-and-ready Ibiza (no phone), starting at 200B (US$6/£3) or the original Had Yao (no phone) and Sandy Bay Bungalows (no phone), both offering budget prices from 300B (US$8.60/£4.60).

Had Salad -- This beautiful and secluded sandy beach used to be a pirates' hideout and is good for swimming (Nov to Apr), with a reef about 150m offshore that is a well-known dive site.

Ao Chalok Lam -- This has to be one of the nicest bays set around an unspoiled, but rapidly growing, fishing village popular with trawlers. The beach is not great for swimming due to its shallow waters, but trips to other northern beaches are possible in rented boats. The newly opened Shisha Hotel (no phone) is a wholly contemporary hotel -- which travelers are quick to say looks slightly out of place in the middle of the village. There are clusters of rustic bungalows on the beaches, though, such as Chaloklum Bay Resort (68/1 Moo7 Ao Chalok Lam, tel. 07737-4147-8; www.chaloklumbay.com), which has lots of amenities, including a mini-supermarket.

Northeast/Ao Thong Nai Pan -- Two adjoining crescent-shaped beaches, 17km (10 1/2 miles) north of Had Rin, are differentiated by the suffix yai (big) and noi (small). This secluded paradise is easily reached by rented boat, or less easily by bumpy dirt track. Thong Nai Pan Yai is quieter, while Thong Nai Pan Noi has a more bohemian vibe and a small village with some cool bars and restaurants.

Where to Dine

Cheap eats of every type abound in busy Had Rin and, increasingly, even in the smaller villages here. Note that most restaurants use mobile numbers, not landlines.

For a homely meal, check out the recently opened L'Embuscade (tel. 087061-0116), a French restaurant on the Post Office road, which has a small terrace and chunky wood chairs. The French owners produce great croissants and fresh bread, and they dish up French favorites including the classic duck breast, magret de canard. Near the pier, Om Ganesh (tel. 07737-5123) serves up authentic curries and all-you-can-eat Indian thali meals, but it's very popular -- book ahead. The new Italian restaurant Kimera (tel. 084842-8718) on the beach road serves delicious pizzas. Also on the beach road in Had Rin, don't miss Emotion of Sushi (tel. 089505-6078), Bamboozle for Mexican delights (tel. 087896-4941) or Nira's Bakery (tel. 07737-5109) for breakfast.

For a special occasion, try Menu over near Ao Hin Kong on the coastal road north of Thong Sala (tel. 089289-7133 mobile; www.menu-phangan.com). In Had Yao, check out the Hideaway Bakery (no phone) for fresh breads and cakes. At night the two-story Eagle Pub (no phone), built into the rocks at the southern end of the beach, is a cool nightspot with a steakhouse and DJs playing tunes to suit every mood.