Ko Tao

About 55km (34 miles) NE of Koh Samui

Some 75 years ago, tiny Koh Tao or Turtle Island -- so-named from its outline and resident marine life -- was a penitentiary for insurgents, though few visitors these days would find any punishment in being marooned on its idyllic shores. Until lately, it has been known almost exclusively as a destination for divers. With the arrival of some chic new resorts recently, the island's appeal is far wider and, in turn, the island is rapidly going upmarket. Though dive resorts (and a social scene based around the local diving expats) do dominate, there are still lots of rustic budget choices, as well as the sort of secluded high-end hideaways that won't oblige you to book a dive.

As its popularity grows, power outages become more frequent and each high season the island suffers from a scarcity of water. Nonetheless, it is blessed with pretty offshore isles, clear turquoise waters, and pristine coral reefs. Nestled in secluded bays are numerous stunning resorts, reached by boat, or by a rollercoaster ride in a jeep or four-wheel drive. Just off the northwest corner lies a trio of islets known as Koh Nang Yuan or Koh Hang Tao (Turtle's Tail). Had Sai Ree and Ban Mae Had, both on the west coast, form the main centers where you'll find most of the budget and dive resorts. There are excellent restaurants, some fun bars, and Internet cafes along this long shore, and there are plenty of funky boutiques and trendy shops over at the Sairee Shopping Center.

As many properties here don't have land lines, you should instead head to the useful website www.kohtaoonline.com. It offers an Internet booking service as well as lots of updated info on island life, boat timetables, dive packages, and environmental concerns.

Getting There

Songserm Express (in Koh Tao; tel. 07745-6274) boats leave from Surat Thani and connect nearby islands with fares around 455B (US$13/£7): from Koh Samui 300B (US$7.30/£4.60); Koh Pha Ngan 250B (US$6.10/£3.85); plus a daily morning boat from Chumphon 450B (US$12/£5.85). Boats run subject to weather conditions in monsoon season.

Lomprayah High Speed Catamarans (tel. 07742-7765; www.lomprayah.com) also make the connection from Samui, via Koh Pha Ngan, and onto Chumphon twice daily: From Chumphon the fare is 550B (US$13/£8.45); from Koh Samui 550B (US$13/£8.45); and from Koh Pha Ngan 300B (US$7.30/£4.60). There are also night boats from Surat Thani and Chumphon with basic sleeping accommodations.

Caution: The south and western beaches can get blasted by the monsoon winds June through October when the normally transparent seas get churned up; but even during November to January (high season), there can be squalls. If you have an onward flight to catch, reserve an extra day or two, in case of delays.

Orientation & Getting Around

All boats arrive in Ban Mae Had on the west of the island. Touts from resorts and scuba operators alike line the quay. (As long as it's not high season, and you can be flexible, you can find good deals by bargaining here.) A single concrete road connects the northwestern tip from the basic CFT resort to Ban Had Sai Ree and heads south (with the island's longest beach running parallel) through Ban Mae Had to stop just short of Ao Thian Ok (Shark Bay), but elsewhere the roads are steep, loose dirt tracks, most of which are very challenging. It's possible to walk over headlands (just be mindful of the occasional dropping coconut). Pickups and motorbike taxis (prices vary from 20B-300B/60¢-US$8.55/30p-£4.40) can be found parked in busy areas, or can be stopped at the roadside. Taxi prices are not fixed, and fares tend to double after dark.

Scooters can be rented for upwards of 100B (US$2.85/£1.50) per day from most resorts; it's a good idea not to hire bikes from the cowboys around the pier. If you are looking at car hire, beware that some companies charge outrageously for damages.

More remote bays like the eastern bays of Ao Leuk, Ao Ta Note, and Ao Hin Wong, are reachable by four-wheel-drive or boat, but most high-end resorts can simply arrange pickup.

Where to Stay

Had Sai Ree has an enormously wide range of budget options available to walk-in guests, but many are booked through budget scuba packages -- popular with long-stay guests who want to get more extensive scuba certification. On the far south end of the island, one popular all-inclusive scuba resort is Big Bubble Dive Resort (tel. 07745-6669; www.bigbubble.info); rooms range from 250B to 1,300B (US$7-37/£4-£191).

AC Bungalows (tel. 07745-6197) and In Touch (tel. 07745-6514) on Had Sai Ree are popular bungalow resorts, with rooms from 800B (US$23/£12) and good restaurants and nightlife. Simple Life (tel. 07745-6142) is a dive resort with comfy bungalows with fans or air-conditioning running from 400B (US$11/£6), and a busy bar.

Where to Dine

The choices for where to dine here are endless, since most resorts have their own in-house dining facilities or fun bars. In Sai Ree Village, on the north end of Sai Ree Beach, Papa's Tapas (no phone) is the brainchild of a group of expat entrepreneurs who conjure up a constantly evolving menu in a casual candlelit, open-air pavilion. Choppers Bar and Grill (no phone) has a multilevel diner with big screen sports. Also on the north end, look for New Heaven Home Bakery (tel. 07745-6554), a popular sandwich and breakfast stop.

In Mae Had, there's La Matta (no phone) for delicious Italian pizzas and a shot of good Italian espresso (it's in Sai Ree too), Café Del Sol (no phone) for great Italian and fish and chips (amongst many other goodies), and Dirty Nelly's (no phone) down near the pier, a great place for pub grub and a pint of Irish beer.

Nightlife

Most of the action is right on Mae Had beach, where you'll find stacks of stylish retro bars and dance spots where international DJs spin their best sounds, and amazing fire jugglers perform amidst stunning sand sculptures. Whitening is a popular beachside bar perfect for cocktails and soothing sounds. For a more upscale drinking venue, Dragon Bar has an unusually upscale vibe for Ban Mae Had.

Most big bars here also have dance floors; one of the best is at Pure Beach Lounge, which has frequent parties and is a great place to sprawl on beanbags or chill out watching the sunset.

Diving

Known as one of the best diving areas in Thailand, Koh Tao is a great place to get a very affordable start with the sport or to advance on your levels. Responsible divers should check out the Koh Tao Dive Operators' Club (DOC), which imposes a uniform code of conduct and safety standards on its members (listed on http://kohtaoonline.com/ktdoc.htm) and is therefore a good way of finding the more eco-friendly and reliable dive operators. Here are some to consider:

Big Bubble at the south end of the island (tel. 07745-6669; www.bigbubble.info).

Side Trips from Koh Tao

Koh Nang Yuan consists of three small islands joined by a sandbar just off the northwest tip of Koh Tao. Because it's famed for its wonderful snorkeling, numerous companies offer day trips here. Look into unique dive-and-stay packages at Nang Yuan Resort (tel. 07745-6088; www.nangyuan.com), uniquely set over the three islands, with rooms starting as low as 1,500B (US$29/£23) to plush family suites around 14,000B (US$400/£215).

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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				Frommer's Thailand, 8th Edition Author: Charlotte Shalgosky Pub Date: April 21, 2008 Price: $22.99				Related Titles: Comrades and Strangers: Behind the Closed Doors of North Korea Frommer's Beijing Day by Day, Official U.S.O.C. Edition, 1st Edition Frommer's Beijing, 5th Edition